THOR Racing

Yep and if you didn't know already this is a simple fact of taking the MPH conversion signal from the speedo to the cruise. It's a FREE mod. Regards Pete

You MAY!!! be confusing the speed limiter with FUEL CUT. Yes I know the speed limiter is the most likely. BUT You can hit fuel cut if you do FLOOR IT at high speed high load etc etc. Especially if you get the red warning triangle and engine warngin light come on. This coupled with probably crap fuel in it (doubt they put Super Unleaded in?) and also worn out plugs (or wrong plugs) could also feel like juddering or missing at high speed. When I purchased mine it had cheep import tyres (hard as nails and slipped everywhere), normal dyno oil (which burnt up in the first 1000 miles) and shit plugs. On the outside it looked great, shame they had to spoil the first few thousand miles with a cheap service. Since I changed the lot and always put good stuff in her I've never had a problem since. To be delimited they'd have had to have done something to the car, so why didn't they convert it to MPH as well?? Very odd but this is never normally a major problem and can be easily fixed. Regards Pete

Hybrid prices are around 400->600 (Typically 500) PER turbo. To get one done you may as well get the other so hence £1000. (This is also based on an EXCHANGE basis. i.e. you give your old one up) BUT remember you need someone to exchange the turbos as well and the labour costs would be another £500 So for a full twin hybrid swap you're looking at £1500 (Having said that I did mine as I was just bored with my stock ones!) Regards Pete

Doubt it. It sounds like the interior lighting fuse. Always stick to the recommended value. If you have to fit anything as a quick fix try something smaller! At least it'll blow if something is wrong. In your case your car would be on fire before the fuse blew (Sorry. Scaremungering) But it is very risky to fit the wrong type of fuse. It's rated to the type of cable and the load the cable can take. You'd find if anything did go wrong the cable would heat up and that's when the sheath melts and can then ignite something else in the car. You don't want an electrical fire. Good job you spotted it. Even if it was changed for a reason. i.e the MINES ECU then the cabling should have also doubled in rating. I doubt that very much! Oh and "check the fuses" does mean ALL normally Glad it's sorted now. It's always the simple things to look for first. Regards Pete

I had BCPR7ES in my Supra. (Thought they were BKR7E's) and they are fine to 18psi (Not sure above as I don't go there!) I would say that BCPR7ES BKR7E BKR7EVX Are all O.K. up to 18psi. easily. Regards Pete

In fact it's shown on the diagram that Martin posted the link to. A/C Unit If your cigarette lighter socket doesn't work then it'll be the CIG fuse. Pete

These aren't engine management ECU fuses as such. It's just called ECU-B. Not sure why. Anyway. It was in the drivers kick panel. Just check them all ! Pete

May or may not be related but my ECU-B fuse had blown (10Amp located in the drivers kick panel) The symptoms were 1: The AC unit would keep forgetting the last settings. (So when ever I turned the ignition on I had to press all the buttons again) i.e. had to hit AUTO 2: The rear boot lock must have some kind of dead lock as I couldn't open it with the key. Only the pull handle inside by the drivers seat. This was the result of no permenant live to the AC controller. (Hence ECU-B fuse blown) I don't think it's this as you've checked the fuses already. Pete

This sounds very much like a spark plug problem, the plugs spark is being blown out by the higher charge pressure. Have you got a cooler grade plug fitted than standard? If not you need to. Try NGK 6097 (BKR7E) (or the BKR7EVX as I've just fitted this morning) So many people have the same problem and it's always been plugs. You MUST fit lower temerature plugs when increasing boost. Bosch recommend a grade lower for each 15BHP increase. If you see no engine warning lights it is NOT fuel cut. I bet you'll find your problem feels very similar to hitting the rev limiter. Regards Pete

They have grass roads and we have pot holes!!

