A couple of problems when changing my crank pulley/cam and aux belts

Hi guys just wondered if anyone could help me with a few issues I've got after changing my crank pulley, I've removed the pulley fine.New one went on perfect and all the timing marks were in line the whole time so I know nothing has moved. I replaced the cam belt and as I don't ever use A/C I have removed the pump and it's ancillaries.

The first problem arose when I refitted the Aux pre tensioner and used a 14mm socket on a bar to move it to slip the new shorter belt on... The tensioner gave way and stripped all the thread away from the bracket so now the pulley is loose and is unfit for use. I guess I could get someone to spot weld the end of the bolt to the bracket so I can use the pulley as the bearing is fine but would that be recommended? £220+ for a new tensioner or a few quid for a few blobs of weld? My wallet prefers the weld

The second problem is although as far as I know everything bar the viscus fan and aux belt is refitted. The engine will happily (without any horrible mistake caused noises) turn over on the key but it will not fire up the engine. I've not checked for a spark yet as I hate the idea of touching the clips for the coils after hearing they are very brittle.

Any ideas as to why it's not firing up? Would it start without the alternator / water pump spinning? I know it's stupid to not run the pump but it was only for a quick test.

Pics...

New vs Old

Untitled by MrfizzyT, on Flickr

Crank position

Untitled by MrfizzyT, on Flickr

Cam positions

Untitled by MrfizzyT, on Flickr

Untitled by MrfizzyT, on Flickr

The tensioner is old looking but as the bearing is fine why replace it? Just a blob of weld will sort it?

Untitled by MrfizzyT, on Flickr

If you look at the crank pulley there is both a yellow and a white timing mark around its circumference. I believe it's the white one you need to use when setting TDC. You can double check by using the second set of timing marks that are on the timing belt sprocket on the crank. From memory there is only on timing mark on the sprocket so it's less ambiguous.

That's the video I followed for reference. I used the first set of marks just like he did.

I think I've figured it out... The standard crank only has ONE timing mark @ TDC. Well as I watched that video he set it to 15 degrees before TDC as his crank has TWO marks. Furthest clockwise is 15 degree's before TDC and the 2nd was TDC.

I've ended up setting my replacement crank at 15 degrees before TDC and my cams at TDC. God knows how I mucked that up but hopefully tomorrow I'll sort it out weather permitting. Apparently non vvti 2jzgte's are a non interference engine? Sure didn't feel or hear any contact.

that video shows he uses the line furthest to the right when the top cam cover markers are lined up with the dots

so you must have to go from the other line to the lines on your cam gears

Yeah my cam's only have 1 line rather than dots too. Dots are 15 degree's before TDC and only shown on engines / cams with vvti. Annoying mistake but with any luck there's no damage done. I'll have to remove that damn tensioner again though. Either way I still need to bodge or replace the aux belt tensioner. Been offered one by a kind guy on here already so thanks goes out to him and I'll be contacting him soon if a few spotwelds don't do the trick.

When money permits I'm buying nice shiny black pulleys from Whifbitz haha

Is there enough room to fit a time-sert or heli-coil to repair the thread?

You can drill and make a bigger thread for the tensioner, so you can fit a bigger bolt (M10 or 12 I think), that's how I fixed my tensioner, had the same problem.

did you sort it fizzy?

Reset the timing and it fires up but stalls pretty quickly,Might be down to I didn't have the aux belt setup reinstalled or the boost hoses refitted yet. I repaired the tensioner temporary by fitting a nut and bolt combo but yet to refit it as there's currently a thunderstorm outside. I'll get it done tomorrow if it doesn't pass today.

I'm so eager to get back on the road it's unreal.

BTW yesterday I got it all back together and she fired up sweet as a nut first time. Took her for a spin and I swear she's far more responsive now but it could be one of two things. First it could just be my imagination as I've not driven her for a month or...The cam timing was ever so slightly off in my opinion from before the cam belt change. It looks like it was 3-4mm or so past the line marks on the cam cover. Now I've lined it up perfectly it runs better. Hopefully does better mpg

Next thing to replace will be the radiator then the intercooler. I'll then no doubt want a hard pipe kit. Already been teasing myself on the whifbitz site

nice first drive after been sat on the drive for a bit is always good

I only managed to get the crank bolt up to 230nm on my own without removing the starter to jam the flywheel. It's got thread locker on it so should hold but ideally I want to nip it up some more.

DO NOT use thread lock on crank pulley bolts!!! They are torqued to hold without it, and if torqued and Locited will be a nightmare to undo again. Always mark timing with Tipex BEFORE stripping an unfamiliar engine. Do a sanity check against TDC with a dowel down number one plug hole if in doubt. Doesn't the auxillary belt tensioner pulley centre bolt use a semi captive nut than can be replaced?