BillyC

Just thought I'd bump this back up intead of starting a new thread as I may be getting some TT shocks to replace my NA ones. But I'm a bit unsure what way to proceed. Been reading a lot on suspension here but end up getting a bit confused with the different recommendations and experiences everyone has with the different combinations available, and the different driving styles people use them for. So just a couple of questions really, and hopefully some sound recommendations. 1. Is ther any difference between the "harshness" of the standard JSpecTT shocks and the JSpec NA ones? 2. I'm basically after a smooth ride over normal A and B roads. I've no intention of putting it round a track. And apart from the "oh go on then" moments the only fast driving is done on the motorway so extreme handling isnt a concern really. I just dont want a bone jarring journey every time theres a matchstick on the road anymore - Its stopping me enjoying the car. 3. For a comfortable ride are there any particular preferences of setup or manufacturer? I'm toying with used TT ones (50k on them I think), or just going the whole hog and getting some brand new coilovers all round. 4. I'm liking the look of the HSD ones that TRD (I think) has on his car. And he seems quite happy with them. Unfortunately the HSD Smoote isnt available for the Supe. Also looking at the Tein Superstreets as well as there seems to be a lot of people happy with them Would these be to track orientated for a daily driver over harshish roads? I dont fully understand all the pre-load/rebound rates malarky. But I'm off to read up on it. I know a lot of people will simply say to go and see CW but I (honestly) havent got the time to drive down, leave the car with him and get it all set up. My budget would stretch (and I mean stretch) to around the £700 range which would see me to the coilovers above. Or I could get the 2nd hand TT and maybe put the rest towards renewing bushes/control arms/wishbones etc. The only problem is I've no idea what would be best renewing - or if it needed doing at all, and if it would be more effective than the shocks. Any recommendations/advice welcome. Ta

Not sure about the TT as theres only one, but the connector looks different to the JSpec NA one I cleaned yesterday.

Cmon guys....someone must have one of those "ugly, rubbishy stock backboxes" in their shed that they dont need. One with a nice little tip on the end that can be removed easily and given a new lease of life. You know you want to.

Oh bugger I bloody searched on this and totally missed that thread. I ended up reading about 10 others and working out what to do from them before getting up the courage to do this. What a tit!!!! Mods, delete this pish if ya want, I'm going for a

I cleaned up the O2 sensors on my NA yesterday as I fitted a stock new exhaust the day before. The whole process is pretty simple really with the only awkward bit getting access to the bolts to physically remove them. I took a couple of pictures of how I done it if it’s any help for anyone. Sorry about the quality of some of them but the flash seems to have a life of its own. The only thing required is a socket set, a bit of patience, and an ability to say “Oh for f*cks sake” quite a lot. And a lemon. Location: The sensors are pretty easy to find as they are monitored directly off the manifold. There are two on the NA (and only one on the TT). Locations are shown below and they’re pretty distinctive so easy to identify. (I don’t know how to add pics in between lines so there all at the bottom). Simply follow the leads back to the connectors. Getting the sensors out: Its quite fiddly to get the bolts out. I gave mine a good blast of WD40 beforehand and let it soak in. Then I gave them another blast just for good measure. There’s probably a couple of ways of getting the sensors out but I chose the “not removing anything I don’t have to” method. Its would probably be easier removing the shield, and even accessing the front bolts from below – but as I’ve only got small hands it wasn’t that bad. The only real problem is that on the front ones it’s difficult to move the ratchet more than a click or two at a time which involved a lot of moaning. The rear bolts came out no problems at all, but as in the pic below the front one gave me a heart attack as I thought I’d sheared it. I’m still not sure if only the nuts were meant to come off or the whole nut and bolt assy together. The rear ones came out all together. I think someone else had said that they had this with one of the bolts as well. Be careful not to drop the gasket type things that may or may not come off when you pull out the sensor. Once they’re out: They’re pretty covered in build up really. probably years of a mixture of exhaust type fumes or whatever. I’m not sure if mine had ever been changed in 15 years – but there was a blue tape tagged on one cable which would suggest they may have been out before – so I suppose any “sensing” may have been affected by the build up on them. Anyway after rapping my knuckles a few times the f**kers deserved to be bathed in acid. So, off they went for their bath. The morning after the night before: 13 hours later they looked a little different. Fitting them back on was pretty much the same as taking them off. Bit fiddly but simple with a bit of patience. I don’t know what effect it will have on the car, but its made me feel a bit better in that I know they’re clean now, and it really is a simple job that nothing can go wrong with really. . After 15 years though it may really be about time to replace them.

Its just the actual tip I need mate, not a complete backbox. On the old Fujitsubo backox I took off the tip was actually part of the backbox. I'd have thought there would be loads of NA tips about, but seems not. I've been trying to find a tip thats a wide enough diameter (76mm) to fit over the NA backbox but cant seem to find ne anywhere. Its all becoming a bit of a struggle. I've found the part no for the NA tip from Toyota, but its bloody expensive for what it is.

