Rollin_Thunder Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 fair play to you hoff, just had a mooch through your garage & i saw T CUT!!! damn you must have arms like arnie now after put that much shine on to your car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoff Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Lol. More of a gut like Bristow:D I think its been a long hot day and everyone is bored at work. I dont think anyone in this thread meant any disrespect to anyone else:) At the end of the day we all have differant opinions and ideas. Me, full decat, nics manifold and thats about it:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Lol. More of a gut like Bristow:D I think its been a long hot day and everyone is bored at work. I dont think anyone in this thread meant any disrespect to anyone else:) At the end of the day we all have differant opinions and ideas. Me, full decat, nics manifold and thats about it:) Oh fully agree with you there... I'm a laid back guy (I've got kids they generate enough stress on their own *grin*).... No offence was meant towards anyone, rather just a heated debate on a subject which none of us are experts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rollin_Thunder Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 NIC's? the problem is ppl read things wrong & so read it in a wrong way work? heh heh.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 NIC's? the problem is ppl read things wrong & so read it in a wrong way work? heh heh.... All my NICs are gigabit....with go faster stripes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 If I had an NA I would do the following (in no particular order), to get the best out of it. 1. Service (fluids, filter, plugs, etc.) to ensure everything is in good working condition to start with. 2. New O2 sensors to ensure correct fueling. 3. Cat back exhaust (quietest I could find eg. Blitz RX, Tanabe Medalion Touring, Greddy MX etc.) 4. 2nd decat pipe 5. Tubular manifold 6. Emanage Ultimate mapped by Ian C 7. Bigger spec Supra brakes, quality pads, decent fluid, braided lines, possibly also upgrade the master cylinder. 8. Front and rear Carbing braces (front one including master cylinder stopper to help with brake pedal feel). 9. Quality suspension setup. 10. Quality set of lightweight wheels and decent tyres. I'd look at performance as in the overall package, rather than just hp figure, ie. getting the engine running as well as possible, good braking and quality handling. Pics of the tubular manifold for anyone who has not seen yet. http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/8473/p1030161sa4.jpg http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/1831/p1030162uk1.jpg http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/7632/dsc00305dl3.jpg http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/1738/dsc00307xs0.jpg http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/3957/dsc00312gm4.jpg http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/1491/dsc00313hh4.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoff Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 I so so want that manifold nic, but so so skint at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rollin_Thunder Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 drool...... erm how much, i like shiny things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Don't forget the block is cast the same as the 2jz-gte block and we KNOW how much abuse people have put those engines through, Quoting snipped, but the N/A block is NOT cast like a TT, I have now cut them both up, and they are quite different, lack of piston cooling squirters aside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Quoting snipped, but the N/A block is NOT cast like a TT, I have now cut them both up, and they are quite different, lack of piston cooling squirters aside. Ah in that case I will stand corrected on this.. What are the main differences. Glad that question has finally been answered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Thinner head face deck, thinner bore walls, particularly at the top and bottom, generally less "beefy" Even cast iron costs money, and car makers don't use any more than necessary for the blocks envisaged usage. I must weigh the two types of block, I imagine the differences will show up on the scales quite clearly. I posted pics of a Skyline head I band sawed in bits on a forum, and now I find the pics accredited to some Yank "expert", so I am not taking any and posting them get your own hack saw out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 i have a stripped na block should anyone want any measurements......... i did have a TT block (+ a big hole!) but that went to the scrappy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Thinner head face deck, thinner bore walls, particularly at the top and bottom, generally less "beefy" Even cast iron costs money, and car makers don't use any more than necessary for the blocks envisaged usage. I must weigh the two types of block, I imagine the differences will show up on the scales quite clearly. I posted pics of a Skyline head I band sawed in bits on a forum, and now I find the pics accredited to some Yank "expert", so I am not taking any and posting them get your own hack saw out I'm not going to doubt you in the slightest... would be nice to see the pics, but I can understand your concern. That is another theory regarding the engines that has been debunked.. Any areas show any obvious weak spots? Just curious for the 10k RPM experiment.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 I'm not going to doubt you in the slightest... would be nice to see the pics, but I can understand your concern. That is another theory regarding the engines that has been debunked.. Any areas show any obvious weak spots? Just curious for the 10k RPM experiment.. For a turbo conversion of modest power levels it should (and certainly appears to be in real life) fine, but for a mega BHP engine I'd only want to use the TT block. Nissan found the stock Skyline blocks wanting (again people claim a stock block is reliable to silly power figures, which they might be for a sub 10 second run through the gears, or an inertia dyno "power run", but not for endurance racing). So they came up with the N1 block with a thicker bore wall thickness, and the rare GT block, which has a much thicker head deck, too. I don't believe Toyota, or TRD ever used the 2JZ-GTE in any serious competition so they probably had no incentive to produce a stronger TT block. For your high revving N/A conversion the very long stroke and rod length of the 2JZ family will conspire against you, and I don't believe 10,000 RPM or anything near it is achievable with any reliability whatsoever. You'd be better shortening the stroke with either custom crank and rods, or even basing it on a 1JZ engine. Pics of the Nissan race blocks below. I couldn't justify the 5k plus UK pounds for a GT block, so went with an N1 block for my effort Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 I wonder how much power you'd get pulling that back to 13:1 AFRs And what cams are you looking at? I've got a 272 intake if it'll fit haha -Ian Here you go... Here is a dyno plot of my NA at a recent rolling road day, I've attached the graph showing the AFR's (Air fuel ratio)... As you can see they are certainly not running lean at the top end, so there is plenty of headroom left with the fueling system. I would recommend rather using something such as an emanage (which has the same fueling aspect as the SAFC but in a higher resolution), but also has ignition control which is where you can scrape more power out of. Going one step further, you could use an emanage ultimate and slightly pull fuel out to bring it closer to stoich and not loose power that way BUT you will be using up your safety margain when it comes to detonation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 For a 9000 RPM plus N/A you'll be looking at well over 300 degrees duration with a lot of fast and high lift, with lightweight shim under buckets and double springs, blah blah. EXPENSIVE!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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