THOR Racing

Stock traction control ON or OFF? Any green SLIP light flash? Regards Pete

Sounds more like there is a restriction still within the system. When I de-catted my car I could not raise boost until I fitted a boost controller and I later found out that the cause was the back box section of the exhaust constricting breathing. The two mid-boxes and/or the final back-box of the standard exhaust system were collapsed/corroded enough to cause enough of a blockage that my boost was self limited. rather like fitting a large restrictor ring after the de-cat pipes. So eventually, after fitting hybrid turbos and them not being much improvement, I changed the whole lot for a Mongoose complete exhaust system and now she flies Regards Pete

I would agree with this. Bleeder valves are inherently dependant on outside air temps, so one day it'll be like a rocket and the next slow in comparison. The VFCC can be adjusted to REMOVE fuel cut altogether but I would NOT recommend this with the mods you have. It's telling you to reduce the boost a little. You are on the edge of overboost fuel cut so be careful. Regards Pete

So what's my options? Should I get someone to take a good look. Possibly worse case cut the old camber adjusters off and replace with new? What about bushes? Can all this be done at the same time? I hear others have used the Whiteline bush set? What sort of cost am I looking at? I'm a big dunce when it comes to suspension and mechanics. I cannot drive it much longer as it is. It's driving me mad. Plus costing fortune in tyres. Going to have to bite the bullet and let it go for a day to get it checked over. Regards Pete

Well hotter air is less dense so it's harder work for the turbo to compress this less dense air to make the same mixture as before. The trouble with bleed valves is just as you've experienced. You have no automatic control over boost. You get what you get dependant on the temperature and height above sea level you are. Not sure what this clicking sound is? If you go out on a colder day (like yesterday or maybe today) is it improved? i.e. higher boost? You sould maybe read the thread discussing this. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7877 Regards Pete

Toyota numbered the connector diagram but I guess some other manufacturer (Like Tyco or AMP) made the connector. Hence the wrong/different markings. Remember to SPLICE the power and ground (i.e. just JOIN the wires) and ONLY CUT the MAP signal wire. Regards Pete

No. The FCD will not affect boost build up in that way. If the device fails it normally fails catastophically and the car will not run. Never known it to fail any other way. Plus I tested yours by hand before I sent it. (Provided no-one touched the inside settings of the dials, but I doubt 99% that that would cause your symptoms) It does sound like a boost bleed. If you hear the turbos spinning but no boost is building it might be being vented. So take a look at the intercooler pipes as suggested. The one that leads into the inner wing and down to the intercooler is a git to inspect so you might have missed it on first inspection. Also get this checked out soon or you'll be sucking in all sorts of cr*p post air filter. Too often the FCD is put high on the list of possible causes and more often it's actually the result of the increased boost the FCD allows that it the real cause. It normally uncovers the weakest link, happens to us all. Regards Pete EDIT: Would help if I read ALL the postings first Glad it's sorted.

Ah.. Sorry. No you've tried to make it more complicated than it actually is. IF the ECU LOOKS the same layout. i.e. one large connector and one smaller one to it's right. JUST FOLLOW the PINOUT and forget numbers and colours. The number will not match and the colours are the colours of MY VFCC NOT the ECU wires. JUST use the physical location of the PINS designated on the diagram and don't worry about anything else. I hope that solves the problem. It really is simple. I guess if you're not used to this kind of installation then it can appear to be more complicated as you're more likely to check every little detail Good luck. Ring me if you have problems. Regards Pete

You still haven't said what year your car is? Could be the VVTi see below. Pete

Shielding should normally be grounded at one end only. Not sure but the cable may be grounded at the control unit end. But... I've seen them grounded before on other installations so I'd say the best thing is to attach the shield to a chassis earth point. Regards Pete

If someone just tried to PM me I've emptied my inbox out now. Try it again. [email protected] Regards Pete

Thanks guys. So what's my options? Should I get someone to take a good look. Possibly worse case cut the old camber adjusters off and replace with new? What about bushes? Can all this be done at the same time? What sort of cost am I looking at? I'm a big dunce when it comes to suspension and mechanics. I cannot drive it much longer as it is. It's driving me mad. Plus costing fortune in tyres. Regards Pete

