legendswraith

So whe you give it a bootful does it feel like it is holding back severly? If you are gentle on the throttle can you take it up to max rpm? When you do accellerate hard when driving does it seem to want to go then hold back and backfire? If it is as i have said above it sounds like you need a new fuel pump. Take the fuel hose to the rail off and see what the fuel is coming out like, if its a trickle then your fuel pump is gone, but it does sound like mine was when the pump was leaking in the tank and not providing the pressure to the injectors. TBH i chased the fault for a while to it was only Chris Wilson who found it was the pump (after about 15 min) and then it was quite obvious

Nuts or bolts for definate? IF its bolts you can use a bloody big easy out, if its nuts try finding an imperial socket you can get on with a bit of hammer and an impact wrench. Its not exactly textbook and you'll ruin the socket but its quite effective if you only need to do one or 2. Final choice is you dril them out with a HSS drill and replace the stud.

Looked into getting a resistor fited etc today and our friendly sparky reckons because of the current draw the resistor will be about as big as the lambda and it'll get 'kin hot. So i'll be off to get the bung welded in then

Actually out of interest could you put a resistor on the heater wire to trick the ecu into thinking there is a heater there?

So the fitting i have is useless then lol. Ok thay makes sense i'll get the bung welded into the pipe and just run the wideband seperate. Cheers for the response

Have a HKS FCD around somewhere £30 and its yours

Hmm what age do kids need legs? Thanks for the offer i'll definately take you up on it

Lol I get this every other week with the aristo. Considering i bought it because i didn't think a supra would be practical for me and the kids and i wanted to have as much of the best of both worlds as i could. Every week i think of more things i can do to it, then i figure out the cost and its always x amount of thousands to get where i want. However eventually i will have the car i want out of it with all the bells and whistles and i am sure that i will have alot of people saying "you'll never get your money back" but it'll be mine. That said i'll be looking for a friendly volunteer at JAE to do a size check with the kids to see if they will fit I promise to disinfect them and remove all stickiness and snot first

Looked around for some tips on this but everyone seems to fit a bung and the wideband as an additional sensor. What i am looking for is a method of wiring in the wideband in the stock position as i have one of Chris Wilsons adaptor plates. The problem is i am trying to minimise the amount of disrution and extra wires in the bay so i was hoping to tap into the existing wires using the old narrowband sensor plug. From the wiring diagram (although its slightly different on mine) there are 4 inputs which are o2 signal out, heater power in, 12v in and ground. My question to those good with wigglies is can i use the stock ground and 12v position from the old o2 connector and tap the narrowband sim into the same wiring? The only problem i can foresee is the old heater input will be left flapping, i know it will generate a code but will it put it into limp mode? Also if those in the know can give me an idea of the colour scheme and what the wires are i'd be much obliged. I have yellow (o2 to ECU ?) White (Heater?) Brown (Ground) Black/Red stripe (12v in?) Bracketed is what i believe it to be but i'd like confirmation for my own peace of mind Cheers Austin

Would it not be easier to use a FRP for this or should i take it you find the hammering theraputic

On a further note perhaps we should bring more of the "tagging" into effect for offenders but with a running man twist, if they are out past their curfew or somewhere they shouldn't be then their head explodes. Kill or cure

This has more to do with political correctness etc than anything else. The powers that be are more interested in playing politick, and this includes every department from traffic wardens to the chiefs of staff. If you want to get on in a career then you are expected to toe the party line and be all pink and fluffy. Examples such as excuses being made for criminals because they had a bad childhood or being allowed to plead the race card to get away with things are shocking. If there is going to be a shake up of ethics and morals it needs to start at the top with the goverment and everyone needs to be treated equally regardless of standing/race/class/wealth. I also think that anyone in a position of authority who breaks the law should suffer a multiplication factor on the tariff, to help root out corruption. As for these kids they will get the same as Jamie Bulgers killers, a nice time in a prison, good schooling, then a change of identity and a hand out to help them with their lives, and that is ludicrous. If we left a few of these criminals living in fear of retribution for the rest of their lives perhaps it might be a bit more of a discouragement. On the issue of National service, no thanks i was in the mob and there are enough useless muppets causing problems without sending us the dross of society too. Now if we are talking a penal batallion a bit like the French did then i am all for it. Daylight charges over the minefields and all that

Would be really interested in the plenum design as you will need to shape it to get the best flow. Whats your plans with it have you done it from scratch or used a similar item as a guide?

The way i was viewing it was that the ecu fueled for the rush of air created by the depression left from venting the BOV when the car would be slowing/changing disposition. rather than looking at it as the fueling had already been worked out and now the venting had caused a lack of air, so the ecu would be fooled into thinking there was more mass air there than there was. Which would cause the overfuelling. I get it was looking at it from the wrong angle thanks for the info ian

Yes its fairly easy to fix, the hardest bit is getting the serpentine belt back on. 6203.2RSR is the bearing http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/advanced_search_result.php?osCsid=cb74f8119abdd8171cc27dca7d5f8b9d&sort=2a&search_in_description=0&keywords=6203.2RSR+&osCsid=cb74f8119abdd8171cc27dca7d5f8b9d&x=16&y=12er (link to bearing supplier) Take the pump out and split it remove the bearing and press a new one in, you'll also want to get a new seal kit from toyota. There is nothing to stripping them just be wary you don't lose any of the fins from the rotor when you split it.

Makes sense as well, when you dump the air you have a greater ratio of fuel to air. I ordered the recirc fitting to give it a go anyway, personally as i said i haven't had a problem but for 5 minutes fitting and £20 its not worth ignoring it.

Lift foot when accellerating . But yes i understand, by creating the depression further on and increasing the air flow causes a rich condition. May be looking for a recirc kit myself as i have experienced a lesser form of that but i put that down to the car running rich as is. However if i can get some flame out the back as well i may jsut keep it to deter tailgaiters

If you are not desperate for them i can give you a lend of a set and pop them over at JAE. Never tried to fit them on the tiens but they can't be far off

Glove box on sticky pads at a jaunty angle i covered all the bases .

I assume its from the dump which changes the readings the MAF gets. I also assume as mines an auto and doesn't dump through the gears is why i have seen no effect. Will have to look at it when i have the wideband in

Out of interest did you have it in the stock location or just in front of the TB on an elbow?

Think the problem is that most shy away from the vvti supras due to the complexity of the system etc when everything goes tits up or adding bits too it so most of the supras on here are MAP based rather than MAF as the vvti is. If you put the BOV on the throttle body side i would imagine that would reduce the Rich/Lean problems as the dump would be further away from the sensor etc so less variation. That said mines in the stock position and i have had no problems as yet. Also see the thread on whether a BOV is needed besides for the noise makes for good reading

I'm about to fit my wideband in the stock location brian so will be able to do you a stock o2 if they are the same

the vvti uses the same jumper settings IIRC apart from the ignition jumper needs to be set at 12v rather than the suggestion it gives in the manual

You may also want the AFR cable if you plan to use the self tuning feature or log your AFRs from the EMU as well