paul mac

thanks Terry, i am used to seeing heat resistant materials as i used to work in the plastics industry where everything got ferkin hot and the diaphram looks like its made from the right stuff, time will tell

it looks like the cars are mating, i hate to think what the offspring would look like

having suffered overboost from my current old and tired wastegate i decided to replace it and took a gamble on one of the e-bay (hks copy) specials, i paid £120 all in for it, the delivery was exceptional (4 days from the states), as with everything in life you pay for what you get and this is no exception, these units are well engineered the quality of machining is good however the materials used for constuction are what let it down the actual valve, stem and seat are mild steel (in the real deal they are stainless) this is bount to have an impact on how long they last, an Aussie supplier offers a 6 month warranty so make your own mind up, the gaskets and bits you get with it are a little confusing (no instructions) and the dump tube does not look like it was made by the same people who made the wastegate as the bolt holes dont match and will require work, there is no flange for the inlet and i am having to make my own, i tried contacting ssautochrome about this but the silence was deafening i dont think they are big on communication, there is no shaft seal as stated in there ad either, i am sure the wastegate will work but for how long is another issue on the plus side you could buy 4 of these for the price of the real deal, personally i am going to wire up my alarm function on my boost gauge to something very loud and bright and wait for the day it siezes shut and trys to pop my motor at 2 bar boost and save up for the real deal, i hope this ramble is of use to someone

to fail that catastrophicly i'de be with Chris on this, if you look at the shape of the intake if something was ingested it would hit the back of the plenum and then drop down into number six at the back

mine was 0.8 bar stock in the dim distant past

summers hear carlos you might get a couple of weeks before the dreaded orange stuff appears, good effort mate, respect

anyway bollox to all this bling talk i say more puppy pictures

i'me sat here with some vino colapso but i'de hazard a guess i have'nt had as much as you carlos lol, if you really want it shiny take it to a chrome plate specialist...........quick before it rusts, and dont get any more ideas thinking Mr toyota has put lots of stainless goodies on your car cos, number 1 it weighs a ton and number 2 its expensive, if its got paint on and its metal its mild steel

on a brighter note the pups look so cute

i hate to rain on your parade Carlos but you do realise that the bit you have polished is steel which also means............ rust, sorry mate

great Chris thats just the answer i wanted to hear i really did'nt fancy taking them cams out again

cheers Chris the only thing i cant make my mind up on is re-torquing the head with regard to the ARP head studs do you have any views on this as an engine builder

no worrys mate when i get it set up i'll pop round with jon

Plan A~i really would'nt bother with anything locking mate as the toe-rags will get mad and probably twist the whole valve off leaving you with a much bigger problem than missing caps, i just stick with black plastic, their not very bling but at least there still there when you come back to the car Plan B~chain 4 attack trained alsations to the four corners of your car WITH razor blades glued to the caps

Thanks Chris as termy put it praise from the master is praise indeed and as Slick put it i hope to god my engine work is as good as the blinging, i really dont want to take that head off again

my old j-spec one dont have nothing on it if your going bpu i would make a walbro the 1st item on your list

hows it going mike have you got some more wheels yet, i took jon out for a gentle spin, nothing excesive cos the place is swarming with traffic police due to the manx TT

yeah did it all myself with bits turning up from Greece and mainly the US probably cost about £3000 including the mapping and the fluidyne, i enjoy the challenge, i've nothing against peeps who buy the parts as a kit it would be a damm sight easier, i started collecting "bits" last October to spread the cost and (all wives look away now) its a good way of hiding the true cost from the wife, when she asks tubular manifold £50, T61 turbo £50 basically everythings £50, if anyone wants advice on out (including truth alteration techniques for the missus) i would be happy to share my findings

1 word mate, cost, i've had to buy the wife a Yaris to keep her happy, the 550's were £200 of the board i'll have to see if father christmas will drop me off a set of 650's, Ian, Soop Dog thanks my 1.3 bar run was the only bit of abuse till it gets set up, to be honest i am scared to give it full throttle till a dino operator gives me the i dont want to get this far and blow the ferker up, Adi no e-manage at the moment SAFC and ITC for now but e-manage could be a possibily in the future (lol Ian)

cheers guys now i'me blushing

thanks for that Ian, excellent thread

Video, shit mate i'me at the edge of my technical envelope (dont know what the f**k i'me doing) posting pics i'de need to do a college course for video

just got the car back on the road after 3 months for T61 fittment and i could'nt resist a blast before it gets mapped, hit 1.3 bar and holy crap it was absolutely flying work done and parts includes~ Head off for mild port polish/valve stem seals UK spec cam shafts 550 injectors with DIY resistor pack Tubular manifold, inovative waste gate Boostlogic T61 Custom intercooler and intake pipe Fluidyne rad MVP auto trans cooler and stat HKS 3" midpipe Loads of polishing few before and after pics, note re-routed t'intercooler piping that went rather well

perhaps we need a drive widening construction thread devoted to the best kind of cement mixer and my angle grinders bigger than yours type stuff