jonny mac

oil on the box bel housing is because the rocker gaskets were worn and letting oil leak out round the the back 20171104_170708 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr 20171104_170702 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr 20171104_170658 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr Toyota clutch 20171104_170003 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr flywheel coming off the 2jzge engine 20171104_170428 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr 121 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr 20171104_170724 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr 20171104_170717 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr 20171104_170712 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr

oh aye thanks, the s14 has been stored since it's insurance ran out in august, I've not had the time or the money to do anything with it just now as it's being consumed by this supra haha ================================ update: took my r154 flywheel for skimming since i'll be using a new clutch, had very little taken off so it's perfectly flat now, some of the original face is still there 102 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr went to fill the engine up with the new oil, using titan pro race 15w50, half filled the engine with that and will use an ordinary 5w50 comma motorsport oil for the rest just for the first start to run for 5 minutes then will drain and put in the titan pro race oil with another new filter 103 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr made a start at the aristo loom cut out all of the autobox loom and labeled up which wires are +b etc 104 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr 105 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr toyota r154 bel housing arrived 106 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr 107 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr competition clutch organic r154 disc 108 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr toyota oem r154 clutch cover 109 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr toyota r154 slave cylinder 110 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr toyota release bearing 111 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr carpet cleaning 112 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr clutch hub washers arrived 113 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr bearing assembled onto hub 114 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr then complete unit into cover 115 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr got cracking on saturday morning and the sun came out too which was great as i was expecting to be freezing my nuts off 116 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr ready to lift and pull, my trusty old s14 wheels always used as jacks to lift the car up high enough, pulled many engines out with these supporting everything disconnected that needed to be, i'd unbolted the exhaust manifold because the bolts were siezed into the cat and i didn't have my grinder or any form of heat one side fell off so i guess that was where my exhaust leak up front was haha, a dead flexi join 117 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr so that's the ge and w58 out the way, i began using a degreasing and shampoo mix on the engine bay 118 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr 119 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr still needs tidied but it's 100x cleaner than it was 120 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr engine out and laid carefully onto blocks of wood ontop of a caster frame 122 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr

those of you unsure on the intercooler pipework it looks like it's running an internal wastegate with actuator bolted to the comp housing that is why you wouldn't be able to clock the compressor outlet a full 360 to have a neater pipework setup tbh I'd have expected any big single turbo to be running an external wastegate for boost control but if it works and it's not broken then....

this is coming out tomorrow, pics to follow. will be strapped up to a pallet then ready for whoever wants it

how much are your replacement cores btw?

so now to do this with a supra pinout and match up the starter signal etc etc i'll need to add in a relay as from memory the old ge engine doesn't need one for coils since it has a distributor and leads, that's easy enough though

next was this 20171027_152311 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr - - - Updated - - - 20171027_152321 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr - - - Updated - - - 20171027_152316 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr

so this is what I've drawn up for the ecu at lunchtime 20171027_130416 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr plus b3 is almost fully cut out because of all the auto crap, only 2 wires need kept from there for speed sensors what should I do about throttle pedal sensor inputs to ecu because my car is a stock non traction control model, should I get a pedal and sensor from a vvti turbo facelift supra with a sensor and wire it in? or maybe that's only for cruise control which I don't have anyway

hi guys I have a mkiv n/a manual supra I also have an aristo twin turbo vvti 2jz gte engine with loom and ecu plans here: cut off the aristo harness ends and extend them through the bulkhead to reach the supra body connectors and run the aristo ecu my car is a basic abs model without traction control and without any advanced ecu's this thread will be all the workings I have for the conversion loom including pictures and wiring diagrams, i'll be going through every body plug on both the aristo and both the supra loom, comparing them to wire them up correctly and also hopefully having some guidance along the way from forum members that don't mind chipping in some advice here and there my car's pinout diagram here, although this is for an auto I'd assume the manual body plugs are the same just without the auto wires: http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/41678224/2JZ-GE%20JZA80%20Supra%20Engine%20Wiring and the aristo here: http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/42173082/2JZ-GTE%20VVTi%20JZS161%20Aristo%20Engine%20Wiring

ordered a few parts yesterday new r154 Toyota clutch cover new competition clutch organic disc new aisin clutch slave cylinder new Toyota release bearing for the hub just need to get a bel housing ordered and i'll be good

thanks, too many people taking these cars purely for breaking them as I said to the guy I took it from, I couldn't bear to see a supra lay up not moving haha my r154 arrived today woohoo! so I need a few bits: r154 slave cylinder 2jz bel housing for r154 r154 pull type pressure clutch cover just ordered a new spigot bearing and I'm going to try get the flywheel resurfaced that came with my gearbox

awesome, managed to set it with the vvti pulley fully clockwise and lined up to the marks on timing cover, turned engine over and made sure they all lined back up correctly delighted thanks for the reply

