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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

paul mac

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Everything posted by paul mac

  1. the block drain plug is an absolute b*****d to get to, if you are determined to drain the block use the search button and make sure you know exactly where it is, some plasters and bandages might also be usefull, like johnA sez just flush it a couple of times
  2. i think with all the bits and bats it comes to about £200 and if you,ve got a strut brace you may have to get the hammer out
  3. that is a really good price, i built my own FMIC using a Pace core and that alone was nearly £300, i would'nt worry about effeciency of the core if your running a bpu supe with a knacked side mount, its got to be better
  4. Hi Gaz a bit heavy handed tightening the wheels up mate, you would'nt catch me doing that but if i were to do it the part number is 90942-02070 @ £1.51 each, i got a few just in case i snapped another, not that i did snap 1 (buy a torque wrench)
  5. have to say that of all the supes i have seen (heard) the superdragger has to be the quietest it is made from galvanised steel whereas a lot of the others are stainless and this is where the problem lies, stainless resonates making them noisy hence they last longer but are feckin noisy, i'me like you mate setting off for work at 6:30 with the dragger is bad enough with the neighbours (only 1 complaint) with a nur-spec i'de probably have an ASBO
  6. have a look under the car and see where the pipes go for your mystery cooler, i dont know jack about uk cars so dont know if they came with an oil cooler
  7. paul mac

    Radiator

    koyo are pretty good and thats a crackin price go for it mate, with regard to the air con rad mine is a 93 the radiator was shot but the air con rad was still in pretty good nic, is your air con still working if it is i would run it till it packs up cos changing the air con rad would be expensive, first you'de have to find one then pay to have the system drained and then re-filled, i've allways thought if mine packs up i would ditch it all to save weight and get some more air in the engine
  8. a pic of the cooler would be good, the auto trans cooler pipes are the ones going into the bottom of the radiator (sorry if you allready knew that) it does'nt matter which way round they go to the cooler
  9. paul mac

    Radiator

    i was in the same boat mate, so i allways like to see "opportunities" rather than "problems" so upgraded to a fluidyne, i think you can get the manual re-cored there was a guy a while ago did this for about £200 using a lexus core, or give dusty a try at MVP for a good price on a fluidyne
  10. thanks for that simon, its just a space issue knew there had to be a logical explanation
  11. just drill out the standard sump plug and tap it, i've had one in for 2 years
  12. nice write up mate i enjoy looking at stuff like this, is there any difference using an "external inline" stat such as you have or one of the built in stat oil filter sandwich plate ones
  13. V8 lexus filter IMHO readily available from any toyota dealer, Mr Toyota does'nt put crap on his cars he wants them to last
  14. paul mac

    172mph!

    i think we're talking about speeds "slightly" in excess of 70 mph here fella lol
  15. paul mac

    172mph!

    yeah and i might end up someones BEE-ATCH aswell, thats something to look forward to. F**k it pedal to metal i'll risk it
  16. i have just done this, and done it the hard way meaning i bought all the bits seperate to save money and i enjoy the challenge, but it is still feckin expensive i have a tubular manifold and a T61, i already had a FMIC, AFC, ITC, FSE, 550's, brakes etc so it was the logical step to go single, if it is your long term aim to go single build up the parts over a year or so, i started with a pace intercooler and made the end tanks myself (cost £350 in total) and went from there, i hate to say it and this may upset some of the traders on here but if you go this route get all your stuff from the USA, i would say i have spent £2000 doing this and thats not counting all the supporting mods
  17. it really does make you wonder who writes all this crap, i mean headgaskets blowing ~ wow they really did there homework on that, did'nt Gaz from Envy offer to proof read the article and he's still waiting now when the mag is in the shops, the pics are all from a buyers guide they did about 4 years ago
  18. paul mac

    172mph!

    i've done over 160 leps racing a skyline (and still got beat) but it is a bit scary reading the poor bike dudes locked up, one of these days one of us (or hopefully a skyline) is gonna get caught at a mental speed and get banged up and in the national press, just hope its not me
  19. well as i'me strictly an auto man (one to many bike accidents) i have never worked on a manual so forgive my ignorance, it does make you wonder who went to all the time and trouble to bodge the nut and bolt in and more baffling why
  20. enlighten me ???????????????? dude what does this lot mean it does'nt really help the guy does it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  21. no idea what that is on the car with the bolt sticking out of the bottom it looks like a home made affair, is your car manual or auto cos the new one in the bag is for an auto, the bolt heads are 12mm on the tensioner i use a 1/4" drive socket on 2 long extension bars as the back bolt is hard to get at put your new one on then pull the pin (hand grenade stylee) job done
  22. no offence intended mate, from your post i guessed you did'nt have the gear to do it so drilling the sump really is'nt an option for most people even if you have the gear, i have never had a problem with the sump readings they are about 20-30 degrees down on the oil coming straight off the block so as long as you bear this in mind there is nothing wrong with reading the sump its just different 95-100 degree sump oil temp at wot is'nt a useless reading IMHO, your other option would be to get a oil filter sandwitch plate and put the sensor in there
  23. have to disagree here mate, have run a sump oil temp for 2 years and it works fine it will give lower readings than straight of the gallery but everything is relative, seeing as the guy is struggling to drill a sump plug i hardly think suggesting drilling the sump is a realistic option
  24. toyota part number for the plug is 90341-12012 price £2.28 take it to any local machine shop and they'll probably do it for a fiver or less, i dont know of any ready made item you could buy
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