Noz

Make a billet head!

12mm thick aluminium. That'd do the job. Driving into a pedestrian with a solid crash bar would be the same. I doubt material would make a difference. Their gonna be messed up. A 12mm chocolate bar at speed would hurt lolz. Anyway. I'd not use steel. I'd at least try and copy the oem stuff. Personally. I'd modify the current one. It's the best option if you ever drove into someone and they used a re enforced bar as cause of excessive damage. My opinion anyway. As a professional mechanical engineer, with stress analysis experience, I can give you some tips on how to maintain a good design if you let me know how you need to modify it. So it's as strong as can be, even with a section cut out. You could do some simulated analysis on it, and document it. You could pay a freelance person a small fee to run comparison simulations. Purely for legal and personal purposes. It's cheap if you know the right people. Let me know if you wanted advice. You could also include the 12mm steel plates and compare the impact dynamics etc in a force simulation of solid contact etc.

Bet they didn't get a wedding invite either

You must get bored of that

Such a loser

All materials considered please.

Anyone have anything spare lying about please? Only wanting to do a small area.

I can't wait to add sounds proofing to mine. Rather weigh it down and double up

Lovely car. What was difference once sound proof added?

I know someone with a set of Face-lift inserts if you wanted to just do a simple swap. I'll post photos of glass lights with black inserts later. I've done a few. Also got photos of the pod delete. So much cleaner. I've actually a set of rings for Face-lift knocking about too. To be honest with a decent set of polishes jspecs, you'd struggle to tell the difference in photos.

It's total faff but I actually make replacement pods for the side lights. Cut the middle piece out and made it smooth so it flows better rather than painting it. I'll grab a photo if you wanted. Takes few hours to do mind. Just cut middle of the pod out. Fibreglass then smooth it. You can't fibreglass the hole. The inserts flex when lights go together. You get a crack sadly, not a strong area.

I think it's awesome!! All you ladies be moaning but tell ya what better than the days you get nailed because they're autos!

Why didn't you use the gt300 bumper?

Lovely setup. Gt300 with a diffuser. The bane of most wide arch hopefuls has been solved beautifully here! Looking forward to more photos. Interior is lovely. Really like that

How're the lights broken

Glad you're okay pal!

I'd get a proper panel beater to do it. Can be difficult making it symmetrical bro. Hit me up if you want a quote. My guy can price it for you. Its metal by the way. No fibreglass.

The L for certain is much nicer mate.

Modify the oem arches man. Can't beat that OEM curve bro. I'm probably bias of course

I'm sure you can go bigger but it's not been properly worked out just tested which is kinda cool. I know which route I'm going. Everyone has their dream build I suppose

Revving a stroker is kinda pointless. It's like building 1000hp and wanting 10k rpm on a 76mm turbo. Its just, weird. Checklist goals rather than an actual performance objective. Or driveable vehicle.

Loving the seats. Always wanted a set of recaro speeds.

This is a culture thing. Sadly don't think you'll ever change it. I also think a whp is a constant thats used to achieve a hp figure anyway. I think if you talk about power or torque delivery, but without considering the additional setup variables whp is better than bhp I'd say.

This is massively interesting. So you're saying from a stress viewpoint the torque of the combustion provides a lower force than the inertia from the rotation. Is there a certain rpm you think is usually the triggering point that pushes it beyond ultimate tensile limits.

I'd be tempted to disconnect as much as possible and see how it runs, and slowly plug things back in. Maybe run it with alternator disconnected on the return even if it throws an error. I'd also disconnect other things that could cause it but may not have necessarily been considered as disturbed from the rebuild. Like lights or any extra gauges, stereo etc.