THOR Racing

from the information given you are correct. The fact you had to change the cruise signal to get it to work above 70MPH means the odometer output signal must still have been untouched 1:1 (i.e. you still have it in KPH or have used the 1:1 output from the TRL DSC converter) and thus yes the PPS will still be receiving the 1:1 signal as well. Regards Pete

What other mods do you have?

Yes it was us you spoke to and yes I saw and reciprocated the flashing of lights We weren't lost but off to the DonnyShow in Essex on Sunday. Coventry to Bath to Harlow and back to Coventry. Quite a journey at such slow speeds. But I have to say the Landcruiser has emense pulling power. Unbelieveable. The slope into our workshop is quite steep but in low ratio centre diff locked 4WD mode it pulled a 3 tonne trailer up into the workshop without me even knowing anything was attached. We're off to TRAX on 7th Sept, National Kit and Performance car show (13th/14th Sept), Goodwood Sports and Supercar day on 23rd Sept and Jap Performance (Santa Pod) on 12th October. Hope to see you there and maybe sooner at our workshop Any members wanting electronics fitting or mechanical work carried out give me a shout. [email protected] Regards Pete

How many miles have you done since new pads? You need to bed them in, particularly if your discs are slightly worn and uneven. Few hundred miles. (Not just motorway driving) Hopefully you didn't do any heavy breaking in this time. Have you thought maybe a call to JPS (Leon) might work better? I'm sure he'll be able to advise as he's just done the job. Regards Pete

This is a partial conversion I believe to true twin. Well at least it removes the second turbo prespool control. Just put the ends of the pipes back onto the VSV (behind it in the photos) and try it. The VSV is the thing it's tie wrapped to. It's a personal preference thing. Some like the twin setup and others the sequential. As to why. No idea. Again someone elses preference. You won't hurt it if you try putting it back. Regards Pete

Basically yes, and if your were in the Midlands I'd say come to us. Although in my 4 years of tuning Supras you'd be hard pushed to get much more than 18psi on standard fuel regulator,pump and 440cc injectors and still have some protection against v.hot weather conditions. You shouldn't always take it to the max, if it's your every day car. Regards Pete

In the OFF state they are closed and in the ON state they are open (to flow air). You need to really see all VSV's working in parallel with one another, using a datalogger. It's v.hard to tell what's going on by watching LED's or similar attached to the VSV's. Remember they are also affected by other things like boost pressure, temperatures and so on so the description is a basic/fundamental one and not a forumla for operation. Regards Pete

Someone has removed your sequential turbo setup and made it into a true twin setup. So both 1 and 2 turbos spool up together rather than just 1 and then 1 and 2. Regards Pete

If you mean the THOR site then sorry we're uploading a new site this afternoon. The old re-direction from my other web space has been removed in order to make this change possible. Try again this evening or early tomorrow morning. Regards Pete Pictures can be seen in the TRADERS seciton of this BBS.

Just put a few pictures in the traders section of the unit in operation. Changes to the http://www.thor-racing.com website hopefully uploaded this evening with more info. Sorry to hijack this section but it's most of you who would be interested in viewing them:) Regards Pete

Yes. The VFCC (Volage Fuel Cut Controller) or FCD ( Fuel Cut Defencer) will only prevent damage to the engine by stopping overboost via the fuel cut method. To avoid even hitting this new OVERBOOST theshold you'll need some other method like boost controller or restrictor to do this. Fit a restrictor if you hit 18psi without any mods to the turbo control. Regards Pete

Yes. Connect the cruise ECU speed signal input wire to the MPH version of the speed signal. Details on my site. http://www.trlperformance.com/dsc.html Regards Pete

in that case check out my site on speedo conversions. There is a diagram that shows the speed signal wire on the speedometer. http://www.trlperformance.com/dsc.html Regards Pete

if you mean the SPEED sensor signal then it's the pink and silver banded wire in the top right of the bottom most (nearest your feet) connector. Pete

check out TRL VFCC Setup instructions. Regards Pete

Most of that is down to correct installation and wiring! My box has the correct outputs and with correct/proper wiring everything that's meant to be will be Don't have many complaints about them, as for any better? Umm. If you're saying that after 50MPH you start to get more and more notiveable error then this sounds like a percentage error offset. i.e. at 50MPH it's reading 55 or at 100 it's ready 110. (10% say for example) This is a PERCENTAGE error that the box can correct. The box can correct OFFSET errors but only with me changing the software inside so it's not a stock unit. Please note: All speedos are inherently inaccurate. Make sure you're not just seeing it's natural non-linearity. and as for installers..... I don't know, used to be me when I worked in Camberly but not any more We're now in Exhall (North Coventry). Regards Pete

For a start the TRL DSC has an extra output on it which is a buffered copy of the original speed signal. This is so you can convert the odometer to Miles and cut it's output drive wire and replace with the one from the DSC. Also check out my personal site for details of the odo conversion methods.... Pete's Personal Supra site. Regards Pete

I can correct for offset errors as well. But this would be a special and in most cases cheaper to replace the needles correctly (provided you have the skills) Regards Pete

For those of you not familiar with the Dynapack graph for Torque, you take the figures displayed and divide by the final drive ratio (in this case 3.4) to get 440Nm (324.5 lb-ft) Also the peak was 382.8BHP and not the 374BHP listed at the bottom (this was a marker on a previous run) Plus all the BHP figures are at the hub and are DIN corrected. Regards Pete

As far as I know version 3.7 software and above didn't have this problem. They can ALL be reprogrammed so for a small fee to cover postage and the 5mins it'll take to reprogram I can correct all the older ones if required. This is true for ALL version 3.0 PCB's If you are unsure take a look inside and note the version number of the printed circuit board. Most of them now have the SW version number written on them. Regards Pete

You can always ring me on my mobile 07802 412969 to discuss, if you think the VFCC (FCD) is at fault, or generally to discuss the problem. Please keep this to working hours. Regards Pete

Maybe THOR can help? 1600HP 4WD Chassis dyno. I'm sure I've mentioned it You have PM Regards Pete

Yes. That deformation idea is a thought. I know I've used water level sensors which require drilling into the bottom of the water tank and inserting the level sensor. Now of course you have no way to reach the inside to the tank so it's a deforming rubber section which is crushed/squashed upon tightening the nut, making a water tight seal. Somthing MIGHT exist like this. I cannot vouch for it's effectiveness on an exhaust. Regards Pete

I only know this as I was mucking about with my electrics (as normal) one day and then next morning noticed my air con had forgotten what I'd set it to. Then the next day when it happened again it struck me as a fault (slow I know!) So a quick trace of what I'd done and a basic "dummmm maybe it's a fuse????? cos I aint done nofink else" crossed my mind. Hey presto it was and then it was fixed. Pete

It's the CIG fuse that's gone. Located in the drivers kick panel (by your right foot). 10 or 15A I think?? Regards Pete