8-pot brake kit on ebay

[Ark]

I wonder - would there be any benefit in upgrading a Jap setup with a UK master cylinder assembly.

 

Does anyone know if these are different? I could have sworn the UK MC was bigger/better.

[AdDaMan]

any update on these then Jamie? did you get the rears? or did i ressurect this for nothing?

[JamieP]

Still waiting on them to turn up:(

[Jurgen-Jm-Imports]

i have some on my rx7 and the brakes are just as good as brembos or alcons i have used on the past

[Lebsteif]

Ok i'm going for the D2 racing brakes

Is it worth the money to go for the 365mm instead of the 330mm ?

 

Anyone?

[Kranz]

I wonder - would there be any benefit in upgrading a Jap setup with a UK master cylinder assembly.

 

Does anyone know if these are different? I could have sworn the UK MC was bigger/better.

 

Very slightly bigger bore IIRC, but not enough to make any noticeable difference I believe.

 

I won't bother when fitting my Uk brakes.

[Ark]

Very slightly bigger bore IIRC, but not enough to make any noticeable difference I believe.

 

I won't bother when fitting my Uk brakes.

 

I'm not looking for a noticeable improvement, just AN improvement. Track use is killing my UK brakes, and I reckon a full rejuvenation might be necessary, perhaps in conjunction with a 355mm big brake conversion.

[Lebsteif]

a 12 pot version with 380mm discs are now available as well :o

[Lebsteif]

http://tuning.jcauto.pl/image/Z2Z4L2pjYXV0b3R1bm5pbmcvcGwvZGVmYXVsdF9vcGlzeS52MC8xOTAvMS8x/1396522682.jpg

[lockys96]

wtf.

 

i want 20 pot

[paul mac]

i did seriously look at the D2 brakes but after some research decided to stick with tried and tested Brembos, these bad boys are going on the front

[lockys96]

euro-pimping ure car eh

[lockys96]

im going to get some of the k-sport 8pots with the better pads

[paul mac]

euro-pimping ure car eh

 

lol no i wont be driving round with mercedes-benz on them

[GazzaGSi]

Any updates from anyone on the brakes?

 

Anyone had the full kit (front and rear) fitted?

Is it wise to do the brakes all round rather than just the front?

 

In need of a brake upgrade so keeping my options open at the minute, anyones experience with a particular kit would be nice to hear.

 

My budget will be between £1k to £1.5k approx. I dont know what I want though, 6 or 8 pot, size of disc, front and rear etc

 

Thanks

[Ark]

With a grand to spend, you're probably best off just looking at doing the fronts properly if you must go aftermarket, otherwise you'll only afford shitty brakes all round.

 

A full set of new UKs with braided lines and good pads / discs are good for most peoples purposes.

[Thorin]

My budget will be between £1k to £1.5k approx. I dont know what I want though, 6 or 8 pot, size of disc, front and rear etc

 

UK Spec OEM brakes, OEM discs, decent pads and fluid.

[SupraPL]

With a grand to spend, you're probably best off just looking at doing the fronts properly if you must go aftermarket, otherwise you'll only afford shitty brakes all round.

 

A full set of new UKs with braided lines and good pads / discs are good for most peoples purposes.

 

UK Spec OEM brakes, OEM discs, decent pads and fluid.

[Chris Wilson]

Any updates from anyone on the brakes?

 

Anyone had the full kit (front and rear) fitted?

Is it wise to do the brakes all round rather than just the front?

 

In need of a brake upgrade so keeping my options open at the minute, anyones experience with a particular kit would be nice to hear.

 

My budget will be between £1k to £1.5k approx. I dont know what I want though, 6 or 8 pot, size of disc, front and rear etc

 

Thanks

 

8 pot are a total gimmick and totally unnecessary, even 6 pot are unnecessary, decent sized 4 pots will work fine. Given the budget I'd suggest you use stock UK calipers and discs all round with stainless braided hoses and good pads and fluid. These will handle track days totally satisfactorily, as well as any kind of road usage you throw at them.

 

 

As to just fitting upgraded brakes to the front, maybe the article i wrote below will help?

 

Brake upgrades can set out to try to achieve several objectives.

The commonest are to increase resistance to fade and or increase

braking effort for a given pedal effort. IE, the pads are

pushed against the discs harder for a given pedal effort than

before the upgrade, or the brakes will stop the car from 100 MPH,

hard, for more times before fade sets in, than previously. The feel

from the pedal, that almost intangible quality, can also be addressed

and sometimes improved upon by brake size, or pad material changes, or

brake flexi hose upgrades to something less squashy than rubber.

It's easy to get carried away by the thought of brake upgrades.

The limitation in most cars as to how short a distance they can

stop in is tyre friction. Leaving aside pedal feedback, and fade,

it is almost certain that a Supra on stock Jap spec brakes will

stop in just as short a distance as one with an AP six pot kit on

it, a Brembo kit, Pauls KAD kit, or whatever. It may not feel to

the driver that it does, but usually such is the case if you just

nail the pedal as hard as you can. The fancy kits may *FEEL* to

stop the car faster, due to less pedal effort, and a better bite,

but in reality, if you hit the pedal as hard as you can with stock

Jap spec brakes, UK spec brakes, AP kit, KAD, whatever, the car

will stop in the same distance. Repeat this test 10 times and stock

Jap brakes may be on fire and long since faded, or the fluid boiled,

UK ones may be very hot and bothered, but the upgraded ones will

probably still be working within pad, disc and brake fluid temp

limits. Add in the intangible "feel" factor, and a desire to brake

as hard as possible, using as little skill as possible, but WITHOUT

relying on the ABS to take over, and for sure a well set up brake

upgrade may well allow more finesse.

