kniff_666

any issues with it coming loose? (what with the vibration and the constant temp changes) Can you use "loctite" on the bolts for the exhaust system?

Bump.

Did it by removing the manifold in the end. There was no way i could get to bolts without removing the enitre manifold. This however threw up a different problem. Being able to support / hold the cat and manifolds while removing the bolts. (You do need to use a deep socket to take the nuts off though) Managed to get one side off but did not get round to the other side due to an issue with one of the studs and nuts being cross-threaded and not actually hold the pipes together. (must have been like that since long before i had it) I will be back to continue the saga later.

thanks guys. as ever; you guys come up with the goods:d

Does anyone know the toyota part number for this stud and nut? (as above) I know i could replace it with something similar for the time being but i want to use genuine toyota parts in the long run.

Another quick question about this. My decat pipe doesn't seem to have a hole for the bottom sensor to go? What do I do with that sensor? Will it screw up the ecu if I cut it off?

Any idea on part number from mr.T?

Need some help quickly. Just taken off my exhaust manifold and 1st cat. Noticed that one of the cat to manifold bolts was not tightened all the way because it's cross threaded! Pissed off now cuz it needs sorting or my exhaust will blow. Anyone got a bolt like the one in the picture below that I can have today?

Hello, Currently mid process for removing the cats of my NA (SZ-R, 5spd) and was just wondering what the best way to remove the 1st cat was? Got the rest of the exhaust system off (from first cat back) but it strikes me as extremely difficult to reach the bolts for the cat-to-manifold. I would very much like to avoid taking the exhaust manifold off if it can be helped. If it cannot be helped then how difficult is it to remove the entire exhaust manifold. What torque is on these bolts to the block? How easy is it to get to all the bolts? (currently i have removed the heat shield etc as i am cleaning the O2 sensors) Any help would be great.

Hello guys, Just wanted to know if you guys know what the would be the optimum wheel alignment (suspension) settings for my supra. I would like the optimum setup for normal road driving (with a bit of "spirited" driving where safe) and very little tire wear. (still needs to be fun to drive) Currently i am running 18" AVS Model 7 alloys (not sure on the offsets) staggered setup. looking at toe-in, camber etc. (full 3d alignment) Any help much appreciated (saw a thread on here that was related to alignment for track days also).

Just measured mine, (5spd, 94' import SZ-R) And thread size is M12x1.25 Not sure as to whether it is the same for the 6spd but i would imagine so.

Thanks for the help guys.

Ok i get the point guys but my local toyota parts dealer is not exactly local. Rather than driving all the way to the dealer to get the £1 part while using £20 worth of fuel i was thinking of ordering over this wonderful thing called the interweb. £1 plus free postage makes more sense. Does anyone have the part number for the Diff drain gasket?

And also if someone knows the sizes of the following: - drain plug gasket for the TORSEN LSD - drain plug gasket for the manual gearbox (5 speed)

This should be a simple question to answer but i can't find the answer anywhere. What size of sump plug washer do i need for the 2jzge engine. (from a 94' SZ-R manual)? A quick response would be appreciated. (in the process of procuring one ready for a good self service this weekend)

IMO "totally dynamic" found a quick easy way to ruin the look of an aston. Now i love the lines of a stock supra (and some kitted ones) but i like the look of the astons more. And those graphics on the aston have completely ruined it. If it were me ... i would not mess with graphics on the gorgeous lines (leave that to rally cars) But ... each to their own.

Hello there, Just wondering if it really is as easy as disconnecting the battery for about 10mins to reset the ECU? I have read the threads about this but it seems that you then have to leave it idling for a few minutes to "re-configure" itself. I then drive it so it can do this further. Is this correct? And is it really that simple? Will it not mess up something else (e.g. my alarm)? The last and most important question is this ... is it really worth doing this if i am changing/cleaning the O2 sensors? Any help would be much appreciated.

I know the kind "soul" that the people that damage cars are ...

Its like people are blind to the front of the supra. I just don't get it.

had this happen to me a few weeks back at Leicester forest east services. Dint in the front passenger wing and scrapes all the way around it including the front bumper. Don't suppose you had a nice note left saying sorry with a contact number and insurance details? ... no ... me neither! I fucking hate it when people mess up shit that doesn't belong to them. The only thing that you can wish for is that Karma comes back to the person that did it.

These really set the car off. it is strange because i would not have put bronze wheels on a silver car ... but it works well. I was thinking of getting mine re-done in dark bronze, but my car is black.

Awesome info guys. It never fails to amaze me that no matter what random questions you ask on here there is always someone, sometimes many people, that can and will assist. If only the real world was more like this forum. All would be well in the world!

Hello guys, I have seen the old old thread about the O2 sensors in the FAQ bit but it has not been updated for a long time (i think). Just wondering where would be the best place to buy these from? ANd how much roughly will they cost? Mainly, i have lost a bit of power over the last few months because i have been using as a daily driver and i am pretty sure that these need replacing. (I also have an issue with the exhaust blowing slightly after the 1st cat that is not helping ... i have sorted new gasket and bolts for this but just need to fit) Any help greatly appreciated. (Don't fancy going to Mr. T and paying about £100 a pop!)

Cheers for the help guys. Its been extremely useful in improving my terrible electronic technical knowledge. I do not want to change the odo specifically because, like you say, it feels shabby. I do not think that the original speedo face is below but i need to check.

Thanks for the help guys, BUT ... electronics are not my strong point (by any stretch of the imagination) So i have the actual speedo clock that reads in MPH (only up to ~110mph tho). Now i need to change the speedo to one that goes above ~110mph so i know how fast i am going when delimited. Therefore does this mean that i can still use one of these converters? Plus, if i use one of these units does it then alter the odo and trip to be in miles? I do not want it to do this as i would much rather keep all distances in KM (rather than remembering @ what KM it was converted to miles etc. PITA IMO)