Jump to content
The mkiv Supra Owners Club

tayr

Club Members
  • Posts

    1301
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    27

Everything posted by tayr

  1. Hi All, Was surprised i couldn't find anything on how to fit the front splitter so i thought i'd write a little how to. The job took me about 12 hours to complete due to the nuts spinning which i'll explain later. If i had this tutorial it would have probably taken an hour. Tools Needed: -10mm Socket -Something to lie on -Drill and 6mm drill bit (for the new splitter) -Heat Gun or Direct Sunlight -Potentially new M6 x 20mm T Bolts (depending on condition of current hardware) M6 Hex/Flanged Nuts (depending on condition of current hardware) ** I actually bought these https://bit.ly/2MdWtQ6 as they were all i could find** -WD-40 -Jack and Axle Stands -Patience.. Lots and lots of patience. Step 1: On the underside of the splitter you will see 11 nuts. Spray all of these liberally with WD-40, as they have been on the car for some time you may find they either sheer off when trying to undo them, or the hammerhead bolt on top starts to spin round. (This is a nightmare but will happen on some) Step 2: (Optional) Remove Both Headlights - unplug the bulb connections and undo 3 x 10mm Bolts holding these in place. To get to the drivers side one you need to remove the Airbox (some air filters may give you enough space). Wiggle the headlights out and set them to one side. The reason for this (which i only found out after) is because the splitter is held on by Hammerhead bolts that have been tack welded into the top retainer. Due to age these become loose meaning that the bolt just spins widening the bracket, and getting on the other end of it to keep it from moving is a right PITA!. This gives you access to the top of the bolts on the corners easily, which will allow you to hold these still while removing the nut below (see picture). In terms of the middle, you can sort of get your hand in the right places. . Step 3: Jack the car up - this makes it easier to get underneath it and allow you more room Step 4: Using the 10mm socket, undo all 11 nuts, as before, if they start to spin, put a spanner or adjustable on the top of the nuts to try to stop them from spinning. Take off the bottom retainer and put to one side - you will need this later. (it's in 3 pieces - corners, and middle) Step 5: Start by Lowering the Splitter down, and screw the nuts on a tad just to stop the top retainer and bolts from coming up through the bottom of the bumper. I lubed up the bolts/nuts i could use, and where i couldn't i ordered new T Bolts online (link above) and slotted them in place and even oiled up the new threads. Step 6: Take your new splitter out and leave it in direct sunlight for an hour or two, or use a hot air gun to make it a little more malleable. The Polyurethane splitters are actually quite thick so trying to maneuver them round the contour of the bumper is a little tough so you need another pair of hands. Be careful not to leave the heat in one spot for too long Step 7: If you try and offer up the splitter onto the bolts now, you may find (depending on supplier) that it won't slide over the current bolts. Or the holes on the ends might not line up true. If this is the case; Take a 6mm drill bit or similar out and make the holes a little wider. Also, due to the body of the bolt, you may find it does not allow it to drop low enough into the splitter to sit flush against the bumper if you don't make the holes bigger (picture of bolt for reference). So just use the drill bit as a means to spread the hole a little bigger. But play it by ear.. Step 8: Once all bolts are correctly in place and hanging from the bumper, lift Splitter in place one nut at a time and make sure each bolt goes all the way through into the splitter so it sits flush against the bumper. Be careful not to push too hard as the whole top retainer will move with it. You can support the top if your hand can get to it. Step 9: Once you are happy that the splitter will sit flush against the bottom of the bumper (as in no gaps), place the bottom retainer onto the bottom of the splitter (by now you should have the bolt going through the top retainer, bumper, splitter and bottom retainer), then you can work your way from one end to the other securing each bolt, you may have to force the splitter a little bit, as like i said, they are quite tough. Step 10: Lower the jack, put your headlights back in (if removed), put the airbox back in (if removed) and go and have a cup of tea and admire your work. P.S. This is the first tutorial i've made so if i've missed anything please let me know.
  2. i paid £250 for one a couple weeks back - did i overpay? Probably, but did i want it - yes!
  3. Meh - hardly worth selling then. Into the loft they go ! Thanks pal
  4. Got a pair of genuine veilside skirts in white. They are pretty good condition but do have a very minor hairline crack on one side - all I can see is reps online so not sure what these are worth
  5. As per title, many thanks Need the whole unit
  6. Can anyone recommend a good bodyshop in Hampshire or surrounding areas that are used to working with cars like supras? Going to need the doors to be taken off and boot hatch for a bit of spraying but want to use somewhere trustworthy that will take care
  7. Noz, would you be able to fit the rings if i send them to you with the headlight (they were purchased from you)
  8. Also interested I don’t know if I cba to do mine
  9. The bit that goes up and down and the cable attached. Many thanks [ATTACH=CONFIG]231918[/ATTACH]
  10. was looking for one for ages, then 4 has come up at once lol
  11. Thanks for all the tips guys - i did try a clay bar before but it did nothing. In the end the suggestion of using bug and tar remover worked perfectly - got a brush and agitated it in. Got 90% of the muck off, still needs to be painted but at least it's not embarrassing to roll around in now lol
  12. I'll try and get some photos tonight mate
  13. Yeh i think thats what i'll do - just a pain lol
  14. My gosh what a PITA. 5 hours later I managed to get most of the bolts off but 4 of them just spin round and round. I gave up in the end and just put the nuts back on.. Is there an easier way of removing the stock lip to Put the V2 splitter on? If I grind them off how will I attach the new one? I tried jacking the car up but you just cannot get behind that bottom rim. If I take the bumper off does it give you a lot more to work with? I can’t believe there is no tutorial for this
  15. Hi all Took the hideous veilside skirts off and it’s caked with grime underneath I’ve got the top of the sills being resprayed where it has rubbed the paint off. Is it just worth getting the side of the sills done at the same time? I’ve tried soap, cutting compound other various things. I did try a very small patch with meth spirits, although it took most off, I could tell rubbing anymore would take the paint off
  16. Btw I do have a High idle. Just cleaned out the ICV but no difference Edit: idle now all good
  17. Hi guys Picked up my TT6 yesterday which was imported Is it normal for the engine to rattle when turning it off? Literally for 2 seconds as the revs go to 0 Many thanks Taylor
  18. found - many thanks!
  19. tayr

    Boot hinge

    [attach=config]231811[/attach] 68801 + 68802 (side dependent)
  20. tayr

    BPU Question

    Thats interesting - i thought it was still only emissions based.. will more people just be doing a first decat only then? Leaving the second one in
  21. tayr

    BPU Question

    May seem like a stupid question but what is the best way to check the turbo condition
  22. Thanks guys, just missed out on the other one for sale ! I do have the radiator inlet already just need the box to the left
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. You might also be interested in our Guidelines, Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.