THOR Racing

Saturday October 25th - 11 Brindley Rd, Bayton Rd Ind Est, Exhall, Coventry, CV7 9EP MAP THOR Race Engineering are opening their doors to the club for a day to try out the 1600BHP Dynapack chassis dynamometer and to talk about the services we can offer. Open to all fellow Supra owners, friends and family. Normal runs are £60 but with the club discount you get a run for £50. See just how bad or good your Apexi, Blitz or HKS gear has been setup, then rectify it. There will be a burger van on site and we will be doing power runs all day. First people on the dynapack should be there for 8am We are in Coventry, 5mins from Jn3 off M6, onto B4113 Bedworth, Left at Roundabout, 2nd traffic lights turn right, 3rd left onto Brindley Rd, 1/2 way down is THOR on the left. We can only accomodate up to 15 power runs in a day, so if you are interested please book your slot now by emailing [email protected] Regards Pete

and talking of undertrays, mine bit the tarmac and disintergrated last week (105Kmiles on the clock). So are there alteratives to the Toyota stock one out there? Anyone making any?? Shall I just get one from a scrap car? Regards Pete

Rest assured the version 2.3 and 3.0 are IDENTICAL in operation. ALL I have done is make the unit smaller and easier to get into. V3.0 = 35*35*10mm with a flip top lid. V2.3 = 70*50*25mm with 4 screws holding the lid on. BOTH have a Fuel Cut dial or F.C. and OVERBOOST dial or O'Boost. The text is only different as there is physically no room to print all the letters. The Setup is the same for both versions. For a SUPRA TT you should NOT have to change from the default settings anyway. It should work for most of you 99% of the time 1st time. Default: F.C. = position 8 O.Boost = Position B Any VFCC's sold by me since end of June will be the NEW version 3.0 Regards Pete

Is the sensor plumbed into the same point as the stock MAP sensor? Does it hold 1.1 or peak and drop back down as you have to be above fuelcut for 2s before it activates (as already mentioned) Regards Pete

If we have the work then yes. So we will open for a booking, but not normally at present. Please ring to book a day though as we have a lot of shows this summer and weekends are therefore busy already. Regards Pete

It does as you have still got the operator controling the dyno and your car is still preventing other cars from using it. So whether you do it or us, it's still sitting on the dyno. Remember you get 10% off (i.e. £90 /hr) if you've become a paid up member of the club. We are also doing a bonus scheme, where the more you use us the more discount you get. Up to the max of 15%. So for each visit you get an extra 1% off. So 5 trips being a member of a club gets you to 15%. Which you now receive for life. Obviously a non-club member would take 15 trips to get 15% and ALL show events are at 15% discount anyway, hence no extra discount available on the show days. Regards Pete

The Dyno measures.... TORQUE at the wheel hubs, Calculates the POWER at the hubs, manifold PRESSURE , air inlet TEMPERATURE (depending on where you put the probe, could be air filter, intercooler, radiator etc etc) AIR FUEL RATIO (or Lambda) with a Bosch LSU wideband O2 sensor. You get all this in just a power run Fees are as follows.... Fixed fee Dyno Run (£60), you get max of 6 consecutive runs. Dyno tuning/diagnostic work (£100/hr) All Mechanical and Electrical labour (£40/hr) Paid up club members get 10% off all labour and dyno rates (not parts! and not at shows.) Club bookings get 15% We have a 3000sq ft warehouse for mechanical modifications and electrical equipment installation. We can fit anything from exhausts, air filters to CAMs and engines. We can also fit any electrical tuning gadget, APEXi, HKS, Blitz etc including full replacement engine management units. These can all be programmed using the precision of our Chassis Dynamometer (1600BHP and 4400ft/lb torque). Finally we are based in North Coventry and hope to see some more Supras Regards Pete

If you want an IDEA on flywheel power then yes, but I say 20% to eveyone, no matter what the car. As I said before I don't want to get drawn into an argument I cannot prove. BUT it's far easier if we all quoted power at the wheels, then there would be no argument in comparison. (except the rolling road used of course..... as always ) Regards Pete

If it's intermittent or the needle sticks at different points then I suspect the converter. If it sticks at exactly the same points no matter if you accelerate slowly or fast then I suspect the needle. Regards Pete

That is the effect rather than the cause. Sorry to be pedantic but the resistance is required to set the drive current for the injector coils. The ECU has a low impedance (resistance) drive output which is current regulated by the external resistance. You need the same resistance for the ECU regardless of JDM or UK so you either make this up with 100% JDM Injectors at 13.8ohms or have 2.8ohm injectors and a 11ohm external resistor pack for UK. If you overdrive the coils (too much current caused by too low resistance) they will undoubtedly work for a while but on high load (WOT) they will get hotter and hotter as the coils heat up and eventually will fail. Look at the maths. 12V voltage feed to the injectors. (ground switched) Current = Voltage / Resistance So 12V / 13.8R = 0.87A But use 2.8R UK spec injectors and you get.... 12V / 2.8R = 4.29A 4.29A is far larger than the original 0.87A Either the injector coil will burn out or the output drive from the ECU would fail. (Modern ECU's are limited to a maximum current output which is probably why the injectors would last longer than you would first expect in this condition) Similarly you wouldn't fit high impedance injectors on the UK spec car without removing the resistor pack as this time you'd get too little current flow and the injectors would take longer to turn on and hence effect the fuel delivery. Regards Pete

