thomo8568

Double post.

Hi mate. I used to have two wizzard of nos kits fitted to my car when it was NA. 1 kit was direct port, controller, bottom heater with a 100shot the other one was a single point kit no controller no heater. Both had 11lb bottles Think it was around £60 to fill an 11lb bottle. But they don't last that longe if your running a decent amount. They are easy to install and set up, if your any good with basic tools. If your any good with doing work on your car yourself. Then it would work out cheaper fitting a 1jzgte

I guess its all down to personal preference. I personally would rather spend money on turboing a car I know than buying a car I know nothing about. But I like the time working on my car as much as driving it if not more. Also fitting the 1jzgte in my NA worked out at less than £200 so was cost effective for me.

If your looking at if from a financial point of view. Then no conversion or modification is really worth doing. I'm sure most of us on here have spent more on are cars than we could sell them for. If your not after big power, can wait for second hand parts to come up forsale and are able to do most the work yourself. Then it can work out cost effective.

If you can do most the work yourself, then I think turboing your existing car is worth it. Yes you can buy a TT for £5/6k. But your not going to really know anything about the car or an potential problems it may have. If your in no rush then a NA-t or 1jzgte can be done for less than £1k. But it will all depend on what your final goal is. I fitted a 1jzgte in mine. Got a full soarer with no Mot for £600. Fitted the engine and all good parts on to my supra. Then fitted the 2jzge in to soarer. Got soarer Mot'd and sold it for £600. So if you can wait for parts to come up then can be worth it.

I would also stick with the stock cast manifold with a first decat. The manifolds I've seen and fitted, are never a good fit. Also my car ran really rich with one fitted. Tried a set of new oem lambda's and two sets of screw in types with no real improvement.

I'm up for this depending on what weekend

Congratulations mate. My first 1jz mot is comming up soon. Hope mine goes so well. Did you have to give them any info on the engine?

I bought a soarer that had been stud for 5 years outside and had also been flooded. Cars Been running fine for over a year with no issues that would have come from not being run. As long as you check the car over properly there shouldn't be any issues.

I would think a cat would be more restrictive than a silencer. Especially a 20 year old cat. I would fully decat it, then get an exhaust company to weld you a box in to second decat. You should be able to get it done to the volume you like.

Hello. I've just been out to the car and noticed that my odometer is now reading 999000. It should be reading around 105000. I did notice the other day that only parts of the first 3 numbers were working. But I thought it was just playing up with it being so cold. I'm guessing that it needs replacing. But thought I would ask on here see if anyone knows anything to check or do to get it working again. Cheers for any help given. Ian

If your planning on doing the work yourself. The 1jzgte is a cheap option. Your not going to make as much power as the 2jzgte, but it can be done for less than £1k

Think he sold this. Is was forsale on another forum from what I remember.

Have a look here. http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/47216384/1JZ-GTE%20JZZ30%20Soarer And here http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/41678224/2JZ-GE%20JZA80%20Supra%20Engine%20Wiring Print out the parts for the body loom plugs and work out which wires go where. I've got my paper work I can send you a copy of if you PM me your email. There are a few incorrect wires listed so will need checking over. But 90% right. Couldn't say anything about the manual gearbox stuff as I'm using the auto box.

http://www.gizzmoelectronics.co.uk/pdf/MS-IBC%20Instruction%20PDF%20Ver1.01.pdf

I like the idea of the manifold. Always thought about doing a manifold like that. Surprised no one sells one like that. Got to be a cheaper option.

About £6 a pound so £66 for an 11lb bottle. That what I used to pay. It's a lot cheaper renting a large bottle and filling your own. If you have space to store it. - - - Updated - - - About £6 a pound so £66 for an 11lb bottle. That what I used to pay. It's a lot cheaper renting a large bottle and filling your own. If you have space to store it.

This is my new one. Backs now fully done so Started off my hotrod sleave.

I would say keep the kansai but think it would look better black. I would Plastidip so you can change back if you don't like it.

if you can do the work yourself, I would look in to a 1jzgte conversion. Is probably the cheapest way of going turbo. Less than £1000. If you want to go over 400bhp then it's going to be na-t or a TT transplant. All depends on your end goal.

I would keep at as is as I'm not a big fan of the oem skirts. Maybe get the black trim painted to match the car to make it look that bit lower.

Robs been over with car today. Car is boosting, but it's like it hits boost or fuel cut at around 3500 4000rpm. The revs just drop off like it's been turned off almost, then come back in once they have drop by about a 1000rpm. We've ruled out map sensor, spark plugs, coil packs and ignighter. Wiring looks to be right. Sensor for temp gauge appears to be dead and just giving a max temp reading all the time. I'm thinking that it's possibly the ecu water temp sensor that's the fault but not 100% There is also a bit of a misfire all the time. Anyone got any ideas of posable cause?

If the box is from your car them the prop should fit. I used the soarer auto box and used the supra auto prop. The wiring is something you could do yourself. I did mine without to much issues. All you need is the wiring diagrams for both engine lumes.

Hi I ordered a pair of replacement ct12a turbo chra's for my 1jz. But I have been sent one that is to big. I've been told that it's a 17208-46030 for ct20. It will cost to much to send back. So is there any way of telling if it's for a ct20? As I would like to sell it to get a bit of money back, but I don't want to sell it if it's not going to fit. Cheers Ian

The knob is just a cheap eBay item. I don't know if it made down for an auto. It screws apart, it's got a spring inside and allows for the push down to work. Seen some people who just fasten it down so it freely moves without having to press a button.