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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Power Steering Pump problem / Crank pulley problem...


Fizzy T
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My power steering has failed on me,It started playing up on Friday under low rev situations after I discovered my battery terminal cover had decided to go on a holiday...

 

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856354_10152628451495150_1160225383_o by MrfizzyT

 

Leaving for work this morning and there's nothing,zero pressure at all and not a drop of fluid has been lost. I've not been under the car to look yet as it's snowing outside. The power steering pulley spins as normal. Paul Whiffin has suggested it might be the crank pulley? (he told me that prior to me mentioning the PAS pulley still rotates).

 

Any ideas?

 

Oh and for reference Inchscape Toyota Basingstoke won't grant any discounts for club memebers and quoted me £612 for a new power steering pump. Camberley Auto Factors do one on an exchange basis for £299.99

 

Ebay has a few 1JZ pumps on there and one 2JZ pump but obviously I'm on here for information first ;)

 

Cheers in advance.

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Had a look at my car today but it was getting dark,didn't have time to get any tools out. I'm starting to believe it is the crank pulley causing the issue.

 

Looks to me like the rubber ring on the centre of the pulley has bulged out or at least started to.Must be losing traction and spinning on the side.I'd tip ex it to check but don't have any.

 

image

2jz crank pulley by MrfizzyT

 

New crank pulley time.

Edited by Fizzy T (see edit history)
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I think it's best I just replace it. I'm going to buy a 2nd hand PAS pump just in case I'm wrong about it being the crank pulley though,It's good to have spares :D

 

Now who to buy my crank pulley off? Paul @ Whifbitz seems to be a nice guy. I doubt my credit card will stop at just a pulley there though.

 

There's SRD though who stock the pulley quite a bit cheaper although it says Toyota as the brand I'm unsure if it's a pattern part... Any clues?

Edited by Fizzy T (see edit history)
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Guest Budz86

Do the tip ex test first mate. Lee is doing mine at the moment and it was making a whining noise but no issue with the p/s. If the crank pulley wasn't able to turbo that it would be the same for water pump etc. It's quite a bit of work to change it so worth looking at other things first.

 

I know there has been no p/s fluid lost but try bleeding the system first and if you get no joy, maybe look at swapping the pump out. Should be able to get a low mileage one from Keron fairly cheaply.

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Leaving for work this morning and there's nothing,zero pressure at all and not a drop of fluid has been lost. I've not been under the car to look yet as it's snowing outside. The power steering pulley spins as normal. .

 

Those 2 statements say to me the crank pulley is working fine. How do you know theres 0 pressure, steering effort? Is there any noise?

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By zero pressure I just meant there was absolutely no help from the pump to turn the wheels. That was on a very cold morning,it was odd today that I fired it up and I started to get PAS back but then it failed completely again...seems rather off and on so I'm not driving it till it's sorted.

 

Going to buy a pump regardless if it is at fault just so I can start hoarding supra spares haha My mind is swinging back and forth from crank to pump crank to pump. I just want to boost again :(

 

Oh and yes there's a squeaky noise coming from the crank area,The PAS made clicking noises at me just to interfere with my diagnosis. Maybe they both want a good fiddling :eyebrows:

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Guest Budz86

Sounds like the pump needs bleeding which is a 5 minute job. You could be really unlucky and find the crank pulley has gone too! Worth checking the tension on the fan belt before wading in though, if it's quite old it gets a bit slack. Only 20 odd quid iirc

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Yep, would bet on the crankpulley. If the powersteering is unloaded= you not turning the steering wheel: there is no load on the pump and the wheel will turn with the belt without problem. But under load the pulley on the crank slips since the rubber has become loose. If you remove the belt you could probably pry the beltpulley part loose from the crankpulley.

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Guest Budz86
would you take the cap off and do a few full locks side to side to force any air out of the system? is this how you'd bleed the system

 

This, but I've always done it with the front wheels off the ground. There is a thread round her somewhere, maybe tech FAQ's? You need to go from lock to lock slowly about 7 - 10 times.

 

 

To be fair, when I bleed my system once I could hear the problem straight away and the noise change as I was bleeding it, then disappeared so you'll probably have a good idea whether you've sorted it or not before the wheels hit the deck.

 

HTH

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I'm going to buy a crank pulley soon as I'm paid this Friday so if you're a seller pm me prices please. I'll do a cam belt change at the same time.

 

I would definately do the tippex test before you do considering how cheap tippex is and how expesive crank pulleys are :)

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Didn't have Tip Ex but black marker did the job and yes it's definitely the crank pulley that's gone. Asked a few people on here their prices but ended up going with Whifbitz as I wanted a couple of other things too so I could do a full cam belt change at the same time.

 

image

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Ok I bought a new crank pulley,pulley removal tool and new Aux and Cam belt. Anything I should know about changing the cam belt on a Supra that is out of the ordinary from usual belt changes?

 

Thanks to WhifBitz for the parts, RAPID delivery and great communication throughout my orders. Due to them being so quick I should have this sorted by the weekend :)

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Ok I bought a new crank pulley,pulley removal tool and new Aux and Cam belt. Anything I should know about changing the cam belt on a Supra that is out of the ordinary from usual belt changes?

 

You might need a tube/pole to go over the breaker bar, to loosen the 22mm crank nut.

 

To reset the tensioner correctly you should compress it (the small stainless cylindrical bit that sticks out the top) and put a 'pin' in the hole, refit and then pull the pin to release and re-tension the new belt. You'll need a vice etc to do that...some just refit and bolt it back up to tension but the manual says to compress+pin+release.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

Link? Personally I'd get a genuine crank pulley *be wary of copies*. Some of the replacement crank pulleys that people have tried in the past have failed or caused other issues. The standard pulley is dampened so it absorbs any unusual vibrations from the crank/combustion process. Most replacement non standard type pulleys don't have this rubber absorption compound.

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