legendswraith

Not that i have ever had chance to use it yet but from what i interpret its basically foot to the floor whilst standing still puts it into "launch" mode then you set up the EMU to the best launch conditions which it automatically applies when the brake is released.

Take the belt off and check for play in the pulley side, if it wobbles about everywhere then the bearings gone. Its relatively easy to strip the pump and replace the bearing if you can get access to a bearing press and it will only cost about £10 or less to get a new bearing.

All good stuff, theres only so much researching via tech publications and vendors sites can do theres no substitute for finding out from someone who's actually experienced it. Give it a month or so and i'll invest in one. Any recommendations on sources etc?

So its the ignition that causes a problem as well, is this on the individual coiled engine or the vvti with the lost spark? Would fitting something along the lines of a DLi clear it up. My own initial experiments with it prior to looking at the higher stall was it was more of a lurch control than a launch. Nothings ever simple is it

Just the job that was exactly the information i wanted. Prevents me from having to buy one then eventually buy another.

Have you got the right pump yet? As i did the opposite and got the wrong pump. I would have to check the part numbers but if its the one you need can do you a straight swap

I'm looking at the possibility of setting up the EMU launch control feature and i have been informed that its more than likely a no go without a high stall converter. I have had a search and found some information on selection etc but i am looking for some advice from those with the experience of fitting/using one. Currently the car is BPU+ with a set of hybrids going on as soon as i build them and i don't want to discount the idea of going single in the future , so i want some form of futureproofing. From what i can gather the usual range is a 3600-3800 stall converter, but is it a straight fit to the Jspec vvti box or are other things required? I am aware of requiring an aux oil cooler etc. So any recommendations and information would be gratefully received

The MAF sensor is the black lump that has wires and a plug going to it and its on the metal flange/pipe that comes from the airbox, or if you have a later version its on the black connector that looks like a bit of drainpipe. The vacuum lines are fairly apparent you will be able to see them in the middle of the engine roughly in line with the topmounts

The GS300 uses the 2jz-ge so they should be identical if its the non vvti version

What kind of shape is the MAF in? also if you have a strut brace on the car have you crushed the vacuum lines coming off the top of the throttle body? Have a look around the vacuum lines anyway especially the one on top of the throttle body, when that split on my GS300 it ran rough as a bears bum.

Right, i was looking at it from the point of view that it would be a constant flow pump of a set value and then you match a restrictor to whichever atomiser you decide is appropriate. In which case you would need a restrictor as the restriction to the flow = pressure. From what you posted i assume the difference is that little as to be a negligeable effect

Is it possible that the restrictor is being fitted to match the pressure with the injector? As its worked out as pressure drop over area perhaps the original pressure/flow is worked out with a certain sized injector if you used a larger injector then you may need to restrict the flow to maintain the pressure. Hope that makes sense

Its very difficult to get Garrett to sell you anything directly, plus they tend to only list their distributors etc for contact details. Might have more luck approaching honeywell who own garrett

both the same CT12 turbos

I definately have one off my old GS300 but i can't remember what side it is, i have a feeling its the passenger side as i wanted the driver side and never fitted it. If i can dig it out i'll post up

If you do attempt to stop drill it you will need to use special drills to prevent tearing it to pieces, i can't remember their names but they are basically a ceramic type drill that look like an elongated triangle. Also if you do any work at all on the CF make sure you wear a mask its really very bad for you to breathe in the dust

Looked a bit more into this today (was very slow at work). Finally got the idea to gel, its not forces OOB that cause the torsional vibs its the energy imparted at an angle onto the crank that induces it (in a nutshell). However something i have been thinking about is the harmonic balancers are manufactured to work at a particular resonance and absorb the vibrations within a certain band. So when you go BPU or even further you change the torque curves and inputs on the crank which would have an effect on the point torsional resonance will occur. Assuming that resonance does occur at a different point when you change the torque loadings the harmonic balancer on the front of the crank is now useless as it resonates at a different time to when the crank does. I would think there would be some small benefit but the main reason the harmonic balancer is there would be lost. Also assuming that is correct then the aftermarket balancers (Titan on mine i think) would have to be manufactured to work at the right frequencies too. Admittedly this is conjecture from some reading etc i did today and when i talked to the guys who do dynamic balancing and said torsional vibration they looked at me as if i had told them i took a dump in their lunch boxes, so i can't get any input atm from our guys who do this kind of thing on the gas turbines. Would be interested if anyone has anymore information.

Its turned out to be the PS pump.

I would imagine it isn't carbon fibre in the true laid up way as in a matrix of lay up epoxy and CF weave and then bagged vacuumed and cooked. Its more than likely as you say GRP core with a few plys of CF over it then laquered to keep it nice and shiny. A full CF one would be cracking through if that appeared.

There is no difference when the aircon is put on and to be honest i'm not 100% on the PS yet first instinct is that it feels slightly different but i'm not sure if thats psychological due to hoping its the pump. Think removing the belt will speak volumes and cut alot of potential problems out of the equasion

The car developed a strange noise from the front of the engine last night, and despite searching i can't really find any posts that describe the noise the same as i am hearing from my engine. The noise is basically coming from the front left (right as you are looking from the front) and appears to be linked in with the rpm as the frequency of the noise increases with engine rpm. the only way i can describe it is like a belt rubbing against plastic or similar, visually i can't see anything wrong with the aux belt and i have yet to remove the engine cover to make sure the timing belt is not fraying. Apart from removing the aux belt and seeing if the noise vanishes has anyone had experience of a similar problem/noise. I am really hoping its trivial or the PS pump. Cheers Austin

No idea to be honest, i only know of some of the repairs due to doing comps on Harriers, but i would be wary of taking it to a random bodyshop as they may not see too much CF work. having had a bit more of a look around it appears that it could possibly be laquered as well, in which case its even easier but i would still make sure whoever does it is au fait with CF

Cheers for that, basically from what i can gather if you do a full engine rebuild and can get the flywheel, crank and pulley balanced dynamically as a set then you could do without the harmonic dampening, but if you ever need to replace either the flywheel or the pulley you would have to resume the use of a harmonic balancer. So basically its safe to replace the other pulleys but leave the harmonic dampened pulley alone

If its cracking then the crack will be in the epoxy that makes up the matrix when they lay up the bonnet. CF can be fixed but you will possibly end up with a patch that will not run in the same direction as the rest of the fibres. Is the crack through to the CF matting yet or is it superficial, as you may be able to get it filled with aeropoxy or similar and ground back in to look as it should be

No link , but i understand what you mean makes sense thinking about it. Would like the link though if you can repost it