JS2004

Im running Xp - dont have a windows 7 disc and since vista didnt want to try anything other than XP! Is it alright now or is it full of problems?

I have not reformatted it recently no, I think the last time was about a year ago. Ill dig out the old disks and have another stab at reformatting - but its still definately on the cards to get a new one built up in the near future =)

How then chaps - Looking for some Tech-savvy input! I built my own pc approx 5 years ago and its now starting to show its age! Ive overclocked it and such, but lately its been hanging a lot and taking a little too long to load stuff - so its probably time for a new one. Back then I did a lot of research via similar methods to this - talking to people, reading reviews etc - but as its 5 years since ive even looked at new PC components I am a bit lost - some of the stuff in my current one can be recycled though - but im looking for decent performance upgrades. MY current specs: EVGA Nforce680i nforce SLI motherboard 2 X 2gb OCZ reaper pc2 8000 4-4-3-12 (http://www.ocztechnology.com/ocz-ddr2-pc2-8000-reaperx-hpc-4gb-edition-eol.html) OCZ Vendetta heatpipe cpu cooler (reusable) gigabyte Aurora 3d case (Reusbale) OCZ 850W gamextreme PSU (Reusable?) creative gamextreme x-fi soundcard BFG GTX280 (I think, it was a geforce 8800 overclocked edition, but developed a fault and BFG replaced it under their lifetime guarantee service) CPU is an intel cor duo e6600 3 X sata drives (7200 rpm, 320gig each) Windows is currently on a 40gig partition of one of the drives - I have been contemplating reinstalling but not sure if this would fix the issues. It is overclocked to run at around 3.2g on bootup and I have messed with the cpu, gpu and memory settings / speeds / voltages (trial and error mostly) It can run all of the games I have but its really starting to show its age a bit especially on bootup - and occasionally it will 'hang' whilst im playing eve online.. which if anyone here reading plays eve you will know how massively annoying and inconvenient it is to have the system hang when you have just been engaged by a cloaky tengu & drake in your HAM legion etc.. So what im after would be a good solid motherboard recommendation, along with a decent CPU with big overclock potential. The e6600 was relatively a low cost budget processor but it was easily clockable to 3.2g. Also id probably look at some fast memory - we are into DDR3 these days? along with a decent video card. Anyone got any good recommendations so I can start searching / comparing the various things out there?

Why..

Car is a 94 J spec - works pants internet doesnt seem to let me edit a post for some reason Checked when I got home. Battery is about 12.47v when not switched on. With engine on this goes up to 14v. That means the alternator is working as far as I can gather, which is a good thing.. just now confused as to why it started to die. Gonna check the battery later to see if its holding the charge or not.

Hey chaps Im at work hence my posting / searching methods are limited by the silly restrictions they put on the interwebs =( I am hoping its not a serious issue, but probably is given my week so far! On the way to work this morning - stuck in traffic, so crawling along. Noticed the CD skipping, then the radio lost power, almost as if battery his dying. I turned it off and noticed that as the car was running it sounded almost like it was misfiring (but i dont think it is) and the lights on the odo / dash began to pulse in tune with the engine - almost like its struggling to stay on. I hit the indicator and pulled out of the line of traffic to park up. Each time I was pressing on the brake the lights on the dash etc would dim and also the indicators are causing the dash to dim in sync with the lighting of the indicators. Does this sound like an alternator problem? It has only just started and I have not noticed it the last few times I have been out in her. Granted the trips havnt been long (10 miles or so). I use it regularly enough so its not stood for more than 2 or 3 days without being used. *IF* it is the alternator is it a tricky thing to fix? Im not too mechanically minded or skilled but I have so far managed to refurbish the starter motor contacts and change over the heater matrix (even though it did take me a week in total - mainly due to waiting for the aircon to get degassed). Help anyone? Cheers

Ballpark figure for the shocks? not really sure what theyre worth.

Playing as trakannon in low sec

Where was it that we went to after the show? I want to have a drive back out to that place, the big car park thing with the icecream!

We got many people who play this on the forums then? I have got kinda back into it, but getting annoyed at how long it takes to do guristas extravaganza as in amarr ships..

class!

condition and price of rear passenger side shock?