Doh!. Oh yeah. Mixed up me numbers.... anyway... the ECU is under the passener carpet against the bulk head. Sort of where the soles of your feet would be when you sat inside. Regards Pete

you may find that raising boost to high in warm weather like this is retarding the ignition each times the engine sense knock (detonation) Are you using Super Unleaded and what other mods do you have to reduce air charge temperatures? This is the only thing I can think of that will reduce your power when everything else is left the same. You can prove this by removing the EFI fuses for 30s and replacing. This should remove the ignition settings for knock detect and start a fresh. But if you notice the power drop off over time again then the engine's telling you it needsso help. Regards Pete

ummmmmmmmmmmmmm........... the 2JZ GT is the normally aspirated Supra and NOT the Turbo one which is the 2JZ GTE. Hence you DON'T NEED a VFCC fuel cut. As you don't have any turbos...... Have I missed something here? What is the exact model and year of your Supra? You may be confusing the writing on the ECU with the model of car you have or you might even have the VVTi. I have all diagrams but little point until you say which exact model it is. Oh.... and I was only a phone call away Don't hesitate to ring if you have problems. Regards Pete

Sorry. Should have said. It's the FRONT camber that is out. I also hope the ground was level. It was a general tyre garage that does this kind of adjustment everyday. Regards Pete

Hi guys, I've been having problems with my uneven tyre ware for some time and been trying to get someone to correct the settings of the geometry. Easy you might think. But... my camber bolts have seized. Or so stiff three people hanging off them and they wouldn't budge. But.... Something odd has happened..... I have a -2 camber on the passenger side and +1 on the drivers side. This suggests to the layman (like me) that the whole car has been pushed over to one side. I was wondering if the problem has been a loose or misaligned chassis? If where the suspension bolts to the chassis it has taken a knock or become loose I would hazzard a guess that the wheels stay where they are and the metal work moves between them and effectively pushes one over one way and the other in the opposite direction. I could be wrong and it's just needs the camber setting properly but I don't want to go adjusting camber if it's the chassis alignment that is out. The car has been lowered a long time ago and I did ask for the geometry to be set up at that time. I would have thought that both wheels would have a more negative camber not one positive and one negative if it was just that they hadn't done the job right? I also don't remember hitting anthing hard enough to shift the chassis mounts etc. The alloy wheels would be knackered with this force I guess. But kerbing has happened with the amount of miles I do (unfortunately) so a small bump might shift a loose mounting bolt or something. Am I talking crap? Can I just reset the camber and tracking and leave it at that? Regards Pete

and this for the Jap/UK Spec non-VVTi

This is all I have....

and this closer view of the left hand side connector.

Further update: Just a couple of photos so you can really see the colour of the wires. Rgds Pete

and this...

check out this.... http://www.trlperformance.com/fcon.html and the following photos. Does this help? Regards Pete

I don't want to get into a war of words.....but Yes, the HKS FCD does have an adjustable voltage clamp but also a proportional scaling as well. (coupled to the clamping level) This has the effect of compressing more of the MAP input into the same area as before. (Scaling) This DOES have the indirect effect of raising the fuel cut threshold as well as clamping. The TRL VFCC maintains the standard MAP range but monitors the increase in MAP output beyond the stock fuel cut threshold and when it hits the overboost threshold it unclamps the output, causing fuel cut. A graph would be easier to show this. We've said before that it's a matter of opinion if you choose to scale all the MAP signal to compress a larger deflection range into the same space as before or just allow it through without modification. I'm not arguing one way or the other. So yes, I had forgotten that the HKS FCD does in effect raise the fuel cut threshold by scaling and maybe the only difference is the TRL VFCC has seperately adjustable fuel cut and overboost settings where the HKS FCD have just one fuel cut setting a fixed scaling relating to that setting. I hope that settles that point. The Greddy is just a voltage clamp as far as I can remember. Pete

I think the major difference between the HKS, Greddy and TRL fuel cut devices is the TRL VFCC has an adjustable OVERBOOST setting. i.e. it can activate fuel cut at a new higher adjustable level. So the HKS and Greddy **ARE** ADJUSTABLE fuel cut removers BUT the TRL VFCC is an ADJUSTABLE Fuel Cut RAISER. (It can raise the fuel cut threshold and also (with the correct setting) just be an ordinary remover as well. I think that's what they meant. regards Pete