Yes mate the back box was there last time I checked. I made sure it wasnt going anywhere when I put it on. I know there's a section that a tip will screw onto, but wasnt too sure what would fit on. There's a small support type bit on it. I think I'll pop up tomorrow dinnertime and see what can be done. The tip end is 77mm diameter, so I suppose I'll find something that looks and fits OK. The website is not exactly littered with them. The ones on there don't seem to go over exhausts any bigger than 60mm. If anyone has any recommendations of where I can get a decent one from by Friday - I'd rather not do Halfors if the truth be told. (Mrs is takng the car away and wants it sorted and not "looking like the exhausts been sawn off" On the plus side the O2 sensors are currently residing in half a lemon each.

that would appear to be a problem then Scott - as I dont have the tip.

Posted this in the wanted section but not sure it will cover my needs as I'd like a nice new shiney aftermarket tip if possible. Basically, just fitted a new stock NA exhaust but it came without the end tip. Ideally I'd like to be able to just pop up to Halfords and get one when I finish work (so the whole exhaust issue is done and dusted after removing and cleaning the O2 sensors tonight). The Mrs is buying a lemon as I type. I'm not sure on how to check whether these aftermarkets will fit on easily or not. Are there any special fixings needed or can it just be jubileed on? As an aside it feels, or rather sounds, great to be back to stock with what seems almost like a quiet exhaust. Removal of the knackered one revealed a very large hole at the front end of the mid section that I didnt know about. I'd taped up a much smaller hole further back. Also one of the seams was leaking. No wonder it had sounded like sh*t for a while and performance was woeful. Any help appreciated. Ta

Fitted my new stock NA exhaust yesterday, but it hasnt come with an end tip and looks pretty naff to be honest. So if anyones got one hanging around please let me know. Or even a decent recommendation for an aftermarket one to slip on. Cheers

I'm about to get my J Spec NA looked at as I think the rear shocks are gone. The ride has always been fairly hard since I got it but now its actually taking away a lot of enjoyment of a normal drive. After 15 years I've no doubt the rest of the suspension could all do with a good going over. The major problem I have is that I cant afford to splash out cash and get things all done at once. Also I dont really know what the various individual parts do specifically. What the uper/lower arms/bushes/wishbones etc actually have an effect on. So realistically, I'm going to be going for some new shocks, but would be absolutely gutted if I paid a lot out and found it didnt really improve things an awfu lot. I've thought about geting some 2nd hand stock as well. I wont ever need track day suspension, and the car is (probably) being done up for my mrs as I think I'm going to get another car. So basically it would be used for commuting and the odd long drive on the motorway. Comfort more than hard drive handling would probably be the highest priority. Does anyone have any recommendations for a nice setup for a comfortable ride? I dont know why, but I'd prefer coilovers as they seem a neater all in one solution than getting set seperat springs and dampers. However, they seem to be more for fast performance as opposed to comfort. It looks like I'll be getting the shocks first as basically its the only starting point I know really. Would it be better to take it somewhere beforehand and see what they actually recommend? The only place I think I know of up here that I feel confident about is Daltek (I think) Any advice appreciated, especially if anyone could put me right about gradually swapping out the various components needed to replenish the suspension over a period of time. The only downside I see is that it would be probably just as costly in the long run to get the components and continually keep having to put it into a garage for fitting and aligning. Apologies if this has sort of taken over the thread - I meant to just ask for suspension recommendations - and got carried away as I thought of things.

Just like to say a big thanks to Scott for rescuing my front end that had been an eyesore and an embarrasment for quite some time. He even gave it a small spray just in a matt black to make it look better and cover up the work. Top guy. Very happy with what he has done for me (and for not much more than a crate of Corona - oh, and a lime) and now feel much better about getting the old girl back into some sort of shape. Hopefully get the new stock exhaust on tomorrow,oil and filter changed and coolant change. Brake fluid change and ATF IV into the gearbox. Anyway, here's the before and after shots. Got to look for a decent (cheapish) spray of the complete bumper now around Glasgow.

Ahhh, The Peoples Club. Not been a full house all season. Oh, and until Wenger realises that winning trophies involves more than passing the ball around nicely to entertain the purists, then Arsenal will forever be also rans, who have some delightful periods of possession and play, but no-one physically able to do the "ugly football" stuff as it doesnt look nice. If he grasps that idea, and unearths another Viera, then the rest MAY flourish. If he can keep them.

thats prob quite right mate... but there are still different companies that will insure you for less. My birds been refused a quote on some sites whilst others quote between 300 and 800 with the same postcode and details.

Cant you just cancel the Elephant one now? I thought you could and you'd only pay for the months you'd used plus an admin fee for them to shut it down. Seem to recall I done this a few years ago and they even gave me a quarter years no claims. Wasnt with Elephant though. Basically just ring them and say you want to cancel your policy as youve found one that offers the same for less than half the price. Worse thay can do is say they cant do any better. Then just get the new one activated for the same time as the other runs out. I just changed mine (now with the co-op/CIS) after the initial renewal from my previous lot showed no change at all. Went on line and found it for £200 less (and Mrs done it through Quidco so got a bit of money coming back from that as well). Cancelled with previous mob and they asked me why. Told them I got it much cheaper and they said that they would match it. Told them they should have thought about offering me the lowest price beforehand before automatically renewing, so they could lap off.

