BillyC

Gotta laugh or I'd cry Will investigate the refurb option a little I think. But to tell the truth its taken me long enough to investigate threads on here, list things so I have a specific order of doing them, get the parts, and get the courage up to attempt basic servicing things. This "easy" pad change has knocked me back a bit now. Anyone who's done a refurb please feel free to point me in the right direction.

Thanks for the help guys. Its looking pretty much like the rear passenger side calliper is seized in the withdrawn position if I am reading the indications right. Gonna pop her up tomorrow night and find out for sure. Something along the lines of: 1. Pop wheels off 2. Open up both calipers 3. Put something in the calipers to stop the piston popping out 4. (Should I have the car started here?) 5. Get Mrs to push the brake pedal 6. Smile as the rear driver piston hopefully pushes out to contact piece in calliper. 7. Check if the rear passengers side has pushed out to contact. 8. Swear a lot I suspect. 9. Push the pistons (suspect only one) back in. 10. Redo. 11. Swear. 12. Build it back up. 13.Explain to the Mrs why callipers cost so much. 14. Tell her I want some disks as well 15. Agree to put the suspension on hold for a bit. 16. Sulk Where's NIC these days? Saturday was gonna be oil change, coolant change, was hopefully have a go at brake fluid change, put in lighter and drive off into the sunset with a lit ciggy. Think I'll just get pissed instead now.

Both pads on the drivers rear have worn equally, half a cm left on both. Both passenger side ones look as though they are new and havent worn at all. Some indication of wear but they seem as good as the replacement ones almost. Calliper pot knacked in the withdrawn position on the passenger side? Or maybe no pressure getting to it?

Cheers for that mate. I had the passenger caliper changed about 2 years ago for a second hand one when getting the brakes done as it was suggested by the guy - although I cant remember why. But he just happened to have a spare one Had pads changed by Kwikfit a while ago and they never mentioned any problems - however, that doesnt mean anything. If the passenger side one has been seized in the pots withdrawn position that would explain why the drivers side has been working extra. Would this be right? Surely I'd notice pulling or something though? I've not noticed any problems with braking, although on occasion I think I've smelt something like burning but couldnt find anything. And presumed it was just a smell from the old exhaust which had a hole in it. Can the calipers be checked with the wheels off? If I take the pads out should pumping the brakes cause the pot to fully extend? And if so, on release of the brakes should they return slightly. Got a bad feeling about this now Just got the Mrs to reluctantly/half heartedly agree to the need for some new suspension. Like she's gonna be chuffed about shelling out for calipers. Have a feeling the suspension is gonna have to be put on hold for a while. This is why I hate delving into things. Its never easy (or cheap). Changing pads SHOULD have been a simple job, but now I dont know if the brakes are gonna work at all.

Well, I won in the end But nothings simple with my car - oh no. Any ideas as to why one set of pads (drivers side) would be worn down a lot. And yet the passengers side show hardly any wear at all?

Thought that might be the case However, as much as I thought it would be a piece of piss to swap a couple of bits of metal over, I really have no idea how to bleed the brakes, and more inportantly no-one to help. I was (obviously wrongly) confident of doing the pads. I've got 2 bottles of Motul 5.1 brake fluid as I was going to replace the fluid after doing all the pads. After a good read up and making myself a lttle procedure crib sheet up. That appears to have gone out the window now. If its just the pressure from the brake fluid, which I presume it is if disconnecting the brake hose allows the pot back in, then surely unlessed they're seized in the out position, I should be able to overcome that just by applying more force. I really dont want to get into the position of pressurising myself into doing the brake fluid change - as I now I'll f*ck it up if dive in right now. Car hasnt been used at all today mate. Bugger!!!!! Off to have another pop of brute force over intelligence I think.

Need a bit of help here guys. Right, firstly disregard anything I've said about Toyota servicing costs As I said earlier, I took my pads off last night and replaced them with the same ones, as I was just trying to see how easy it was for when I picked up my pads today. Bear in mind they were well worn. So far so good. Piece of piss to remove and put back the worn ones. Wheels back on and done and dusted in half an hour. Got the new pads today. Wheels off, pads on. But can I for the life of me push the POT back in to get the callipers to fit over the new (yes thicker) new pads. Can I hell. It would appear its solidly out. I've tried the hammer handle, not even a budge. Tried the socket extension. No Joy. Even give it a few taps with the hammer and a piece of wood. The f*ker aint for going in. Should they be easy to push in? Can someone please tell me Im being too easy with it, or I've missed a step somewhere. Because at the moment I'm thinking seized callipers - and thats not a good place for me to be at the moment. Hoping its just the brake oil pressure already there - but I have my doubts. If it is the callipers, how do you take them off and try and get the pot back in? Disconnect the brake hose (I presume the oill will then drain out?) and take it somewhere sturdy to try and push back in? Any quick help appreciated as I WAS gonna wash and wax the bugger tonight. Toyota - I take back all I said

40 friggin 6 this year. 2 year old resource draining son 2 teenage resource drains from a previous era Wedding to pay for this year Suspension that I need to find money to pay for Would like a respray but cant afford it Thought I was turning into a grumpy old man - but I actually think I'm already there. Bloody kids with fast cars eh ... Pah!!!

