outatime

James, This will be what you are looking for.

Have you considered one of Chris Wilsons uprated SMICs? My intercooler is falling to pieces and i'm going with a CW one. They will handle hybrids which as far as I can see myself going in the near future. A properly ducted FMIC will be more effective, even with a stock front but its more expensive and has to be claimed on insurance. Interesting picture that, i've not seen a turbo that big running on a stock mount I/C... Edited to say that there is a stock i/c on ebay at the moment, its got 60k on it though. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2454197692&category=10428

My local garage failed my 1993 jap de-cat. They even phoned the MOT people to check the computer was right in failing it. I got it through with both cats in the end, just find a friendly MOT tester...

I should have added that my GY F1s came to £450ish fitted. I'm on stock 17" wheels...

I got some falkens on some alloys I bought, the nearside front split into two pieces when i was overtaking at 90mph. Suffice to say I threw all four in the bin and got some Goodyear F1s on asap, they are superb.

No motorways to see here I know what you mean, I will go ETTC eventually - best of both worlds. Besides, turbo lag is just an excuse for not being in the right gear. You can go TTC to see if it is your EGCV rattling, then just put it back in sequential if you don't like it. AFAIK, the EGCV rattle is not doing any harm. If there is something wrong, all the bits and bobs are replaceable - you shouldn't need the whole EGCV unit.

TTC will remove the EGCV from the system as it bypasses two of the VSVs. If the rattle stops, you have your culprit. There is no noticeable power increase in TTC mode, just a change in power delivery. Both Turbos come in together at about 3800rpm, its less nippy lower down but more suitable for the type of driving I do. You need to change gear more to stay on boost though... Its louder as well, more of a drone at low RPM but sounds awesome higher up. Hose TTC takes about 10 mins, have a look at this link, its quite easy but one of the hoses is a PITA to get on.

I wouldnt jump to conclusions, get it checked out by someone in the know. Put your Supra in TTC and see if it goes. Is it boosting ok?

Have a look at these Supraforums threads, might give you some pointers... 1 2

Have a listen to the EGCV, its the silver 'coke can' thing under the Turbo housing. When I steady the actuator arm going into the EGCV, the rattling goes. When I searched there was mention of reed valves (more like a frog sound) and rattling VSVs, both in the EGCV. I'll find the thread for you...

I gave my Supra some welly last night and it was still there. This morning it had gone when I first started the car, once it was hot it reappeared again. I'm 99% sure it is the actuator arm. I don't get why TTC makes it rattle if the VSV is out of the system? Is it rattling because it is no longer used or is it something to do with pressure?

Thanks Barry, doesn't sound too difficult. Thats the same method as the MKIV.com permanent TTC isn't it? I'm not sure if i want to commit to permanent TTC yet, the power delivery is more suitable for the sort of driving I do around here in the winter - open roads. In the summer with all the traffic about I suspect i'll miss the 'nippyness' of sequential. I still think ETTC is the best option...

Eyefi, Have you 'hardwired' your Supra into TTC yet? Whats involved in that? I think i will go ETTC instead, keep my options open. Mine probably depressurised as it was standing over the christmas holidays and since then i've been driving off-boost due to the shitty roads.

Cheers mate, so I get to give my Supra a thrash and fix the rattle at the same time? Bonus.

I've noticed a rattle has developed over the last week somewhere near the EGCV/Turbo housing. I realise sounds are hard to diagnose over the net, but it is like a metallic rattle when I lift off the throttle. There is no loss in boost or performance. Searching pointed me towards a faulty VSV/Actuator arm or Reed valve, as i'm running in hose TTC I doubt it is either of those... any ideas? Cheers.

Sounds intriguing... Is it anything like the CVT box that Audi are using? That came out with a lot of fanfare but I've not heard much of it since. I assume its not a faux manual 'tiptronic' system? There is some stuff about the CVT system here

Me too, I ordered one and thought it looked rubbish - way too far forwards. I found it behind a cupboard last weekend so I made it smaller, cut my hands a lot, then decided I didn't want it on anyway...

Due to me being thick, i've got left off the list: Supragal- manual TT- 1994- 51k Paul Laing- manual TT- 1994 - 61k MfS- manual TT - 1993- 59k ad500- ? - 1994- 93k Patrick_Devlin- auto TT- 1993- 90k apoc_reg- Manual NA- 1993 - 45k SteveW2 - Auto TT - 1993 - 54K Kevin Huntley - manual TT UK - 1996 51K Rob_B - Auto TT J Spec - 1996 - 80K outatime - manual TT j-spec - 1993 - 59k

Mine had done 59k, its a 93 J-spec Supragal- manual TT- 1994- 51k Paul Laing- manual TT- 1994 - 61k MfS- manual TT - 1993- 59k ad500- ? - 1994- 93k Patrick_Devlin- ?- 1993- 90k apoc_reg- Manual NA- 1993 - 45k SteveW2 - Auto TT - 1993 - 54K Kevin Huntley - manual TT UK - 1996 51K outatime - manual j-spec TT - 1993 - 59k

Hmmmmm, it looks like a Marcos thats been attacked by Max Power... Too much of everything.

Yeah, i think you might be hitting FC with the cats still in. Maybe only on cold days, but i'm sure its possible. TBH, you need an idea of what boost you are running anyway. If you aren't hitting FC, then at least you can eliminate it as the problem.

R, good point. You will also need colder plugs if you are upping the boost...

I think you are getting your 15psi and your 1.5bar mixed up mate Like soonto said, FC is around 1.0bar/15psi. In RichardH's case, surely it is the plugs - I had colder plugs fitted as a matter of course when it was de-catted.

A boost controller can only raise boost, a full decat will put you at the upper limits of the turbos. Some people have 1 cat out and use a b/c to reach the required level of boost... Bear in mind that insurance companies may refuse to insure a car with a boost controller

Unless you get a boost gauge, your only indication will be the turbos dying. Anything over 1.2bar is out of the stock turbos efficient range and the heat created is likely to kill them eventually.