Lude

ive got the top ones mate, in blue though. they are good quality, paint doesnt come off. (until a garage puts an air gun on them!) if you undo them by hand they stay coloured lol

i thaught this, i cleaned the port, nice and dry, then put oil proof selaer around it. when i put the pump back to the engine, it came off lol. oil is a bugger to seal. there was no need for it, as long as you put the o ring on properly its fine. i did mine last week, as had a leaky pump. i was beaming when put it all back together and it was all dry i thaught i had broken it tho as it took a few mins to bleed, remember when bleeding it, plenty of fluid in the resivour, then start the engine, make sure still plenty fluid in the res, then turn the steering wheel full lock each each side a few times, checking that the correct amount is in the resivour (there is a dipstick on the cap) it should quiet down after a few mins. you "should" bleed the pump with the both front wheels off the ground, as to releive stress from the pump

its easy mate, you can leave the pump in place no problem. the AC rad and condensor is easy to remove to, will tell you how. HOWEVER, joinging the pump and the rad, are high pressure hoses. if you remove these, air con gas will shoot out (loud lol) you will have to drain the gas 1st before undoing (the screw with the H on, above where the FMIC will go) undo the high pressure hose (10mm nut, easy) then you can remove the air con rad. to do this, all you need to do is lift the water radiator (main car rad) lift it up and towards the bulkhead, then you can remove the air con rad. again same way as you remove the water radiator, towards the bulkhead and up. PS when you drain the air con gas, dont breathe it in lol. and when you think youv drained all the gas, when you do the high pressure hose there will be a bit left and scare you lol see how easy you find that. then remove the pump. you need a female torx socket (cant remember what size, T25 i think) there are about 5 long nuts holding it to the block. then get a shorter belt, they are only £10 and can get them on ebay.

sorry i dont know that one, i paid £25 for the full gasket kit, there was only a few seals and gaskets, did think it came with a new bearing but it didnt. the little o ring workt perfect, once you have the old one off, and put the new one on you can tell the difference in them. the old one seems to shrink and doesnt seal it that well (rarther than splitting) the new one goes on easy, but then makes the suction port more difficult to put in (its not hard at all, you can just feel more re-sistance as the new o ring seals nicely) i split my whole pump and also put the new metal gasket which seperates the 2 halves of the pump together, however dont think there was any point in it. just the o ring seal should do the job. also when you do up the one 12mm nut dont overdo it, it only needs to be nipped up. if you overdue it, it lifts up the other seide of the suction port. (hard to explain)

have you got a squeeling noise? (belt) or a whining noise (pump) ive got a noise on my car, intermit squeek, i dont know if its the belt (which is only a year old) or if its the tensioner, or crank...

PMd refer to this mate, for the stock vacuums and this for the boost controller

il do a post later tonight, help you where it all goes, as per my thread youve seen, im in work now so cant go into detail. its nice to know where it all goes, you learn from it. can either tell you how to do it stock, or what you dont need up to you

dont really know what to call them lol if you want them let me know, il throw them out next week if not... all clips are there too

i know the feeling mate! its when you dont receive your item, then you look into the seller after paying. you should be fine mate, just think we need to be more carefull in future

a lot of my vacuums are not used. i only have one vacuum which runs underneath the turbo pipes. the rest are jsut blocked off/not needed, as the carbon canister is deleted, i have a electronic boost controller, stock bov is removed, so you dont need all of them. look at the earlier pages ive colour coded the vacum hard pipes to show whats what

will agree, NA just seems to make the TTs less special. NAs are so cheap now, that they become common, and people just see one and then an actual propper supra appears and its looked at the same. apart from a true car lover who knows the difference

nice work on the degreasing, it gets filthy under there, just been doing mine today

update today got a tidy camera, as my blackberry is just crap. put my custom intake together, as the stock rubber black on didnt really go 1st got some pipe from ebay, was perfect 76mm at one end, then tapers out to 85mm or so at the other end, like the stock does cut it down to size and sprayed then had some more samcos cleaned and sprayed the APexi "induction kit" put it all together and fitted de-greased parts of the engine bay, will do it all and spend more time, just did some while i had the PAS resivour & ignitor pack off before and also did the firewall (removed the sound proofing too) tomorrow going to bleed the PAS (hope ive sorted my pump leek, as stripped pump and put new gaskets in last week) then fit the intercooler pipe and done ive got the blue strut braces off and the cusco brake stopper, not suer of blue goes with it all? or shall i do it blackor yellow?

Update: had the money back today

correct mate, i had some 4mm vacuum, and some 6mm vacuum. i had 2 metres of each, more than enough. always keeps as spare as itl get used at one point in your life lol get the vacuums on ebay only a couple of quid literally

yea i think i know which ones you mean, the ones that go down to the back of the engine yea? i left those too, and just cut the hardpipe with a hacksaw, then used silicone vacuums instead and hid them away. il post an update tomo, as ive done a custom intake so happy with it, check out the thread tomo evening

ok thanks guys, ye i know 100k isnt high on these, ive had no issues with it ever since ive had the car, was just a worry i had thats all

hmm ive never thought of this, ive had the car for 2 years now. its a TT6, its in fantastic condition, and i love the car to bits, best car ive ever had, or likely to have. however im a little concerned that when the time comes to sell up, i may have difficulty? car is on 100,000 or maybe close to 110,000 miles. will i be lumbered with the car if i keep it? i only do about 5000 a year if that. but if i want to sell the car, i will want to sell it, and not have £8000 of my money tied up. i am not looking to sell now, but maybe the end of the year. any advice? comments? anyone else feel like this?

i cant see mines emailing you back. they speak japanese, and i just doubt they would bother to reply. i woudnt like to buy a ECU that isnt customly done for my car, it could have been mapped for someones car with different setup. even if similar parts were fitted to both cars, i just think its very vaugue and you dont know what its going to do. thats for me personally anyway, others may have different view on

i would go under the bonnet when engine is started, and get friend to turn the steering wheel, so you can hear where the rubbng is. if the belt isnt tight enough, it will squeel. check its not rubbing on anything like a pipe or wire, there is also a small vacuum that goes from the banjo to the throttle body, have a check to see if thats connected to as thats to do with the revs and steering (there is another recent thread in technical section on this)

i had similar sitaution, in fairlady Z TT, driving down the road, bang and pop and backfiring, then died and woudnt start. it was the crank angle sensor, the wire had simply come off it. check all connectors are secure, on everything. (dont know if or where there crank angle sensor would be on supra)

withought me reading any of the above, look underneath the throttle body theres a few take offs there, 2 are water feeds, then there is another for the PAS

what gearbox would go with it? just the century auto? http://toyotaw.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/toyota-century.jpg

some "3 inch diameter pipe, its mild steel. (76mm, perfect for the intake) i bought half a meter as i wanted to make a custome intake for stock TT, here are some offcuts, dont know if they are use to anyone or il throw them out. (thinking of others ) one is 5" long, other is 7" i sprayed one to see how came out.....