paul mac

maybe the oil temp rising is down to the fact that your single is purely oil cooled whereas the stock turbos have water cooling and an oil feed so more load being placed on the oil cooling, i may be talking complete b****x, either way an oil cooler wont do any harm, if you go to a local hydraulic stockist they are about a tenth the cost of blitz hks etc, i am in the process of going single (and i'me not talking about binning the wife) so this is very interesting

it all depends on where you have the probe, if it is in the sump you will get lower readings, mine is in the sump and 80 sounds the same as mine when warm

of all the things i've bought for the supe, which probably adds up to about £5000 of stuff i have to say the RLTC is the best mod i have made, it gives you so much more confidence in pushing the car, full throttle power oversteer out of a corner is sooooooooo much fun (and your mates will think your michael shumacher)

wow that is a nise ass

you might want to just put a dab of silicone sealant on it as well or better still take it out and put a nut and bolt through it (with nyloc nut) and seal it with silicone as well

i really really hope i'me talking s***e mate but black smoke and no boost sounds like blown oil seals in the turbos to me, hope i'me wrong cos its all gonna get very expensive otherwise

had exactly the same prob with a second hand hks one which had pots at the back which i though would be zero and span but they were'nt, i think they were maybe deadband and flutter, if you are not sure you could do no worse than adjust the pots a quarter of a turn at a time remembering which way you've gone and if this has an adverse effect just turn it back to where you started, failing that i do owe you a favour as you supplied me an RLTC dat many moons ago, i could do a calibration on it at work as we have very accurate gear down to mbar, things need to be accurate at nuclear power stations if you get my drift.

as part of the piss taking gang on your first effort at posting the pic i feel obliged to now respond constructively, that dont look good to me it could be left over from some mod, i would take off the intake hose and have a look at wots underneith if you can blow through the said nipple you need to plug it up pronto

It looks real bad mate, its a square with a small box and a red cross in it, i dont know about it causing boost leaks but i'me sure it will cause confusion and embarassment

the real victim in this sad saga is the car, it had obviously been a well soughted motor until miss 3 turbos got hold of it, i think it needs reporting to the RSPCS (royal society of prevention of cruelty to supras)

I am pretty sure all the EGT gauges use K type thermocouples as i have just done a bit of research on this after finding a nice greddy gauge ont ebay for £30 ! with no probe, so as long as you get the polarity right there should not be a prob as a thermocouple is just a bog standard bit of kit FYI K type T/C colour code- blue - white + or blue - brown + or greddy weird version yellow+ orange -

try fensport for the pump about £70, belt about £20

CJ sorry i'me a bit late on this one and the funs all over but i looked at this exact conversion myself after my mate got hold of some for his 300 zx which they will fit on, the problem on the supe was the mounting holes overlapped so it would be very difficult to do with a bracket so bit the bullet and got some uk's instead, hope this puts it to bed for you

yeah my heads coming off to, oh joy of joys, sick of the valve stem seals, am going to do it when i change the turbos, still it will be a good chance to check the pistons, shimming etc and give everything a clean up, have fun

the none tension side will "flap" about a bit its quite surprising how slack the belt feels when under the correct tension, when i did my belt i checked the tensioner as per the manual and it was on the limit so i changed it to be on the safe side (about £45 i think), when i put the new one on the belt felt no tighter anyway, the thing that would worry me the most would be that you drowned the belt in oil, i dont know the compound make up of the belt but after working half my life with hydraulics i do know oil rots rubber- FACT, if i were you i'de change the belt and check the tensioner just to be on the safe side

yer nearly there feller, the first pic is the fuel pressure reg follow the vac pipe back to the intake plenum as in pic 2 and the pipe you need is back (towards the passenger compartment) and up about 20mm away, put a tee in that one and away you go, mines a none vvti but i think it should be the same

make sure they correct your power steering, mine was'nt and it was VERY twitchy at speed, oh and if you've got cruise get that raised aswell

Thing is, surely the box shouldn't let you shift down if it has the potential to damage the transmission. am only giving you my personal expirience, i really dont think auto boxs are designed with harsh downshifting in mind, they take the shock upshifting cos thats what their designed to do, thats not to say they wont do it, the box will shift at whatever speed you are going if you select it, if you dont believe me try shifting from 100 to 1st and then watch the rear view mirror for bits of the box flying down the road, like i said if you enjoy doing this i think its time to buy a manual

i had a porsche years ago i used to do this with, and yep i wrecked the box and torque converter, had to get a second mortgage to sought it, my advice would be buy a manual or just use the brakes like the rest of us

oh my god, 19's to 17s !, stock wheels !, my OEM 16's are slowly rotting in a corner in the garage and good riddance

My turbos are spooling quite loudly, I'm a bit concerned after owning an s13 and s14 200sx which were virtually silent,when i got the supe it was like listening to a jumbo jet spooling up, and they've been like that now for 3 years and still hitting 1.2 bar (regularly) if they've gone noisy all of a sudden, worry, if not just enjoy the sound, it is easy to get all hung up on noises but honestly i would'nt worry to much, if you are worried get a reputable garage to test drive it and you point out the noises when its driving

leave the car for about 20 minutes after switching the engine off as they hold the pressure for quite a while, this should avoid spillage, when re-fitting the big plastic ring put some silicone grease on it or washing up liquid (anything non petroleum based) it should then p**s on rather than having to knock s**t out of it all the way round, and be carefull with it being plastic it is easy to cross thread, i seem to remember having to do a bit of bending of the metal bracket that holds the pump as it did'nt line up

i had exactly the same problem on a 200sx, it had been fitted with flush valves on the wheels and one of the locking nuts inside the wheel had fallen off so was free to do its thing and piss me off know end inside the wheel, at speed it went due to centrifugal force holding it the inside of the wheel, it was in the garage all day and cost me about £70 in labour for a 20p nut, might be worth a look at

sorry to hear of your probs, with regard to doubling up the spring or shortening (tightening) i would think hard before doing this, i worked with hydraulics for about 17 years with the same kind of seals, when they went they would leave a groove in the shaft the replacement seal came with a shim to bring the seal away from the groove you could do this twice and then the shaft was knackered, if you grooved your crank that would not be good, the crank seal itself going must be a symptom of some underlying problem, dont blame the seal its fine, the only reasons i can think off is the crank not running true putting side load on the seal (unlikely as the engine would vibrate badly) or overpressure in the crankcase behind the seal, this to me MUST be the problem, like richy states if i were you i'de concentrate on the crank breathing

dont fully understand what your meaning by fluttering, mine makes the big pssst (technical term) noise at full throttle let off (mines an auto) and a sort of chattering or fluttering noise at medium boost say no more than about 0.4 bar boost let off, oh and welcome to the wonderfull world of supra ownership