Scott

Windows 7 is fantastic IMO. It runs similar to XP but has the visuals of Vista. Vista looked great but it was seriously flawed in the background. Windows 7 is a properly good OS, I've been running it since the beta stages.

Just make sure it's Windows 7 that you are installing

Personally I think the software is at fault rather than the hardware. Have you ever reformatted the PC? After 6 months to a year windows tends to grind right down. It hasn't been so bad with Windows 7 thankfully, but anything prior to that will always start to slow down. Vista almost grinds to a hault after a month. If I were in your shoes I would reformat the PC and take it from there. If it still isn't good enough then go all out on a new build

Get the lotto on mate

There shouldn't be anything near the back of the engine bud. It should be completely stock. If the boost controller is hooked up there then it's all wrong.

My first thought was also a misfire. They get a bit pesky at those boost levels.

It's quite strange as the bottom end seems like reasonable value for money, in fact it's excellent value for money when you consider what MrT usually charge for stuff.

I remembered reading something about pistons being a bit iffy, it must have been the CPs as you say so I'll stay clear of them. The Mahle pistons seem good value for money. I'm actually struggling to find anything on failed rods. The only failed rod I have ever known was on JPs engine but I don't think any rod would have stood up to whatever caused his issue. Plenty of info on failed rod bolts but obviously every bolt in the engine will be replaced with ARP (where possible). I just don't fancy spending £1k+ for rods but if I was buying it would have to be H-Beams as I don't see the point in spending the money for A's given the price difference vs obvious strength benefits.

I'm curious where the other 5k goes lol.

That's quite pricey then considering the short block and head price. I'm guessing it's complete though with turbo's, intake etc?

Would the reservoir still be above the pump? I would be worried about air getting in the system if it wasn't. I think the volume of liquid is only effected by the temperature, the more liquid the longer it has to cool in the reservoir so the cooler it will run. If you have a PS cooler you will be fine though.

I think you should put the car entirely back to stock as far as boost control and ETTC goes. See what you end up with and take it from there. You need to remove all the bodges from the previous owner.

I definitely won't be drag racing in a big way, maybe the odd run at santa pod with the club, so I think I'll just leave the main caps out for now. I'm definitely not going over 1k BHP, around the 800s/900s will be the absolute maximum I'm going to take the car. I might even not go past what I can get out of the 6765, will see how I feel. Do you know what sort of limits the stock rods are good for? I was always under the impression it was into 1000bhp before they became a liability as they were very strong as stock? I'm in the process of single turboing my car with the intention of running around 700hp on the stock bottom end as is. I bought a spare engine in order to build up in my spare time for if/when the stock motor blows. If/when it does blow I want to be able to cover whatever power I want to throw at it hence why I'm not going for a new stocker. My main queries is if the conrods are worth the outlay, same for the billet caps and what sort of pistons should I be looking at in a quality vs price scenario. Thanks for that Dunk. The crank is actually cheaper than I thought it would be, if mine isn't absolutely bang on I think I'll just get a new one. What does full built engine mean? Is that a forged internals engine from Toyota?

I mean properly mate, without the iPhail - iPhailaccessory restrictions This is what all you iPhail geeks keep missing out on. The ability to use a product with what you wish, rather than what you are told.

I'm planning out my rebuild for the future and while pricing various bits and bobs up for curiosity I got to thinking about the rods. For the power I'm going to be running I don't think there is any point in me going for anything aftermarket but what about new stockers? Is there any reason that old stockers would be no use? Can the bush be replaced in the stock rods with a genuine part? Is it worthwhile buying new OE over aftermarket (price difference?). What is the accepted limit of stock rods? I've never heard of them being the weak part of the engine but it's always good to know for certain. My thoughts at the moment are.... Clean, paint & rebore of the block (86.5mm) Oversized forged pistons (Mahle any good? I take it they come with rings?) Stock crank checked & balanced Stock conrods checked & balanced Pistons balanced Clevite Thrust Bearings Clevite Main Bearings Clevite Big end bearings I would love to get a set of billet caps but I wasn't sure about their fitting. Surely, like the cam caps, they are a matched set? Would the block need re-bored to match them? Would I then need oversized bearings? It seems like a lot of hassle when I definitely will not be crossing the 4 figure threshold. I think I'm over-simplifying this in my head also as building the bottom end seems to be coming in rather cheap. I was expecting a huge list of parts required to do it so I guess I must be missing a load of stuff? Obviously I'm thinking new pumps/seals etc but that's a given. Are there a load of other aftermarket things I have missed? I understand that the processing of the block will be quite costly but that's not really something I can price accurately at the moment. Thanks

I'm amazed you make any money while piling it into these projects

Lol, just lock yourself in the bog mate

Ehh? Who modded it for you? Mine is fine

Awesome. Boy has some moves.

I live in a bermuda triangle called "Sunny Larkhall" though.

You know how hot it gets up here though

In fairness I rarely use it. I just want to keep the car as complete as I can. I'm not on a weight saving mission or anything like that so I don't really have any reason to remove it. If I can't get a decent condenser it'll be going bye bye though

If it has Freeview HD then you are sorted, if not you need the set-top box. You will know by the channel listings that you have on your TV. If the HD channels are there and they work then you have freeview HD. It's a relatively recent thing though so the TV would need to be a couple of months old at most.

This one is very similar although due to the size of the game area it's on a far larger scale. I still got lost with the storyline, a lot of references that didn't make much sense to me lol. I felt as if I had missed a middle game somewhere.

As long as it isn't turning to dust it'll be better than what I have at the moment When I tap it it's like cremation remains falling onto the floor.