Rob W's Supra - Project Thread * Pic Heavy *

[mattdavies]

12 hours ago, Rob W said:

Once I know these do fit, work correctly and without any fault codes I will update Riders thread with the sensor details. 

This would be very useful and I will probably buy some to sit on the shelf 

[Rob W]

Popped down to my brothers today to start on splitting the hubs and diff, the 10 ton press was definitely required!

Removed the hub flange from behind, inner raced stayed firmly on splitting the bearing whilst removing as expected. You can then removed the brake shield 2 x bolts and 1 x Hex bolt.

 

 

With the hub flange removed, you can locate the circlip and remove to allow to press the remaining outer race/bearings from behind. This required around 9 ton of pressure but with some heat it finally went.

Also, removed the small rubber bushes in the hub which one of the rear lower arms bolt to just by burning them out and removing the metal sleeve with a punch.

 

 

All done, you can see the inner race still attached to the hub flanges. I have bought new hub flanges so won't have to bother grinding a groove into them to release and remove.

 

 

Next was the diff, drained the oil out and removed rear cover plate. 

 

 

Using a long pry bar with a little angle as possible, we tapped out the sub shafts with not a major amount of force for the snap-ring to free.

Once the sub shafts were out, removed the side retainers 8 x bolts each side which the seals sit in to allow removal of the diff by manoeuvring out. Outer races remained within, will press these out at reassembly stage.

 

 

Diff out, simple case of pinion flange removal by removing nut and pulling off; then pressing the pinion shaft into the diff housing. Again both pinion bearing outer races stayed within the diff housing, I'll leave these in whilst it goes off to be blasted and remove once the new diff will be installed. 

 

 

Cleaned all the parts up when I got back, hate the smell of diff oil maybe worse that AFT fluid! This is going to be fun trying to get the bearing off when rebuilding! 

 

[Rob W]

On to dropping the petrol tank this afternoon, you can do this without removing the rear bumper which was handy.

Remove spare wheel, cover 6 x nuts, 19mm banjo, screw for line clamp, 2 x spring clips/hoses and the power connector. You don't need to remove the filler next surround etc only the fuel filler neck cap to remove the petrol tank, I did just to give it a clean.

 

 

Under the car I took the petrol tank shield off 4 x bolts and the 2 x petrol tank straps. I didn't think I had that much fuel still left in it, and that was a mistake as it was quite heavy I suddenly realised 

Removing the rear bolts of the 2 x petrol tank straps first, the tank dropped straight away and luckily had my trolley jack near to support it.

When lowering you have a cable clip which holds the power connector which you have to unclip before you lower the tank all the way down.

 

 

Once removed I made the decision to replace the fuel lines as they were looking worse for wear at the point of the plastic mounting brackets to the chassis . The brake lines do not have any corrosion on the surface at all which I found odd as you would assume both would corrode in the same area.

Being naïve I didn't think the fuel lines would be holding as much fuel as they were, pissed out everywhere! Remove the plastic cover that protects the line and then at the front you have the 3 lines to connect, 19mm banjo (Need an extension and universal socket) and 2 x spring clips.

 

 

 

Gave the tank a clean up as it was coated in dirt over the years as I could even think about putting it back in like that!

Need to replace the breather pipe as that has quite bad corrosion, might try and make one like Rider had to as these are discontinued.

 

 

After that I called it a day, need to start looking at getting all the bits blasted, zinc coated and somewhere for the rear subframe to be acid dipped and galvanised which is local 

[mwilkinson]

Any updates on your build Rob?

[Rob W]

Unfortunately not Matt, been carrying on with garden as the weather has been decent so the car hasn’t progressed.

Also, just purchased my new daily Cupra Ateca with Comfort + Sport plus Design pack which is an absolute weapon that’s been keeping me entertained!

This has reminded me that I sent Paul at TCB a long list of parts required but haven’t heard anything back so I’ll chase him to get things moving again.

I’m struggling to find someone local to strip and galvanise the rear subframe currently.