To help you can use the pictures on my site. http://homepage.ntlworld.com/peter.betts/supra/TechTips/Spoiler.htm I think that once you've removed the bar and motor you'll see there is nothing much the blade can connect to. Might be easier just getting a replacement lip (not nose cone)from bommex or whoever. Pete

Honestly I kid you not. The japanese regulations state this. It's because they have a number of grass only roads. I've asked the Vehicle Certification Aurthority to confirm this, but I do know 100% that all Jag's exported to Japan have to have the CAT Temp sensor fitted (and I'm sure it's for the reason above) Regards Pete

See http://www.trlperformance.com/supra and click on Active Spoiler link, circuit diagram and Manual Control. You'll see at the bottom the connector A12. If you remove the motor you'll have to short out pins 3 and 4 of the connector. As for fitment of the IC I would think that at the very least the motor has to go and probably the control arm as this is a big bar sitting right where the IC wants to go. Pete

The Japanese have a strange law that means they have to sense the temperature of the underside of the car body. The hottest part being the CAT exhaust. This is apparently because they have a lot of dry grass verges in Japan and it's the risk of fire. So it's there to detect a too high a temperature which would cause the verge to ignite. (sounds daft but apparently true) Anyway for your purposes it doesn't matter what you do with it. Just leave it connected to the loom connector and tie it up out of the way. (it does not have to be inserted into the exhaust as it serves us in the UK no useful purpose. Regards Pete

I would. I've seen quite a few Supras now that have blown stock BOV's, including my own. The excessive boost just kills them. As I had a HKS BOV already I decided to just take it off and block up the pipes. Been like a rocket ever since. Pete

Well unless someone is able to correctly say what has or hasn't been done to their car it makes it pretty difficult to diagnose problems. I was referring to Jez and not Dudesvr by the way. Pete

For a stock car this is NORMAL. The torque curve is straight. This is the way Toyota intended. Nice smooth transition from one to both turbos working, you should not be able to tell which is which on a stock car. Don't worry. Cheers Pete

You can change settings any time as you drive, it's essential that you do so! i.e. it starts to rain, knock it up to WET. The control knob only selects a voltage between 0->5V anyway. So you could put in a variable resistor or slider pot and choose an infinite number of settings if the 4 you've got weren't enough. Pete

I think you are missing the point of the VSV. It's purpose is to make a non-linear actuator (the wastegate control actuator) more linear. (or binary!) Helping prevent a gradual bleed of the boost past the wastegate during boost build up. The VSV is OPEN for LOW boosts allowing any pressure build up on the wastegate actuator to bleed away to the air filter side. When the boost is high enough the VSV shuts (under ECU control) and this causes a large increase in the pressure on the actuator which snaps OPEN. This way you can get to the MAX boost quickly as you're not venting boost past a small opening in the wastegate valve during boost build up. This is all because you have a two port wastegate actuator. A lot of cars only have a single port one so hence most if not all the boost controllers out there only control the single inlet and cap the second port off on the actuator. You don't or cannot control the VSV to close later (well you could! but...). The Stock VSV is not built for pulsed operation and just delaying when the VSV closes would only serve to give you a spike in the boost. As soon as you shut the VSV the wastegate opens and dumps the boost, as the VSV cannot be pulsed (like a normal boost controller solenoid can) you now cannot pulse the bleed on and off and so the boost falls to the natural level. Whoopee. You got 18psi for 1s !! then back to 11psi I've experimented and you can (as I have done) put your boost controller solenoid in place of the VSV but I found a better degree of control was before the wastegate actuator, bleeding straight from the turbo. Probably the mechanics of the actuator that let me down there. Anyway. I've ranted on long enough..... Cheers Pete

You to say I cured my noisy radio whenever I pressed the brake pedal by replacing a broken relay (in my relay fog lamp mod) It had fallen down into the rear wing and was being damaged by water spray. It's no located somewhere dry (like I tell other people to do anyway ) The same relays will control the normal operation of the brake lights. Might not be this. Pete

I cured my noise at the weekend. It was my Fog Lamp conversion relays which had become detached from their mounting and were now damaged from water spray. I've since located them in a dry position (like I tell everyone else ) Must have been finding a return path via the knackered relays whenever I pressed the brake pedal. Made worse when the lights were on. Regards Pete