Dont wanna take this into a different direction, but I've got the plugs I want to change. But just dont really have the bollocks to do it. The coilpack area seems a bit of a nightmare to me - and you can garuntee that i'd deffo break at least one of them along the way. This is verbatim what they sent me mate... and they gave me part prices as well but wouldnt break down (ho ho) what types. Dunno what engine oil they're using but was only £38. oil filter 7.39 sump washer 0.83 oil 38.00 air filter 23.67 fuel filter 29.23 spark plugs 60.18 front pads 58.10 rear pads 32.16 brake fluid 6.11 antifreeze (forlife) 15.27 gear oil 23.10 diff oil 15.40 Full service £282.00 includes parts, labour and VAT Spark plugs are an addition to this service, £140 inclusive. Front pads £170.00 inclusive. Rear pads £140.00 inclusive. Coolant change £53.00 inclusive. Gear oil (ATF) £41.24 inclusive. Brake fluid change £21.15 inclusive. Diff oil would be changed as part of a full service. If timing belt requires renewal add £315. Thank you XXXXXXXXX Parts Manager.

Just thought I'd revive this. I asked for a quote from Toyota a while ago for a complete service changing everything and nearly pissed myself at some of it. Front pads £170.00 inclusive. Rear pads £140.00 inclusive. Now given that the rears pads are £35 and the fronts Approx £60 I think, that makes £105 in labour for changing the rear pads. And £110 for the fronts. Now I'm as far from a mechanic as Carlos Tevez is to good looks, but I had my my rear pads off and on last night using the scissor jack (and stands) in half an hour. It really is a very easy thing to do. There's nothing that can go wrong really. Now if they work as fast as I do (which, believe me, isnt that hard really) that would appear to make the hourly rate they wanted to be £210 for doing the rears if they took the same time as me. Or am I missing something here? Strangely, as far as I can see anyway, they quoted £140 inclusive for doing the plugs: Spark plugs are an addition to this service, £140 inclusive Personally I would think the NA sparks are a nightmare to do - compared to swapping some pads over. £60 for the plugs and £80 for labour.

You better hope George1200 doesnt miss out again mate. There'll be hell to pay

Got my ciggy lighter. cheers

I'm hoping this is the case. The car started squeaking under braking last week so thought I'd better get them changed soon as anyway. Mrs has had the car away this weekend and its come back with an almost permanent squeal now. Will check pads tomorrow and see. Anyone any good recommendations for pads for normal daily driver use, and where to get them from? Thinking Toyota here.

Shag her while wearing her mothers skin. Then bin her.

Just a couple of questions on this that are probably very stupid ones...but hey ho. To remove the etching and scratches, apply a blob of ScratchX onto a clean applicator What applicator to use out of the choices? Clay coupled with a lubricant (speed detail spray) (don’t bother with the details spray. It’s expensive and as it is only a lubricant then I use my shampoo bucket. It works wonders and is cheap as chips.....)removes these imperfections and smoothes your paint for a mirror finish and that wet look you see in shows. Mould the clay to form a flat surface, using detail spray (see above) to lubricate, wipe the clay over the panel, you should feel the difference using the back of your hand. Are you recommending just to use the shampoo as the lubicant? How exactly do you lubricate it. And what do you use to apply/remove? To continue to remove any paint contaminants apply a blob of the Deep Crystal 1 paint cleaner to an applicator pad. Again, what applicator pad? Wax the car using an applicator pad to apply and a terry cloth to remove (no need for microfibre yet). Again, what applicator pad? Now remove the wax using a terry cloth. When to use the microfibre? Sorry if this is all a bit simple but I'm a bit confued as to what to use to actually apply stuff and what to use to dry/remove stuff. And the clay/lubricating stuffs a bit confusing as the detailing spray is in the list. Cheers Edit: Just been and got some stuff from Halfords on the 3 for 2 deal. I was under the impression that ALL the above would need buyig seperately, bt that doesnt appear to be the case. The detailing spray, and a microfibre comes with the clay so its not much of an issue really. The applicator (purple) comes with the wax.

Ciggy lighter back bit?

Thats some switch for a fog light I thought it was a NOS switch.

You're on a roll this week mate. Good stuff. Wish I had a. the time b. the inclination and c. the ability to do some of the stuff I see on here.

Cheers mattH Alex I've priced up a complete stock set from Toyota and the bottom line is its way way over my budget for a full set of shocks, springs and topmounts - £1200 + VAT. No doubt they'll be cheaper from elsewhere though. I think I may have to go stock second hand if people really think the Teins ect are not going to be a comfortable ride. I presumed having 16 settings would have been a fair range covering both spectrums. Just to be clear i dont expect to be riding on a bed of air, but at the moment mines criminal. As I said, my budgets unfortunately going to have to be about £700 max. I suppose I just need to see what I can get with that.

WHY HAVENT MY QUESTIONS BEEN ANSWERED YET? ITS NOT FAIR!!!!!!!!! Getting info on those KYBs is pretty difficult.

When BPUing the car surely the garage should have noticed that the second turbo wasnt coming on line? Decats, FCD, plugs and sparks as minimum should surely involve knowing exactly what boost the turbos putting out afterwards.

Lucky lucky boy.

Theres a few people on here from around Glasgow mate. Where abouts are you? Whilst being no expert by a long chalk, after owning an NA for 5 years, and going through all sorts of the usual problems along the way I could probably give you a bit of help - but there's probably a lot more people around who may be able to help you more. Theres a very good "what to look for when buting a Supra" guide on here. Most of the points are pretty self explanatory. I could certainly help with showing you some things to look at, and help you out with what to expect on a test drive, and how things operate and should fit. Could help with checking the oils etc as well as they might not be familiar to you. However things like recognising smoke that indicates valve stem problems are on the edge of my knowledge. Not too hot at the actual fixing of much stuff, but can usually identify a few common faults. Billy

Whats the flip switch on the right for?

Dont spose youve got the end tip off an NA exhaust have you?