Hi, I'd suggest a complete replacement of your speedo converter. Sounds CR*P. This is basic stuff. I can recommend one email me at [email protected] Regards Pete

always ask the person doing it For most manual cars the top gear is an overdrive gear and thus the previous one is normally the 1:1 drive (so 5th for a 6 speed and 3rd for a 4 speed). For auto's I hold them in Drive "D". On the Supra it's easy as we can use the Manual mode to hold the gears. Most other makes of auto are terrible, the power runs are flipping hard to get anything sensible out of as they keep changing gear all the time. We then take a steady control run at 2000rpm to synchronise the Dyno RPM to the car RPM. i.e. work out the rear differential gear ratio if it's unknown. Normally somewhere between 3.8 and 4.2 for most cars. We can make a power run over any RPM range we like. Normally I choose to start the runs at 2000rpm and end at beginning of red line or 500rpm before. So say 6500 or 7000rpm etc. I always ask the owner first if they have a preference. Normally THEY say just "drive it like you stole it". The runs aren't the same as you get on the road as I also program in how long the power run should take. I could do a run over 100s if I wanted for example. Normally I choose 8s There is a settling period of 4s before the run begins (again I choose this) So it's a controlled power run and if I set 4000rpm to be your maximum RPM for the run no matter what you or I do it will NOT go above that. So if you aren't happy to hit the rev limiter (which I prefer not to) then I can set this 500rpm below. (or whatvever) As Mark says, most cars have aleady reached their max power before rev limiter anyway. So no point. I hope that helped. Edit: This is exactly why we NEVER give you a printout for Flywheel power and ALWAYS give a figure at the wheels. That way you CAN compare a manual Supra with an auto one. If people ask I always use the stock answer of 20% and explain we are not prepared to argue about flywheel power and it's just a guess. Regards Pete

If any of you want to take a trip down to THOR Race Engineering I can show you the Dynapack chassis dyno and possibly put a few cars on. We're in North Coventry. [email protected] Regards Pete

Most of the time taken is attaching the wheels to the absorbers. The actual runs are over in a matter of minutes. (6 runs in total) At JAE we were able to get cars turned around every 40mins. (Our aim was 30!) So this time were are booking every 45mins to allow a bit of breathing space at shows to talk to people about it. If you want to book a time please choose (nothing booked yet) and email me at [email protected] Regards Pete

You can still use my box to do this. It has both 5:8 and 1:1 output signals so you can use the 1:1 and also the +/- 10% scaling (in 1.5% steps) to adjust. But only if this is NOT the natural non-linearity with the dial. Regards Pete

They didn't need anything better? Probably. Yes. It's still a mystery. Some things I do know..... 1: Low cylinder pressure requires less secondary voltage to jump the plug gap hence high cylinder pressure (increased boost) requires higher secondary voltage. 2: Richer mixtures require less secondary voltage to jump the plug gap and hence leaner mixtures (what we end up with at the limit) requires a higher secondary voltage. Regards Pete

I guess the answer is Dunno and No ? Anyone? Pete

Problems do occur and normally all within the first 6 months of ownership, then it's plain sailing. You just need to get to know your car. Personally my Supe has done 105Kmiles now and only ever had one major failure of the water pump (my own fault for not using the recommended lubricant in the water) Stick with it. They are probably simple things to fix. Toyotas are generally (99% of the time) very reliable. I'd get someone who knows about cars and especially the Supra to give it the once over, if you don't feel able. 65K miles is nothing. Except brakes and oil (normal consumables) you should not really have to replace anything at this stage. HOWEVER 65K miles is CAM belt change time though and I would recommend you do this a.s.a.p. if it's not already been done. Regards Pete

As per Billing (JAE) event all shows and future club bookings are £50 per run. (£60 normally) Yes more than a standard rolling road but others will testify it's a great piece of kit and no worries about tyre slip plus you get 100 people standing around watching Regards Pete ps. I'll have to get John to arrange a Dyno day at THOR. (North Coventry)

Cannot remember the spec but they are normal bayonet type. (Twist) BUT you do have to take rather a lot of the back of the speedo apart to actually get to them. PITA Regards Pete

Maybe the question should be would a higher secondary spark voltage be better and has anyone exchanged the stock coil packs for bigger ones? i.e. bigger and more powerful spark and thus more complete burn of mixture. Well actually this means you can jump a larger spark plug gap which is always better. Regards Pete

THOR Race Engineering will be there, with our portable 1600BHP chassis dynamometer. So power runs available on the day. Check out the billing photos on http://www.thor-racing.com/news.htm You can also check out my ugly mug in some of the photos, I'm in the driving seat of course Regards Pete

The auto box illumination L,2,D,R are tiny bulbs. The colours are determined by the speedo facia. I replaced mine (fiddly) with blue LED's. Regards Pete

I'll just add my 2p. http://www.trlperformance.com/personal/EL_Dash/el_dash.html Doesn't help your situation much. Sorry Regards Pete

Just in case members don't realise...... Using a scaled speed signal 5/8ths (MPH) to run the cruise means all low and high cruise set points are scaled by 8/5ths. Also the step increment change has also been scaled by 8/5ths. So it will have lower resolution when trying to set a set speed. You may find it O.K. at 79MPH and again at 81MPH but you cannot reach 80MPH, or similar. Just a side effect of the change but well worth it for the gain of cruise to 112MPH. Max 70MPH now 70*8/5 = 112MPH Min 25MPH now 25*8/5 = 40MPH etc Regards Pete