Chris Wilson Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 That will be it. It will cool just as well with plain water in it, the lack, or dilution of, anti freeze is NOT your issue. You need to add anti freeze as it contains corrosion inhibitors, even in the summer. THERE IS NO NEED WHATSOEVER to buy or use the red stuff Toyota charge a fortune for. Any ethylene glycol based anti freeze from the likes of Halfords is JUST AS GOOD, except it doesn't contain a red dye to show when it's turned acidic. There is no way on God's earth i would would pay for the red stuff it it were my car.... Here's a simple way to get the bottle level right. Remove it, empty it, put it back. Fill the rad itself, cold, to the brim. Drive the car for a day. Next morning top the rad again to the brim. Do this three times. the bottle will then have it's required amount of water or water / coolant mix in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rummy Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 (edited) ...the lack, or dilution of, anti freeze is NOT your issue. Agreed, not THE issue. That's clearly the over filling. I was addressing the water that is boiling/bubbling in the res. Surely adding anti-freeze raises boiling temp as well lowering freezing temp of plain water? Edited June 18, 2014 by Rummy (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 The water in the cooling system is under pressure and would only boil at well over 100 degrees Celcius whether it has anti freeze in it or not. His issue is not one of marginally increasing the boiling point of water, it's much more basic, modern cooling systems have a huge excess of capacity on most vehicles, to accommodate running in very different climates. The slight in crease in boiling temp due to stronger molecular bonding of the hydrogen molecules due to ethylene glycol is irrelevant. The last engine I built was sent out running plain water as I was unsure if the owner wanted a heater matrix change and I did not want to waste his money on anti freeze. I put near 300 miles on it, and he maybe got a speeding ticket, and it didn't do anything untoward into the overflow bottle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rummy Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 The water in the cooling system is under pressure and would only boil at well over 100 degrees Celcius whether it has anti freeze in it or not. His issue is not one of marginally increasing the boiling point of water, it's much more basic, modern cooling systems have a huge excess of capacity on most vehicles, to accommodate running in very different climates. The slight in crease in boiling temp due to stronger molecular bonding of the hydrogen molecules due to ethylene glycol is irrelevant. The last engine I built was sent out running plain water as I was unsure if the owner wanted a heater matrix change and I did not want to waste his money on anti freeze. I put near 300 miles on it, and he maybe got a speeding ticket, and it didn't do anything untoward into the overflow bottle Everyday is a school day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brom86 Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 (edited) Ok thought a had sorted this but after another long run and when turned the car off bubbling again from expansion tank. Spoke with tonytt and he said looks and sounds like it's blowing air into the collant in the expansion tank so a took off the lid and pulled the pipe out the coolant and yip stopped bubbling. Hose was blowing air into the coolant but a thought it was boiling. Does this mean I have an air leak some where? Car does not over heat on the gauge and runs fine and doesn't seem to be loosing coplant Edited June 22, 2014 by brom86 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rummy Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 (edited) Overflow hose and radiator filler cap neck ok? If there's no visible leaks and all hoses are tight, system is fully bled, poss BHG? Might be worth getting a sniff test done. Check the underside of the oil cap for "cream cheese". Any white smoke from exhaust? Edited June 23, 2014 by Rummy (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Raven Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 The head would make it bubble, but it would be very very clear that oil was in there i would think. Can air get into the overflow hose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 23, 2014 Share Posted June 23, 2014 If the rad cap is new and definitely, *for certain*, the right one, I would suspect combustion gasses in the coolant and get a sniffer or dye test done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brom86 Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 Been checking the oil cap and no change to that. No build up or "cream cheese" performance is still great too. White smoke from exhaust no that's still same. I'll get it checked by garage to roll out hg or that's what's causing this problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brom86 Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 I take it when a turn the car off after a good run, pull the expansion tank cap off, take the small hose out the coolant and it's blowing rather than sucking that a sign the head gasket is gone? Or could it be something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 Is it blowing coolant out... or air? Are you sure you have enough coolant in the actual radiator itself? It sounds very much like your radiator doesn't have enough coolant in it. When you're filling up the expansion bottle, the expanding air from the radiator is blowing bubbles into the bottle..... hence why you think it's boiling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brom86 Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 Air not coolant. I have a video but can't upload it. Rad is filled to top. When engine is up to temp the expansion tank is just below the max line. When turn engine off it starts blowing air into the bottle. A thought it was boiling but when took the cap off the tank, not the rad, and took hose out the coolant it stopped bubbling and the hose was blowing air out like a kettle with steam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brom86 Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 For about a tenner at any garage they will tell you if it's steam or combustion gasses and steam. It looks like either it has head issues, a thermostat issue, or the wrong or a damaged rad cap. You can put this to bed in minutes, for a tenner.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brom86 Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 (edited) Yeah its going in next week but am shiting myself and hoping someone here says it's fine haha just so a can feel better Edited June 26, 2014 by brom86 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 It's fine..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brom86 Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 Cheers mate lol haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 I feel bad that its giving you worries Craig if its any consolation they're not known for giving head gasket problems, and as i drove it daily it was always well cared for mechanically and regardless of cost - it was my baby. I don't know what can lead to hg failure but i never had overheating issues and didn't drive the car hard, and as said the rad cap was changed during my time. I hope its ok and is a cheap/easy fix mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brom86 Posted June 26, 2014 Author Share Posted June 26, 2014 It's ok jim just one of these things. Might not be anything serious just worried incase it is really. Love the car to bits and if money wasn't an issue a would fix it and would worry but money is tight. Either way it will get sorted just as u said hope it's cheap. Can't have the girl being sick much longer haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 If it's air.... the radiator isn't topped up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brom86 Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 Well popped by the garage today. Tried a "sniff test" on the coolant in the radiator which came back negative for HC thank god. Went a good blast in the car and came back to show the garage the high pressure in the rad which was causing the pipe in the expansion bottle to blow air into the coolant which was about half way which was causing the bubbling. A let the car idle and the coolant returned to the rad and the pressure went right down. When say pressure a mean in the rad cap and top hose. They say there must be air getting into the system. Got it booked in to take the thermostat out to try that. See what happens. Getting cold and hot air so water pump seems fine. Again car runs great it's only this high build up of pressure on the system. Any thoughts people where could start looking for the source of the problem ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 Have you changed the rad cap ? Check the core plug on back of water pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brom86 Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 Yeah changed that. All be it not like for like. I'll try it with a oem one. Would the core plug cause the high pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 If you just remove the thermostat the cooling system will not function correctly. It needs a `stat in it to flow correctly. If you are paying to have one removed fit a new one from Toyota. Also fit a new genuine rad cap. I think you may not have a problem at all.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brom86 Posted June 30, 2014 Author Share Posted June 30, 2014 That's good advice ill do that cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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