[mwilkinson]

Understandable, I can hardly talk about taking my time on things 

Roughly where are you based?  Maybe someone on here can recommend someone. I used a place in Portsmouth for the galvanising, but I wouldn't recommend them I'm afraid.

Edited June 28, 2022 by mwilkinson (see edit history)

[Rob W]

Yea but yours is not the average build so you have an excuse! 

Based in Welling, Kent mate. If anyone has any recommendations I’m all ears.

I was meaning to message Phil (214Supra) as he was based near me last time we spoke which done a full rebuild on the RSP he had so maybe might have some places in mind.

[Rob W]

It’s been awhile!

Thought I better put some effort in to get this moving again, whipped the rear bumper off to give more access to the underside when I get going under there.

Finally found a local company for the Rear Subframe to be blasted and Hot Zinc Sprayed which came out really nice. Might get them to do the Petrol Tank guard but unsure if best just to buy new.

Gave it a few coats of acrylic primer when I got it back, going to paint it in 2k just unsure if to go black or silver so it can sit in primer to I decide!

I then started on prepping the rear arms and for spraying as the OEM paint didn’t last long at all. A slow process with removing all paint with wire wheel on the grinder and using small file/scotch pads in the small areas and right up to the bushes but got there in the end.

Also gave the drive shafts a clean up while I was at it, these took a good hour or two each but worth it in the end.

After degreasing, I used Hydrate 80 on all the parts with a couple of coats. First time using it and seemed pretty decent but time will only tell.

Built a small frame to hang the arms off for spraying which done the trick, sheeted up the car and got going.

3 coats etch primer, then 4-5 light coats of 2k black which I’ll be finishing off with 2k clear tomorrow.

 

Next on the list will be sending off various parts for blasting/gold zinc plating and then starting on the underside.

Also need to get my OEM parts list ordered, SRD have confirmed what is still available just awaiting the quote to get it all ordered as I want to keep the ball rolling.

[mwilkinson]

Great progress and work.  Very organised too.

[Wishieftrottle]

Very clean work! Great job! I am going to exchange rear wheel bearings in following weeks so I found your photos useful 

[Rob W]

Got the diff parts, brake shields and hubs back from blasting which came up pretty well. 

Cracked on with getting all the bits painted including the Rear Subframe, still unsure about if 199 silver was the correct choice for the Subframe but it’s done now!

Items used as below:-

Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80.

Etch Primer.

2k Black basecoat.

2k 199 Silver basecoat.

2k Spray Max Clear.

 

Taking the time with the masking paid off, this Low Tack tape from Toolstation works really well and doesn’t lift at all.

 

After leaving all parts for a couple of days it was time to crack on the the basecoat.

 

Edited April 30, 2023 by Rob W (see edit history)

[Rob W]

On to the Clearcoat…

Happy how the turned out and was worth the effort in the end.

 

Im going to give all the parts at least a week before wrapping up to store away so I can sort out the garage for starting the underside.

Bought some Correx to put around the car as I know it’s going to be one messy job ahead!

Edited April 30, 2023 by Rob W (see edit history)

[Rob W]

Time come to start with the underseal removal, got the car a little higher and put the correx around to try and keep most of the debris under the car which actually worked pretty well, plus easier to sweep up.

Removed all the underseal section by section, the OEM stuff in the wheel arches was the worst it’s on so thick and takes a lot of time getting in to all the areas; also it did highlight surface rust hiding underneath in the same sections on both sides.

Nothing major and cleaned up fine but still glad I took it all off as I was second guessing it half way through as it’s a horrible and painful job!

This is where I am currently over the last 3 days, around 5-6 hours per day.

Will go back over everything at a later stage once I’ve completed getting the underseal off up to the front.

[mwilkinson]

I bet your back loves you at the minute.

[Rob W]

Haha back, shoulders, neck you name it mate!

It is not a fun job to do at all…

[Annabella]

Kudos to you, it's so not fun! 

[monkey3]

Hey @Rob W,

Been a while since I've been on the forums but I've spent the last couple of hours reading through this thread and studying your photos.

