PhilMorrison

Hi . Is it the divided (twin scroll) housing?

It's a long shot, but I seem to recall someone here offering me a 0.82 exhaust housing for the garret twin scroll GT4088r? Can anyone help?

Yeah it held out.. I wouldn't have been able to diagnose and fix the problem without this forums help. Well worth the membership fee. Thanks again people

KZM8HZgYoAc Thanks for the help people

Tomei LSD's are made by Kaaz, so you may have some luck there.

Okay it's back together and not pissing oil anymore. I won't know if it's actually solved the problem until it gets an ass raping tomorrow, but it's a start

Okay, perhaps a good sign. I've got a spare block in the workshop, I've just pulled the sprocket on that to see what the crank seal position should look like. It's completely flush with the outer edge of the pump, and I know the crank seal in the engine in the car was pushed in a good 2-3mm further in than that. So, I'm picking up a new crank seal from Toyota tomorrow at 8:30, and I'll throw it all back together and hopefully make the startline on Saturday morning for round four of the Europeandriftchampionship . Wish me luck. Thanks for your help guys

I'm running to 7200rpm which I thought was extremely conservative. I'm really hoping it isn't a damaged pump It's Silkolene Pro S 10w50.

Hmmm, I can't even see a drain hole, but I'm doing this on the floor from the bottom, as the ramps tied up.. I've just raped the oil seal out, and other than the damage I did getting it out, it looks as new. It didn't look massively far in, but I don't know what it should look like. Like I said, on install I know it was pushed in until it stopped. Is there a correct procedure for installing a crank seal? They come greased IIRC. This is what I'm looking at with the crank seal removed. Not alot you can tell from a photo, but I was under there, so thought I'd snap it for the sake of it. http://media.driftworks.com/Phil/Oilpumpseal.jpg

It won't run unfortunately as it uses a 36tooth trigger and hall sensor for the crank trigger. I'm pretty confident it's the seal, everything is still spotlesly clean above the seal, the lower half of the actual seal is oiled, as is everything on the engine below it.

You mean turned it over? I know it's non interferance, but didn't want to take the risk. I pressume it's totally fine to do?. If it helps at all with diagnosis, it doesn't leak immediately. It takes about 30-40 seconds to build up pressure and leak. Also, I've never done a crank seal before, and recall pushing the seal in until it stopped, so I'm hoping I have just pushed it in to far.. Why doesn't it have a lip or something to stop you being able to do that btw?

Thanks Lee, I'll check to see if it's pushed in to far. I really hope it's the latter.. If I have pushed it in to far, what would be a good method of pulling the seal out without raping it? I am picking another one up tomorrow morning, but I don't want to kill the seal uncessarily.

After my engine probs, I thought I was there, but apparently not. I'm using a GS300 NA crank. I didn't measure the section where the front seal fits, but the rest of it was absolutely untouched flawless. It's all new ACL bearings etc. It's using a brand new PHR uprated oilpump, and brand new Toyota front crank seal. The car is only running 1.1bar, and I have a 20mm ID breather per rocker cover. After only 3 sessions where it's been running perfectly yesterday it started leaking badly from the front crank seal. I've just pulled the pully and sprocket, and can see the seal. It doesn't appeared to have popped out or anything, so where the hell have I gone wrong? P.S does anyone have the part number for the front crank seal to hand? I need one by tomorrow

Engine and Interior shots for those that requested them Engine http://media.driftworks.com/Phil/ChaserEngine.jpg Interior http://media.driftworks.com/Phil/ChaserInterior2.jpg http://media.driftworks.com/Phil/ChaserInterior3.jpg http://media.driftworks.com/Phil/ChaserInterior.jpg http://media.driftworks.com/Phil/ChaserInterior4.jpg And the most important bit of any 'drivers' car http://media.driftworks.com/Phil/ChaserInterior5.jpg

Keron, entertain me with the six speed price please dude

I'll try and sort some this weekend

Thanks people I'm going to get some engine and interior shots asap I 'may' consider a cheaper 6speed Supra part ex.

Sold http://media.driftworks.com/Phil/JX100Chaser1.jpg http://media.driftworks.com/Phil/JX100Chaser6.jpg http://media.driftworks.com/Phil/JX100Chaser4.jpg Engine http://media.driftworks.com/Phil/ChaserEngine.jpg http://media.driftworks.com/Phil/ChaserInterior2.jpg http://media.driftworks.com/Phil/ChaserInterior3.jpg http://media.driftworks.com/Phil/ChaserInterior.jpg http://media.driftworks.com/Phil/ChaserInterior4.jpg And the most important bit of any 'drivers' car http://media.driftworks.com/Phil/ChaserInterior5.jpg

TT, but I wasn't aware there was a difference?

Alternator and PS pump needed for 2JZ. PM me what you've got Phil

Hi, sorry I forgot to close the thread. This is sold.

I guess a good start would be to see if I actually need one. It'd be very easy to throw an oil temp sensor in there.. I'd just need to know what a safe working temp limit is with the V160 oil.

Cheers . I did wonder if this level of sustained gearbox abuse was relatively new ground. I figured someone here must track their Supra properly though?

I was having a little panick about the loud rattling from the gearbox on idle, and found the info here saying it's quite common when using lightened flywheels (I use a carbonetics triple plate carbon clutch/flywheel ) so thanks for that info. I don't care about loud noises as long as they arn't going to become terminal because of them .. +1 for searching people Anyway, because the noise seems to get really bad when the cars run for a while, I wondered if the box ever came with a cooler option? Or if anyone's experimented with running an aftermarket cooler? I have plenty of coolers, and I have a UK Supra diff oil pump floating around so it wouldn't be to hard to knock something up..

Thanks for the reply I've got NA and TT bearings in the workshop and could see no difference by eye. My first thought was the size of the holes, but they 'look' the same.