Wiring may be weird.. I know on mine if I take the fuse out of the drivers side headlamp and put a fuse in the passenger side, both of them light up, and vice versa.. which is a tad confusing! But you could try fiddling with the fuses. It may be that the bulb is not seated correctly in the headlight, is it flickering when you have it out of the headlight socket?

Wont these have issues at an MOT test centre? You can always drop in a repalcement set of headlights for the MOT I suppose but what would happen if you were stopped by one of those random VOSA testing things that pop up here and there?

Unfortunately I came up as uninsurable by Sky.. 29 yrs old, 2 yrs NCB, held licence for 2 yrs, 1994 NA J-spec, limited milage, huge excess 1st year with flux was £2300 - 3k mile limit £500 excess + legal and personal injury cover 2nd year with flux was £1180 - 5k mile limit £500 excess + legal and personal injury cover This year with flux its £660 - 5k mile limit £500 excess + legal and personal injury cover Also quotes from other various insurers on classic car / performance car policies ranged from £390 to £645 - however these had various limitations such as milage (3 to 5 thousand per year) and did not cover me driving other vehicles. A broker called Need2Insure were offering very good prices with those restrictions. Perhaps a change is needed for the club insurer as stated above, or some healthy competition by allowing a 2nd or 3rd club insurer to come into the fray? Seems a bit strange that a mkiv supra club insurer cannot insure a supra..

May have to explore that route, it is rather annoying lol.

Thread revival.. but did you ever figure out what this was, as I have a similar issue after having a 2nd hand shock installed - and it is indeed driving me nuts!

Going to take it back in to the garage on Friday I think, as the knocking appears to be getting worse. Would I need to do a wheel alignment after having a replacement shock installed? Really not sure if the sounds coming from the shock or something else. If the garage cant fix it ill start a separate thread and list the problems to try and find its cause.

Ill have a go at checking that. I have had a look under it, everything looks intact, but then again I dont know what to look for specifically. Would it be obvious if this was disconnected, or are there any other symptoms I would notice? It seems to handle same as always, its just this knocking / vibration sound is causing some concern.

Thread revival but would a garage installing a new shock to the rear N/S touch anything to do with subframe bolts? I had my rear N/S shock replaced with a 2nd hand shock, and now I am hearing what sounds like a knocking from that area. Ive checked that its nothing rolling around in the boot, or that anything has been dropped down the side between the boot and the rear quarter panel.. Seems to be a sound as if something is bouncing around when driving normally, turning, going over bumps etc but just from that corner.

Theres a ton of info on these forums fella, you can loose literally hours with the search button but you will learn a lot.

In the pic Coyote linked, right near Jacksos hand is the 2nd horn, usually planted on the front of the radiator as far as I can tell.

The LEDs I bought were from the http://www.component-shop.co.uk/ I believe. Much cheaper than Maplin.. I would never shop at Maplin again after seeing the price comparison. I think it worked out about 5p per LED from componentshop and £1.60 per LED from Maplin.. huge difference. As for resistors you can get them easily off ebay, as well as the Zener Diodes. Think the full kit bought for me to do it myself was about £40, which included a shedload of single core wire (can never have enough!) plenty of solder, the soldering iron / removal tool, all the resistors, LEDS and spare LEDs, diodes and the breadcake needed to build them on. It was a pain though to do so if you dont have patience let the expert do it aka Heckler

I think the one in pic 1 2 and 3 is for the horns. We have two horns. (flat one with yellow). As for the other with the plug.. not a clue, and I think mines also unplugged to be honest! I did think it was some sort of external temp sensor.. but probably way off! I know you said the horns already connected but I am sure you have one attached to the front radiator and then one on the front slam panel. Maybe your missing a horn, as I only have one (garage that put mine back together "misplaced" the second).

The thread is fine on the headlight bolts so it takes a fair bit of turning to see an adjustment in the headlights. Best to park up in front of a brick wall and mark using tape or something where the beam hits then adjust until its where you want it to be. The brake / fuel line is a known problem though, there is a sticky thread I think as underneath there is a plastic cover that acts like a £$%$ trap, and the stuff can build up and corrode through. Edit - here is the sticky link http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?140112-WARNING-15-year-old-brake-line-rotted-through Its quite a serious risk, and probably one of the main things on the checklist when either servicing or buying the supra. If the lines are corroded, best to get them fixed asap. I think the brake / fuel line in question runs underneath the passenger side / passenger rear wheel - but that thread should have all of the info you need fella.