I've got the exact same problem. My little lad loves playing in the car and when he came out I thought nothing about it. Noticed when turning right the indicator on the dash flashed much quicker than normal. Now I've always thought that a blown bulb affected the load and therefore charging time of a CR circut - which then drives the relay. Seems I am wrong. It just seemed like a basic electronic thing. I have also checked all the bulbs. And they are all OK although the FRHS doesnt flash, but the rest do (quickly). Off on holiday tonight so will investigate a bit more when i get back. Little fellers probably kicked hell out of the fusebox and relay.

Feel free to come and show me mate. I'll even stay awake.

So there may be hope for my front end then?

Not really done anything at all. But I've read enough on here that I'm pretty much sure I can tackle most of the things. I've just never actually got round to buying the things that I'd need to do things (axle stands/the various oils/even an oil pan etc). Just usually put it in for service and have done. I'm by no means gonna turn into Mighty mechanic overnight but I'll manage to get most of the easier stuff done if I just actually get off my arse. After fitting a new grab handle last week I'm pretty confident now ;-) Hopefully the exhaust will come off and go on like a dream but if push comes to shove then I have a mate that can hopefully travel up and he's pretty handy (although its a long way from Liverpool for him). And I'm gonna give the bolts a good soaking beforehand. No pain no gain. The shocks are a bit of a worry, but it all seems pretty much straightforward enough if you just really have a bit of belief and probably bottle to do it. The guy down the street has built a mini from scratch so hes probably got some compressors if needed. I dont really know him but I'm not shy to ask for a lend. Selling because I want to get something else really. Something a bit bigger. I might actually end up keeping the Supe and selling the Mrs' Focus so she can pose. Kids seat will go in the front no prob. Shopping in the back. That'll be up to her though. My Bomex front has a "bit" of a crack (actually its now a hole) in it that probably cant be repaired. But if I sell it to my mate then he's not too bothered about that as he's already said he'll get it fixed or get something else on. I think overall that I just want to move on from the Supe. I've had good times with it, but it has a few basically irritating cosmetic problems with it that keep pissing me off. Like the bumper. And the ciggy lighter not working. just small things but irritating to me. I think I've had my time with it and now fallen out of love with it. which is quite sad. Anyway my mate'll be getting it for cheap, and there's a couple of things need doing to make it look as good as she used too. He'll have the time and inclination to do that. I'm really only trying to sort things out on it at the moment as I dont want to sell it to him with any problems apart from bumper. After changing the oils etc then I'll put it in to be serviced/checked before I let him have it.

Done Thanks for the help guys. I've got a new stock exhaust to fit next week, and will attempt an oil and filter change at the same time. Then I'm going to try and get some second hand shocks and fit them. Well I might get the bottle to attempt it. Then I'm off to Tenerife for a week. Then I'm gonna sell her I think.

Guys, Any help with this as I intend to be doing it over lunchtime at work. At least confirmation that the fluid type is OK if only for a top up. cheers Billy

Hi, I need to top up the steering fluid on my NA as its on the lower level and the whining noise seems to be coming on intermittently when I am turning at slow speed. Then its normal again. After reading Chiefgroovers (I think) thread I think I need to sort this sooner rather than later. I've read some of the threads on here and jsut need some confirmation that I'm doing it right so I dont end up mucking it up. Firstly the discussions mention that the transmission luid s the same as the PAS Fluid. I have some Toyota ATF Type IV and just really need to put my mind at rest that this is OK to use. As for the procedure I think I've got it sorted but again, could do with some confirmation to put my mind at rest before I go ahead. Bette safe than sorry. 1) Engine off and cold. 2. Check fluid level is between the cold markers. (its not) 3. Raise the vehicle (just enough to clear wheels?) 4. Turn the wheels in both directions a couple of times. 5. Recheck the level. 6. Start the engine and run at idle. 7. Turn the wheels in both directions again a few times. 8. Lower the vehicle, and rotate wheels again a few times. 9. Put steering wheel into centre. 10. If theres no foaming or boiling over then bleeding is complete. 11. If the fluid level rises or there is foaming then repeat till its gone. That seems to be what I can find out about the procedure. Just a couple of questions. Numpty one first. I've only got the car jack so where's the best place at the front of the vehicle to jack it up. I have a bit of level ground. When do I actually top it up? Do I do it to the cold level immediately after checking the first time, and then move the wheels and start the engine. After the engines started do I still work on the cold level as it wont have warmed up? I know these have probably been asked before but getting it all nailed down in my head in one thread, before I carry it out would be a help. Cheers

Good point, well presented I'll get back to doing some work now I think

I didnt think the NA engine was non interference?

Sean, PM'd you. Just trying to confirm that it'll fit on my Jspec NA. Think it will