ianhid

Love it from a technical standpoint. Never going to buy one as I only go for cars that are out of warranty.

If you're not going for gaming, take a look at IPS panel type monitors. They're better on colour at the expense of a slightly slower refresh rate. Also consider whether the stand is adjustable for tilt and height, or whether not having that will bother you (I've got a book stuffed under one of mine to get it level). If you're mostly doing web/office stuff then a TN panel will be cheaper than an IPS panel and there's a lot more of them in your price bracket. The Dell mid range P series stuff is excellent for screen and stand quality, it's a bit more expensive though. You'd be looking at a P2314H 23" (2013 model) to get down to your price point. Chuck the model number and review into Google and you'll get a fair idea of what any recent monitor is really like.

If it's a non-return valve that's the problem wouldn't I have problems from cold as well? It's an aftermarket pump, not 100% sure exactly which one though (Adi told me, I just can't remember). The injectors are stock j-spec ones as far as I'm aware. I don't have a wideband fitted at the moment. It's on the list for things to add along with a full suspension overhaul, Syvecs and a small single...

Hi guys, I've been having trouble with hot starts since Dragonball. I've got a feeling this is probably because I don't rag the tits off it in the UK, so something that was marginal is now a bit borked. Basically, what should I be taking a look at? It starts fine cold, no problems with cranking speed either hot or cold. It just doesn't catch for a bit when hot, then splutters into life. It doesn't need to be very hot at all to have problems, 3 mins round the corner at 30 to Sainsburys was enough to cause. The car does smell like it's running a bit rich, so the two may be related. (Fouled plugs?) I haven't noticed a misfire at speed, but that doesn't necessarily mean all is good. It idles a bit above 1krpm when first started and in the first couple minutes, then drops down to the third mark above 0 (stock tt auto gauge, whatever rpm that actually is), sometimes getting right down to the point I'm worried it'll stall out. Hasn't stalled on me yet, it's come close enough for me to blip the throttle once or twice though. I'm handy enough with a multimeter and tools to check readings/pull things out if I know what I'm looking for and how tight to put them back on... I'm still running the stock ECU and stock twins, jap import car, non-vvti.

Yeah, value is only up if it sells near asking.

Cos they fitted right in

I wouldn't say ruined at all, very in your face. Loving the colour though!

Distance isn't an issue, veggie weirdness might be Get it booked but don't plan on doing anything the day after...

Yeah, fuel isn't bad, I did similar to BoGIE. If you can split it with a passenger it's almost reasonable.

Interested in the Air box to inlet Factory pipe, mine appears to have a split in it

I spent the rest day dead to the world, bloody good session on the Friday night though!

Home again. Thanks to all involved organising, that was an epic trip!

I'll be along for beers from about 5:30-6pm.

I run 235/40R18 front on 8.5 ET35 and 265/35R18 9.5 ET38 with Goodyear Eagle F1 Asy 2's all year round. No problems in the dry with a BPU auto, drop the boost a bit if it's pissing down with rain and cold (under 7c). I drive mine all year round except for snow with no real problems. You can get them for about £130-140 per rear and £120 for a front online.

Ooh, sexy beasts those are

I know a bunch of jealous old feckers as well, don't think it's is entirely age related Lovely car the 488, keep us posted on it!

Hi Dirk, welcome

Correct, tyre wall to arch clearance is a problem you have to account for. It's all down to the exact size you end up with and whether it's got a little stretch on it or not. Take a tape measure and have a play, also try putting numbers into this http://www.willtheyfit.com/ . Unless you're running a lot of power you don't need massive rear tyres, 265's handle mine at BPU just fine. I get a bit of wheel spin if I boot it but that's half the fun, I'm not drag racing so it doesn't matter. Cost is also worth thinking about. A good 265/35R18 costs ~£130 each, 315/30R18 would be ~£180 each and are not a common size, expect to pay well over £230 if you need one in a hurry. Doesn't seem like much difference but it's a bugger when you get a screw through one.

Offset is a strange measurement that makes perfect sense (eventually). It's the distance that the hub mounting face is offset from the exact centre line of the wheel rim. So it varies with rim width but not with the size of the tyre you mount to that rim or the diameter of the rim. You have to find a balance between not sticking too far out towards the arch or hitting the suspension during full range of movement on suspension.

My J-spec non-vvti only takes one o2 sensor, think it's just the UK's that need two (could be wrong...). There are non-oem sensors that will fit and are much cheaper, you need an adapter plate for them though. I changed mine myself using a reasonably fresh 2nd hand part. The threads can be properly tight and it's a little awkward to get to but not a terrible job. About 20-30 mins if not seized solid. Before doing that though, jack it up and try spinning each wheel. See if you've got a brake that's stuck. Unsticking that will massively improve things if it's the cause. I was getting 8mpg with a stuck rear, got so hot you could smell it but it was pretty bad.

Yeah, a full set fits no bother with tyres on. Had stock 17's and a larger set of 18's in mine. One in boot, two on rear seats and one rides on passenger seat. Use the seatbelts to prevent them bouncing around if you're a bit enthusiastic around corners... [ATTACH=CONFIG]211612[/ATTACH]

I get 22-24mpg on a mix of in town and dual carriageway 70ish stuff. Replaced the O2 sensor and made my money back in 3 months, it was a bit shocking before doing that. Also worth checking to see if you have a sticky brake, that does affect your ability to go anywhere with reasonable mpg...

You'd need to have side impact bars on a roll cage to use those (safely) wouldn't you?

You can generally charge a LiPo at 1C rating safely, if you can safely go higher it should be printed on the battery but may shorten the life. So for your batteries that'd be 1C = (mAh number)/1000 = 1.3 Amps at about 12.4-12.6V. They can discharge much faster than that, the problem is managing heat buildup so you don't get runaway and a fire. Note that they can catch fire even if not connected to the charger if the cell has properly overheated. Thermal runaway is fun! A little surprised the charger you've got doesn't have a built in profile for LiPos that just takes an mAh rating to set it up. http://www.instructables.com/id/Lithium-Polymer-Etiquette/step5/Balance-Charging-Setup/ (The whole of that guide is pretty useful.)

Do people take radios with them, if so, what band? I've got PMR446's (and some licensed stuff that won't be legal abroad but goes miiiiiles )