outatime

I don't know, it was pretty quiet around here when we beat you in the rugger world cup I'm English and live in Wales BTW, I'll be down the pub cheering on Wales tonight - I doubt many Welsh would support the English if it was reversed...

If you lower your supra and don't change the camber, castor and toe settings the tyres will wear unevenly and the handling will be affected. You cannot just put shorter springs on and expect it to handle as well as a fully geometry checked system, everything is linked.

Cheers Terry, I saw what you said in Monkeys thread about EGTs, same goes for the AFR? I remember GavinL posting a thread about his TT running lean when hitting boost in TTC mode, the thread ended up going on about what AFR was - I just wanted clarification from some of the TTC people

Cheers Monkey, sounds fun I'm going to try it out at the weekend. Are your EGTs higher in TTC? I'm just worried that running in TTC with no added fueling/cooling at ~1.1bar might be pushing it...

Does no one look at their EGT gauge once they go TTC or something?

Like SteveW2 said, the TRL VFCC is better than the Greddy BCC etc because it doesn't remove the limit completely - it raises it to a user determined level

Just fitting lowering springs won't do your geometry much good... Chris Wilson does a full suspension set up that is very well regarded, do a search.

No, all a FCD (fuel cut defensor) does is allow the car to boost above a limit set by the ECU. On a UK car you may need a Boost Controller/Bleed Valve before you can hit fuel cut, if that is what you mean. J-specs produce more boost with a de-cat and backbox.

I did it the other way around, got the cats out first then got an aftermarket backbox. I didn't need a FCD until I got a SuperDrager 2, which means I was somewhere below 14-15psi without any cats. I think an exhaust gives a similar boost increase so you might be hitting fuel cut now its colder.

I realise there are threads related to this going on at the moment, but I can't find the info i'm after... I'm thinking of going (temporary) TTC at the weekend, has anyone got EGT/AFR readings that show that the engine runs leaner or hotter as a direct result of TTC? Cars off the road at the mo, but i'm running full decat at 1.0-1.1 bar with no additional cooling or fueling - this will be sorted soon. Cheers.

No, they are 'special'

Sour grapes? Never There is another post by Chris somewhere that says pretty much the same thing - J Specs are faster, fact fans. I've got some braided brake lines, my pedal was super mushy before and is a lot firmer now. Worth it IMHO. :EDIT: I've found what CW said in a previous post

I really wouldn't bother, i've seen pictures of a convertible Supra from the US and it looked horrible. Insurance companies won't have anything to do a rollcage AFAIK

Haha, some people like that look

Mine does that occasionally - have you checked the battery connectors are making decent contact with the terminals? I got a new battery a while ago and the terminals are too small for the clamps, if I give them a push down it works ok.

No turbos to see here

Im not sure on the technical side of things, but there will definately be a power loss of ~10%. My dads had the conversion done on his 4.3l V6 Chevy Blazer, I can feel the difference on that when I switch between LPG and Petrol. The effect on an NA Supra would be very noticeable. Also, where is the tank going? To make the range practical you would have to lose your back seats.

haha Someone mentioned her last time Pulse put that piccy up. Does she know she is famous?

Most people dont bother with the rears cos the fronts do most the braking anyway. Cant hurt to put uprated pads on though. The ABS system does its best to accomodate changes in braking bias so keeping the Jap rears should be ok. I doubt UK brakes will fit under your wheels but you never know, only way to be sure is to try them on someones Supe with UK brakes...

Far too lazy/scared to fit them myself mate. I didnt think a Supra was the best car to start tampering with, seeing as ive never done brakes before. A local garage to did it and put some race spec fluid in at the same time. I cant remember how much the pads were off the top of my head, give Chris Wilson a shout. Its well worth it though if you still have the Jap brakes...

Alright mate, welcome to the board... I am indeed having fun in my car A BOV wont do much for your Supra except make a 'pschhhhh' noise and impress children. Depends what you want really, but in terms of BHP gain a decat/exhaust would be better. Turbo timers let your turbos cool down by leaving your engine running for a while after you turn the ignition off. IMO, its worth getting one as your turbos will last longer if you cool them down properly after a thrash. For prices, look in the 'traders' section of the BBS. Do a search, there is loads of info and recommendations for first mods, bovs, turbo timers etc.

I cant remember exactly, around £50. I got them from Paul Whiffin on a group buy...

Ive got the fast road CW pads, they dont squeal and bite well from cold. The roads around here are hard on the brakes and they hold up well. Only thing is they give off a fair amount of dust, doesnt bother me though. Ive never experienced UK spec brakes so I cant compare but my brakes are a load better with the CW pads on... Also, I put some stainless steel brake lines on at the same time as the pads cos my pedal was mushy, its firmed it up quite well.

Mines a JDM Supra, so i'll have to hope that the rules you quote dont apply I thought that the rules for Jspecs were different cos there is not an exact match for the engine code - there is an 'e' at the start. Its just whether the cut off point is different...

Hmmm, more conflicting info. Im gonna try the 'you dont have an exact match for my engine code' argument and hope that dom is right about the cut off point being 1995 for imports...