PhilMorrison

Still needed. Anyone breaking an engine?

I did, and he doesn't. Thanks though Anyone else?

I have a brand new boxed AEM ECU with 3.5bar map sensor that I won't be using on my car now. If your seriously interested drop me a PM

as above I'm after some cheapo rear discs and pads for my UK supra calipers.

TT idle control valve wanted I'm not sure if they seperate, but I need it with the flange that bolts onto the plenum. Cheers

Where can I get some nice carbon or alloy front covers for the 2jz (non VVti)? I don't know if anyone does both of these parts? http://media.driftworks.com/Phil/2jzCovers.jpg Cheers

We've sold a few sets to Supra owners, You can either use a 255 rear and it 'should' clear, or 265 and roll the lip. It is of course dependent on your camber settings though.. We have also had a customer fit the 9.5" at the front as well using a slightly stretched 235/40/18..

What do you want for it Chris? That could be ideal.

Or if anyone knows of anywhere that sells the flanges seperately in stainless, that would be cool

I need a stainless head flange and T4 split flange to make another custom manifold, and I wondered if anyone had a cracked ebay stainless manifold they'd removed from the car that I could buy for a few pence, so I can cut the flanges off.?

That would be brilliant. How long have you been sucessfully running this restricted bypass in place of the matrix?

Very sound advice guys thank you . As I don't have any return pipework to work with, I'll be fabricating from scratch, so I guess the next question is, where should I send the water back to? Top rad pipe, or pre thermostat? and then the next question, what size restriction should I make? I guess as long as it stll flows, it can be pretty small..

Very interesting. Has anyone actually tried blocking it? As you say, it could increase flow to the bit's that matter, but it could also increase the pressure enough to damage something I guess. Superb Thanks very much, it makes alot more sense now As above, I'd still prefer to block it if it's an option, but if I have to fabricate something, I'd probably look at just having a pipe from that outlet at the top of the head, straight to the top rad pipe.

Do you know how it was bypassed? There's usually a water pipe with a load of inputs on it that I've got rid of. I imagine it would be one of those, but if you can get me a picture to confirm, that would be absolutely awesome. Thanks

That's a possibility if it comes down to it. I'd prefer to know now so I can get the parts I need though, as I'm on a bit of a hectic schedule as it is

I don't have heaters, and the engine is bare essentials only.. I don't mind looping it back if I have to do that to retain flow through the engine, but on some engines you can block stuff like that.

That's what I originally thought it would be, but I've been told by someone that it's a breather. It did seem a strange place for a breather to be honest. So okay, if it's a water feed to the heater matrix, is it used as part of the water flow through the engine? or can it be blocked? If it can't be blocked, where must it return to? Sorry for all the questions, Obviously I don't have a car or complete engine to reference.

It is a breather isn't it? The one at the back of the cylinderhead between the rocker covers that points directly up? Cheers

Thanks Ibrar . I've got a bracket that's like a tube with flattened ends that I don't know what to do with, so maybe that's it . It's one complicated jigsaw puzzle though .. I'll pop in tomorrow mate.

I've gained some good info from the searches here. But what I need to know is how the powersteering pump fits when the aircon pump is completely removed? I don't have an aircon pump for reference, so I can't picture how to get around it. I pressume I need to make a bracket as one of the powersteering mounts seems to be the aircon pump itself.. I can deal with the shorter aux belt, but what have people who have removed the aircon pump completely done about mounting the powersteering pump? Cheers.

Yeah of course . The downpipe will be ceramic coated inside, and wrapped outside, and the exhaust housing will possibly be ceramic coated if we can find someone to do it, or just bagged, and a 2 layer ally insulation board between them as well. Heat is a massive killer of drift cars with the amount of time we stay full load full throttle, so everythings been taken into account in that department

Okay thanks guys . I'm going to try it out with a short 3" downpipe, and if that appears to be a restriction, we'll sort something bigger. I'd like to see between 650-700@the fly, but I don't know if I'm kidding myself there.

Cheers . I'll see how I get on with the 1.06. The final drive is going to be 3.6, and the limiter at 8k, so it may be okay . I'm a bit of a power whore at the moment. What power have you got out of the 0.81 version?

You've really confused me know. Everything I've heard says that the exhaust needs to get progressivly bigger. A massive step to 4" from an turbo exhaust port that measures 66mm (don't you just love the metric/imperial clash in the UK ) would create turbulance. I've also heard that the longer an exhaust is, the bigger diameter it has to be as it gets further back, as hot gasses flow alot quicker than cooler gases, so even small bends in the pipe create restrictions. Thanks . It's a 1.06 huzzah .. I'm pretty good with the tripple carbon clutch, but I'm not sure if it's going to be just too laggy myself.. We'll see eh! They come off with 3mm to clear . Alot of thought went into working on the engine when it's in situe.

My downpipe consists of a 45* bend, to 70cm straight section and another 45* section. I was planning on keeping this section all 3" (72.5mm I.D), and then tapering out to 4" after this section.. Is this going to be adequate, or should it become 4" much sooner? See the setup here: http://media.driftworks.com/S15/NewTurbo1.jpg http://media.driftworks.com/S15/NewTurbo2.jpg