Andy Blyth

Cheers Scooter, thanks to a post of yours from years ago I was all prepared for the job. In the end I referred to the service manual which does not mention any sealant / gasket. I have just used a drop of threadlock and torqued the new sensor to 14Nm. Took it out for a long drive and there's no oil leaking any more! (now THERE's some famous last words!)

I'm about to start this job myself this afternoon. I picked up my new pressure switch this morning and was surprised to see that it does not come with a gasket. After some searching and reading am I correct in thinking that it does not need any o-ring / dowty seal / PTFE tape?

You could risk it and use a 240V bulb connected to our mains, but there is no way of knowing what the insulation on the cable is rated to. Chances are it will work at first, but given time you risk the insulation ageing and breaking down, leading to possible arcing and potential fire. indeed!

Very Good! Nice find

Have you taken the car for a drive yet? When I flushed my coolant I found that I needed to have the engine idling above 3000 rpm for a while with the heater on full before the coolant made it to the heater matrix. I reckon if you took your car round the block a few times, keeping it in a low gear it should fix itself. Don't forget to top up when the engine has cooled down.

That is VERY cool! I could spend all day watching videos like that.

According to Here, you should be able to get an appropriate signal by tapping into the Yellow/Green wire coming from pin 1 (L terminal) of the alternator. Looking at the schematic at the end of the PDF in the linked thread, this signal should be +12V when the alternator is running (i.e. engine is turning at above cranking speed). Hope this helps

1> Seems fine to me. A long connection shouldn't matter here as there is minimal air flow. The pressure drop is negligible. The only difference it might make is the response time to a change in pressure. Don't worry though, I doubt the human eye could see the difference. 2> Shouldn't make much difference here again TBH. Since you have already wired it up, I'd just leave it as it is. If anything, the lower temperatures experienced in the cabin will increase the life expectancy of the electronics. 3> That grommet is where a clutch would go. As long as you are not planning a manual conversion in the future you'll be fine. 4> I doubt it's necassary. You're taking air from behind the main air filter. 5> Sorry, can't help you there. If you know that there is 12V on the illumination connection when your lights are on then it does point to a blown bulb. 6> These figures sound OK. You won't see any boost with the throttle just cracked open (even with the turbos boosting) as the throttle plate is blocking the boost air (Surprisingly!). If you were to put a second boost gauge in, measuring the pressure before the throttle, you would see boost building up here. Hope this helps!

Sometime around about 6 o'clock. Reg L101*** You were in the gentle cruise with the Skyline GTR and the Ferrari.

To save you buying extra, Toyota supply the necessary grease and brake line grommets in the caliper refurb kit. (well, at least they did in the J-Spec rear refurb kit)

One of my favourites... pkpA5sEKTKg

Heading North on M32 in Bristol, around 7pm tonight. Only got a quick look. I was heading south.

In the morning?

A heartwarming FAIL story (with pics!)

Hi Rich I was the random leaving a club card on your window about a month back! I thought you might have posted up asking what was the point in leaving a card on a car with club stickers on the windows!

If we think it's bad for us, it must be a nightmare on the Japanese Supra forums. I mean, there is one button in the whole car with Japanese writing. Every other one is in English! I bet every second post is along the lines of: 英国の執筆のそのボタン、それは何をするか。 それにそれのSLIP CONT OFFある。 私はすることを解決できない!

Saturday is best for me too, but can do either day really.

When the curves cross over, BHP = Torque, therefore Power / Torque = 1 Rearranging the original formula... Power / Torque = RPM / 5252 Substituting... 1 = RPM / 5252 hence, at 5252 rpm, the power and torque curves must cross. QED

Bump! It must be time for this meet soon! Especially with the type of weather we've had today.

You should be able to get them from a Toyota dealership. About £1.80 each last time I bought some. Part number is 90942-02070.

It's easy peasy when you've done it a few times. You will need a phillips head screwdriver. From memory, remove 4 screws from the very bottom of the door card, these have a hex head if you manage to mash the screw heads. There's one screw in the handle that you pull to open the door (once the screw is removed, remove the surround as well), another in the handle that you pull to close the door. After that there are 5 more fasteners to remove, 3 at the front of the door and two at the back, round the side. To remove these, gently push the centres in until you hear a click. Once they have clicked, you can just pull the fastener out. (To get these back in, push the middle bit back through the fastener until it sits just higher than the head - don't worry, it will be obvious once you see them!) That's all the fasteners out, now you need to pull the card towards you slightly and then lift the card upwards, it appears to hang from the top of the door. The first time you do this it will be pretty stiff, just give it a good shove holding the bottom corners of the card. In true Haynes manual fashion, fitting is the reverse of removal Hope this helps, after doing this about a dozen times during my stereo installation I honestly believe I could do this with my eyes closed!

If it helps...

I've used these guys in the past for Muteki nuts. Not bad.

An excellent road! (wasn't me though)