 

Herein though lies the rub.

 

Upgrade only the fronts and the brake balance of the stock car may

well be compromised. Let's take stock brakes. You press smoothly on

the brake pedal with (say) 50 pounds force. The car stops fine. 70

pounds, the fronts are just beginning to lock (car makers ALWAYS aim

for the fronts to lock first, as rear wheel lock makes the car very

unstable and liable to swap ends). The rears are doing as much work

as the brake engineers deemed safe to prevent premature rear lock up.

The ABS cuts in, and maximum retardation has been reached. Now, take

a car with big front discs and calipers. Only 40 pounds pressure now

gives a smooth, lock free and powerful retardation. 50 pounds and the

new, more powerful, (for the same pedal pressure), fronts are locking.

The ABS cuts in. BUT, and this is the crux, those original rear

calipers and discs are still well below the caliper pressure where

they are able to achieve maximum retardation without fear of the

rears locking.

 

In other words the FRONT brakes are doing TOO MUCH work, albeit without

breaking into a sweat, and the rears are, to exaggerate a bit,

just along for the ride. The BEST scenario is to upgrade front AND

rear brakes, carefully ensuring the original balance of effort at any

given brake pedal pressure remains as designed, but that the more efficient

front AND rear brakes stay cooler for more hard stops, and that old

intangible "feel" from the brake pedal is improved, at lower rates of

driver effort on the pedal. The latter may or may not be good or

desirable, and can be engineered out by changing BOTH front and rear

caliper piston sizes, or pad areas. In a race car the balance would

be adjustable via 2 brake master cylinders, with a driver selectable

change in mechanical leverage effort between front and rear brake circuits,

one cylinder operating the front brake calipers, the other the rear. This

can also be achieved on road cars, but to do so is usually complex and

expensive, especially if ABS and brake circuit failure safeguards are to be

maintained. It is far easier to calculate the caliper and disc sizes, along with

pad area and compound to achieve this, as near as available off the

shelf equipment will allow.

 

Caveat. I said before makers engineer more effort on the front brakes to

encourage straight line stopping if the tyres are locked up . They err on

the excessive side, as, in the wet, the rear tyres can take a lot more

braking effort than in the dry, due to less weight transfer onto the front

tyres, as they will lock before as much weight is transferred when the grip

of the road surface is reduced. So adding yet more front brake effort worsens

this existing imbalance, especially in the wet. If it were not for the

ABS the front wheels would be locking up very early. On the Supra a

relatively sophisticated ABS allows some effort to be taken off JUST

the fronts, and an artificial and very inefficient balance is returned.

On cars with lesser (1 or 2 channel) ABS, or no ABS at all, a brake

upgrade on just one end of the car can be lethal.

[Ark]

So Chris, if I read your article right, we could achieve better braking by increasing the width of the front tyres? Within reason of course - I'm talking about 255's instead of 235's, rather than whacking on gynormohugemongous brakes.

[SUPRASUZUKI]

UK Spec OEM brakes, OEM discs, decent pads and fluid.

 

An interesting comparison from another brake thread.

 

Here's the link.

http://planetsoarer.com/suprabrakesI...akeUpgrade.htm

 

Braking performance comparison:

 

Vehicle Braking horsepower

Ferrari F1 7000+

Porsche Twin Turbo GT1 2060

Brembo/AP 6 pot 385mm discs 2040

Mercedes Brabus V12 1950

Supra TT 4 pots with Mintex grooved discs 1760

Wilwood Rallystop 4pot 355mm discs 1750

Brembo/AP 6 pot 355mm discs 1680

Maclaren F1 1670

Supra TT 4 pots 1665

Wilwood Rallystop 4pot 320mm discs 1640

Brembo/AP 6 pot 320mm discs 1590

Porsche 996 C2/C4 1590

Ferrari 456GT 1480

Supra / Soarer TT 2 pots 1010

Lamborghini Muira (1966) 780

Ford Mondeo 2Ltr Saloon 700

[Chris Wilson]

So Chris, if I read your article right, we could achieve better braking by increasing the width of the front tyres? Within reason of course - I'm talking about 255's instead of 235's, rather than whacking on gynormohugemongous brakes.

 

If by better braking you mean better brake balance then that would be one way. In an ideal world you need manually adjustable brake balance to suit the prevailing conditions. This is possible, in fact i converted my Skyline to bias adjustable brakes, but it's VERY involved. There are many none brake related caveats to running bigger tyres on most road cars though.

[Chris Wilson]

An interesting comparison from another brake thread.

 

Here's the link.

http://planetsoarer.com/suprabrakesI...akeUpgrade.htm

 

Braking performance comparison:

 

Vehicle Braking horsepower

Ferrari F1 7000+

Porsche Twin Turbo GT1 2060

Brembo/AP 6 pot 385mm discs 2040

Mercedes Brabus V12 1950

Supra TT 4 pots with Mintex grooved discs 1760

Wilwood Rallystop 4pot 355mm discs 1750

Brembo/AP 6 pot 355mm discs 1680

Maclaren F1 1670

Supra TT 4 pots 1665

Wilwood Rallystop 4pot 320mm discs 1640

Brembo/AP 6 pot 320mm discs 1590

Porsche 996 C2/C4 1590

Ferrari 456GT 1480

Supra / Soarer TT 2 pots 1010

Lamborghini Muira (1966) 780

Ford Mondeo 2Ltr Saloon 700

 

Link no workey, figures no comprehendy