I don't want to overcook this but truly inspirational.

My Supra isn't really in need of work but my mk2 golf is and this has really pushed me to want to work on it again...

I need to get service parts for my Sup and probably do the headlights as well

I've got 2 spare sets of headlights and the ones currently on the car but I really can't be arsed to mess them up but also struggling to want to pay £400 per light for new ones from Whifbitz. First world problems and all that.

 

On a separate note (no hijack intended) I'm down near the Hop Farm near Tonbridge and there's a car meet next Sunday (14th May) if you're about (not necessarily Supra but I'll hopefully be there in mine, weather pending)... Would be good to hook up with some like minded peeps.

 

[Rob W]

Hi Russel,

Thanks for the kind words, good to see a long time member still about.

I doubt I’ll be able to get to the meet with trying to crack on with the car plus the normal things that need doing on a weekend unfortunately.

Purchasing OEM parts I would try SRD, Keron or Paul at TCB parts. I haven’t used TCB this time around just due to not being able to get hold of him but the amount of effort SRD put in I’ll probably use them going forward.

A new set of lights always improves any supra front end so definitely a worth while purchase!

Drop us a PM if you ever want ask a question about something if needed and I can try and assist in any way mate.

[Rob W]

Small update, the twist knot wheel works great for getting the old underseal off but didn’t clean up the metal as well as a normal wire wheel.

After going over all areas again with a normal wire wheel which wasn’t that time consuming as the bulk of the work was done, I degreased the area and went over using Hydrate 80 to seal the bare metal before the 2k epoxy primer.

Did this in two stages just to feel like I was getting somewhere, back end/arches then the floor. Also took the underseal off within the tunnel up to the gearbox as wanted to do a much as possible with the 2k.

Used Dinitrol RC900 as it’s a spray to get in any tight areas within the small panel gaps etc. Then following a couple of days on with the epoxy.

Popped down to SRD today to pick up some bits, still a way off to install any but always good to have in hand as more bits getting discontinued.

 

After a lot of researching I have decided to go with Dinitrol 447 Stone Chip, then I’ll over coat that with 2k silver/lacquer for some additional protection.

Started on the seam sealing, still got the floor to do then hopefully have time this weekend to start with the stone chip!

[Wishieftrottle]

Impresive! Keep up the great GREAT work!

[Rob W]

Small update.

Seam sealing done, to get the back end stone chip on for moving the stands out the way.

Then started on the Dinitrol 447, actually went better than expected. Done 2 layers on the arches to give a bit more protection, got to be quick and this stuff comes out quick and can easily go over the top causing runs.

I bought a 50l 9.6cfm 2.5Hp Compressor to use which done the job spot on for what I needed it for.

Didn’t take many photos of it, dries to a Matt black rubberised finish and extremely durable.

My brother popped down with some tall axle stands and to help get the gearbox out, used his Porsche engine removal brace which ended up being the same length as the box which was a touch, just used it on the jack to wiggle and get it off. Out within an hour but I don’t think putting it back in will be as quick!

Bought a new OEM rear seal as I noticed some oil mist so going to swap that out prior to the box going back in.

[Rob W]

After leaving for about a week, I then got onto the top coat.

Grey CP7465 2k paint, had to get a smaller gun with a 120ml pot due to space under the car and getting in all areas.

This was abit of a pain as required about 4/5 full pots to complete, overall pretty happy how it’s come out.

Sorted through the nuts/bolts/brackets today plus the new ones I have bought to drop off for blasting/yellow zinc plating next week so I can finally get some bits back on the car.

[HarleyFDMD]

That looks awesome mate  

Definitely on my list of things to do!! I've done the subframes but haven't done the actual underside of the chassis 

[mwilkinson]

Great work Rob.  Looks really good.

[Rob W]

Thanks gents! @HarleyFDMD @mwilkinson 

Been time consuming but hopefully be worth it in the long run.

Trying to find somewhere local for the blasting/yellow zinc plating all in one house but even that seems hard to find.

Contemplating just buying new but unsure how long new OEM bolt plating/finish lasts.