added the brake servo fitting for the intake manifold with new sealing washers 86 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr also replaced most of the vacuum pipes with new silicone hose 87 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr i need a rear sump dipstick tube! just remembered, stripped the rocker covers and other parts off to access the stem seals found some writing on the exh camshaft, not sure what that means 88 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr cams out, really clean in here 89 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr followed factory service manual for removal making sure to follow slackening procedure 90 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr used the poormanmods video on youtube and copied what he done, the rope trick 91 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr bucket and lifter off 92 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr 93 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr one of 24 removed 94 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr during 95 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr new camshaft seals for both sides 96 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr old crap 97 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr new rocker cover gaskets going on 98 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr new belt on, turned vvti pulley fully clockwise then timed in correctly using the dash instead of the dot's on the pulleys once the crank was at tdc1 99 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr some new grade 7 copper plugs in 100 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr back together with no bolts on the blue cover as that needs to come back off for the loom 101 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr i still need to get the following: dash gauge temp sensor rear sump dipstick tube sump oil level sensor or blanking plate air conditioning bracket to support power steering pump wiring loom made up and fitted to the engine r154 flywheel/clutch

yeah found that when looking up info on doing the change, shame photobucket took a crap on everyone haha

hi guys, so I've had both my camshafts out my vvti 2jz tt engine today, swapped over 24 valve stem seals so now I've got the cams back in the head and torqued down, the crank is set at tdc going by the dot on the pulley/dot on the oil pump and a screw driver into cyl1 plug hole i'll be using the - dash marks on the cam pulleys rather than the dot as those are 30* btdc, which my crank isn't at, it's at tdc however I can grab my vvti pulley and move it around a lot, I don't know what exact accurate position to set it at before fitting the belt? I've seen online some say you need to fully crank the vvti pulley clockwise whilst turning the camshaft with the big 32mm hex to line up the - dash against your timing cover I'd have thought it would need to be set in the middle? or does the vvti just advance the cam with oil pressure and doesn't need to work the other way? thinking about it I can see that it would only work one way given oil pressure any help here would be great as I've basically just got to do the timing and I'm good to throw the rest of my engine back together

well I've bought a mk3 supra propshaft anyway so i'll see what happens if I use my mkiv center carrier bearing

hi guys recently I have done an r154 conversion into a soarer using a mk3 supra front propshaft and soarer front propshaft carrier bearing i'll be fitting an r154 into my mkiv shortly and was wondering if the same goes as I believe the supra and soarer are the same floor pan? so I'd be safe enough using a mk3 prop with mkiv supra carrier bearing and housing ? just before I go out and spend money on a mk3 prop and it turns out to be wrong for my car

moved the engine for more working access 70 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr swapped over the old supra steering wheel and now using a celica one, cheap and certainly alot nicer to drive with 71 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr 72 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr keeping the space beneath stereo open for a gauge pod pas pump on, just need to make up a bracket where the ac would go 73 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr started replacing the vacuum pipework around the turbos because they had all gone hard and brittle with age 74 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr new bearing in the aux belt tensioner pulley 75 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr got a water pump off my mate, it was a genuine toyota item that had done 3 weeks on a car and most of that was not even on the road, good as new, so i just replaced all the gaskets around it when fitting 76 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr my engine had the water pump done in japan usign an aftermarket brand, alot of the time they're actually just all from the same company as oem toyota use but have the toyota marks ground back 77 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr stripped 78 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr old o ring removed from block and new one put in, also both o rings on the tall water pipe 79 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr 80 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr 81 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr new temp sensor in too 82 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr made up some oil drain lines for the turbos, also heat protected one of them closer to the exhaust 83 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr thermostat back in and lower rad hose 84 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr so i'm at a bit of a tricky point now, i have a full set of valve stem seals i could fit but i don't know if the engine needs them yet it'll be ALOT easier doing them just now rather than later though, i have the intention to use the rope trick like poormanmods on youtube did and that way you don't take the head off if not, then this lot is going onto the engine tomorrow night 85 by Jonny McIntosh, on Flickr

hi, does anyone know where I can get a factory looking mph overlay for my speedometer, I don't have my car converted to mph as it still count's in km's currently someone has lay a mph conversion adapter over my original speedometer but it looks like a 12 year old has made it on ms word using stupid fonts any help or directions would be awesome on where to go, ideally looking to get a factory finish looking product in the same fonts etc as the oem rpm gauge to match thanks jonny.

thread can be deleted, managed to find one on another forum

woohoo, r154 purchased from a jzx100 with remote shifter, box is said to be mint with no crunching and whines I might take it apart and upgrade the thrust washer prior to fitting with a martin crawler or hilux item if I get the time

reduced £900

Sold

let me know by the end of the week if you would like to sell then