It is an ECU software feature that shuts down the flow of fuel to the injectors (hence Fuel Cut) if the manifold boost pressure rises above a threshold (set in software) You cannot fit a "Fuel Cut" Whatyou fit is a "Fuel Cut Eliminator/defencer/controller" This removes the fuel cut or in the case of a controller raises it to another level. Do a search on the web for more info on this. It's a common term (Boost Cut or Fuel Cut) More later..... food now! Regards Pete

Ahh!!!! What a load of old cr*p! Sorry but I get fed up with so called tuning specialists talking out of their backsides! I'm never normally this articulate but lets check the obvious things first before wasting your hard earned cash! Ummm it won't help with fueling. It'll just let you know if fueling is a problem or not. i.e. if the engine is going lean. AFR = Air Fuel Ratio i.e. how much unburnt oxygen there is in the exhaust gas. Senses this by reading the O2 sensor. A car under fuel cut or hitting it will not suffer from Knock (detonation). No idea what you mean by pre-detonation. Do you mean pre-ignition? Which is totally different to knock. I'd check your spark plugs. Fueling (which if you run Optimax just on it's own should be fine.) Sounds like bad advice to me from someone who doesn't understand performance cars, especially the Supra. Juddering or slight misfiring at high RPM can be confused with knock (by some people) but I find it's normally down to the spark plug types used. (especially at the mod level most of use have on this list) Also if you're hitting fuel cut are you sure you're not confusing the two effects. As for price! Check out my site for comparison. I'm not saying you need an AFR meter. I doubt the narrow band O2 sensor will tell you much more than it's rich or lean. If it ever get's to the lean part at wide open throttle. Say goodbye to the engine. I strongly believe you haven't got this problem. But an AFR meter is a nice gadget to have, just I'm not sure you NEED one yet! When was the car last serviced? What plugs do you have? Had you ever diluted the fuel with normal unleaded prior to this? What's the history of the mods and when did this occur? Regards Pete

This is exactly why I put the warning on my site (but about fuel not ceramic turbos I admit) http://www.trlperformance.com/vfcc.html This is also why I added an overboost protection facility. i.e. I remove fuel cut at the stock setting of 15psi and replace it at a user selectable pressure. By default I leave them at 19psi. So the turbos can go on and generate more boost but the overboost setting will trap any boost above the NEW fuel cut threshold, set by the VFCC. So once again you're safe. Or safer than without it. The device can also remove fuel cut altogether if you wish to boost higher and have sorted out the fueling yourself. Regards Pete

Yes the TRL VFCC (FCD) will only have an active OVERBOOST protection at the maximum readable pressure measurement from the MAP sensor. i.e. you cannot set the overboost setting above about 18.5 (19psi) as this is the max the MAP sensor can read. (giving 4.95V out) If you set the overboost to any other setting it will not be able to trap the overboost and initiate fuel cut. if you look at the VFCC Settings you'll see that the setting close to 4.95V is B. This is the default position I set all VFCC's to. If you change the setting to C,D,E,F; the VFCC will now ONLY remove fuel cut and you have to look after the overboost yourself. It is a limitation of the stock MAP sensor. It is also assumed that if you intend to go above 19psi then you should really have had other items added to aid correct fueling etc. I'd be very careful in thinking itis fuel cut, when in fact it might be detonation and/or spark plugs dying/breaking down at high boost. This MAY be fuel cut but remember...... Fuel Cut is not only a function of boost pressure but TIME! Fuel cut will ONLY happen if you have exceeded the maximum boost threshold setting for say 2s. Now 2s is a long time and you could have strayed from the new overboost 19psi max and be closer to 22psi or whatever by the time fuel cut happens. The only cure for this is to reduce the gain of the boost controller, the attack rate to the boost setting selected is too great leading to massive overshoot. This is the thing with tuning these boost controllers. You have to find a critically damped setting that will work in the majority of cases. Sounds like you're still tweaking to find this critical point. (currently you're underdamped) Regards Pete