Rob

I've put a BIG pipe clip round it, so hopefully its thick enough to take the heat. and.............................silence:) except for the engine:baa:

I'm glad you said that, cos I very nearly put a simple black switch in. Anyway got it working again, it was a simple loose connector that got far more complicated by me blowing the fuse when re-connecting it. The switch just had 1,2 and 3 on it, which didn't help matters. Whats the difference between 12v and acc? is 12v "constant" direct from the battery and Acc is ignition 12v or what?

My rear fog lights have caused me to fail the MOT, cos they don't work basically. Having ripped out the dash, there was a connector loose off the back of the (after market) switch, reconnection did not solve the problem, and it turns out that the 10A fuse for dash lights and the little ashtray light had blown. Following the wires from the rear fog switch, it (and the aftermarket front fogs) take their switchable 12V from the ashtray light wire (orange). When I replaced fuse, it blew upon insertion. So the question is, if I have reconnected the fog switch back to front, will that cause the fuse to blow? the fog switch has three connectors and a little red light.

I'll have a check, but just in case where does one buy this "heat resistant stuff";)

For those that are still running stock DPs and cats, is there any risk in removing the shield thingy? The rattling is annoying the hell out of me.

Which won't be a problem as the way things are going, you won't be alllowed to exceed 50 mph anyway. Born to be cynical

Its a mini trackball for the in-car Atari system. All imports have them, doesn't yours?

You could buy one from Toyota, just give them the model number and engine code. I'd be surprised if the two filters were different though.

Just a power run. I've bought brake fluid from them, but no other dealings, sorry.

Sanspeed is on 020 8304 2841 I booked yesterday 1-17 Standard Road Bexleyheath Kent DA6 8DP Cost £25 + VAT Still have both CATS in, and running Super Unleaded for what its worth.

Just had the car dyno'd at Sanspeed, Bexleyheath. RWHP 183 est Flywheel 223, That's with HKS air filter and Hiper exhaust. Can't get the car over 140mph on the airfield either. If I hadn't got married I could have bought a TT.

Actually Darren, if he de-limits the car the speedo will be dramatically under-reading, to the tune of 5/8ths. Mine came with this sort of speedo face, and as a rough compromise there will be a kph "inner ring " which, if a Pete Betts de-limiter is fitted will then read in mph. I got a replacement speedo face from Supraman in Meopham, Kent, about £30-40 but it took weeks and weeks and I only worked a mile from his garage, let alone the emerald isle. If Irish Supra combines the delimiting with a white, or neon, dial upgrade it will probably be quicker although more expensive. Hope that helps.

My dad told me...in his Vespa days, he made fake stick on exhausts out of copper pipe. Must have looked great Dad, no really.

Doesn't the heat melt the solder? or do you use big compression joints?

Sorry, I've been an idiot, mistook the Euro sign for Sterling. Thats about £320? I'd still recommend the HKS Hiper, based on their design experience, and I'm a "name" kinda guy.

Justin (Torque IC) will do you a Hiper for less than £500, and it sounds...well, like a big loud exhaust. I love it, and so do all my neighbours, waving the "OK" sign at me furiously up and down, as I drive past.

Now, I'm prepared to get shot down in flames here, but I think the centre cap piece of the needle pulls off, leaving you to slide the dial on and off, with the centre hole sliding along the needle. You also need to pull out the little plastic "stop" at speedo zero.

Yes mine was about 2-3 hours, lot of soldering, and checking of wire colours "now, is that tangerine with mint stripes, or sunburst with pistachio chevrons???"

Told ya! If you buy next month's Smug Magazine, I'm on the front cover.

I suggest you phone tem up and ask them the precise method they used to remove the crankshaft drive pulley. Mine sheared off as I was braking into a roundabout, which was interesting to say the least.

Thats what mine did, shortly before the pulley sheared off. Have you had your drive belt or cambelt changed by Toyota previously, as their blowtorch method caused all my problems. Otherwise you might just need a new belt at £60 odd.

Perhaps a stiff letter to your highways department, and a photo of a local, big, gouged speedbump "that you hit at only 15mph" would finance a replacement. Only trouble is, it will take about 2 years. My cat pipe, shroud thingy rattles at low revs. I can't think of anyway to wedge it without burning the material I'm wedging with.

Unfortunately not, as the card I used to have had his old number and address. The attached map may help though, he has a yard, factory unit alongside the railway line in Meopham, Kent. There may be an address on the UKSupras website.

Supraman also does 180 mph speedo faces, but do try and get your original back, it is yours after all, and it annoys me the way garages take stuff without asking first. (as an architect) In a building contract, all materials arising from demolition belong to the client, not the contractor/builder.

Yes the bulbs are little push-in and turn jobbies, mounted in the back of the speedo cluster. Toyota charge about £6-7 pound each for them, although I got a handful from SupraMan in Meopham for £3. (they are the same in the MKIII). I had several missing for unknown reasons.