SimonB

Yeah, yours were added by the company that imported it, I remember asking Tim about it ages ago. For some reason some importers think they need them there to pass SVA, which they don't AFAIK, the side repeaters on the bumper are fine.

Doesn't mean you won't! The rule is 70% of light must pass through. Clear glass only allows 86% through, and the side windows are tinted anyway so probably only let 70-80% through anyway. The police can check it with a light meter (or more likely make you go to an MOT place and have them do it). I believe in theory the max fine is £2000!

Facelift differences

I have a suggestion to make sure that we don't get loads of photos entered that block other really good ones from being entered later on (since there's a limit on the number) and also to make sure great photos that lose out in one category can be entered for another without the same car winning twice. How about having an elimination poll when a certain number of photos have been entered (10 say). That could eliminate the bottom 9 which could then be entered in another category if people want. You would end up with one pic left, plus any new ones that people enter afterwards. If we got to 10 again you could have another elimination poll. It would mean you didn't have a whole mass of pics to choose from at the end.

If you have a card reader for your PC you can also download the latest version from the Emanage yahoo group page and a cheapo SD card and make yourself one.

Aha, you have the mythical torque elbow...

Yeah, the black ones kind of faded quite badly so I switched em for the new ones. And I've got a foot long one in the rear (so to speak ).

Pretty much anything over a very slight tint is illegal on the side or front windows, as the standard windows are already tinted slightly. The rear quarter windows you're ok on.

I've still got one of the old http://www.mkivsupra.net stickers on the back window, plus it's on my front and rear number plates and the current club stickers are on both side windows

Actually the Supra has been used as a rally car! Check this out:

Actually it's more a note of it having a badly mapped engine!

See my post in this thread: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=29938 I can't remember now if that was O/S or not, I think it was though. Prices will be out of date no doubt.

On a UK spec with a MAF yeah. Shouldn't do that on a Jspec though - you just get no power.

I can see why Rosie is saying one entry per car, as people tend to enter tons of pictures otherwise, so cutting them down to a shortlist to vote on must take ages. Also then one person has to make that decision, and since the votes are independant the same car can win several categories and then you end up with the 2nd most popular winning. This way you just need to pick your best photo yourself instead of entering loads.

Me too.

Sounds like the symptoms of having the MAP wire disconnected, so I would check the wiring since that's what you've changed.

You could get it to display air temp, provided you know the calibration (i.e. what voltage is what value). The trouble is it can only handle linear inputs (i.e. if 0V = 0 degrees and 1V = 100 degrees then 0.5V = 50 degrees). IIRC the air temp is not linear, so more like 0.5V = 40 degrees or something) so it wouldn't be spot on - pretty close though. Knock is another matter, it's much more complicated than just a pulsed input, you need to filter it and it's really hard to do properly so I wouldn't expect that to work.

With a bankers draft you need to phone the bank really to check it's not a forgery. Course you can't do that on a Sunday...

Well, there's a guy at work with one and every time I start my car anywhere within 100 feet of it the alarm goes off, so they've obviously gone the other way with that one! They do look amazingly like a London taxi.

Don't think they do a Supra kit though.

In a word, no. The best way is on a dyno, you set the dyno to hold a particuar rpm, which it does regardless of the engine load by varying the resistance. Then you go through the different loads and throttle openings and set the fuelling and ignition to produce the most torque safely at that rpm. Then you progress to the next rpm point. It's called steady-state tuning. You can't do that on the road properly as you can't hold a particular point steady, so it's much harder. Once you've got it set up on the dyno you then do things like the acceleration enrichment, overrun etc on the road.

I think it's also the distraction of looking away from where you're going to pick the thing up, press the button to answer it or even worse make a call.

Good, now all they need to do is do the same for people smoking while driving...

I'm pretty sure that's the standard oil filter thread size - you can use any filter including the stock Toyota one or the V8 Lexus one people tend to use. Certainly the remote filter heads that Think sell are standard thread size so will take any filter.

That is a RAR archive split into several parts. It's like a zip file, you need unrar or some other utility to uncompress it.