Kirk Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 On what basis, I would personally rate the Carbing as one of the better unit plus it doubles up as a brake stopper too Ive been thinking about the carbing. In sence it is sort of linked to the bulkhead via the brake MC and servo so i could see that making a slighty bigger difference plus a more solid feel to the brakes but thats about it. Its stil just an aluminium bar and it will flex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 prob on the basis there the only two i have tryed ha ha but the trd felt better when fast cornering so im sticking with it, everyone has there own views i only replyed to the thread to HELP the man out with fitting not get teamed up on with whats good or bad, its all personal preference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 Whos teaming up against anyone? Im just giving my personal opinion to the question neil asked and your responce to that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 prob no one just feels my views are being questioned all the time.. just me being a dohnut sorry guys group hug?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 All happy now? Now time to unjack this thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil-NA Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 I bet it would be easy to make a new bar that bolts to the bulkhead, clears the NA intake and bolts to the brake master cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 yeah much better ha ha im off too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 On what basis, I would personally rate the Carbing as one of the better unit plus it doubles up as a brake stopper too The welded construction of the Carbing and TRD braces should make them stiffer than ones that are bolted together. The TRD brace is steel and a lot heavier than the aluminium Carbing brace (although Carbing do a steel brace option). As you say, you also get the benefit of the BMC stopper with the Carbing brace, which does make a noticeable difference to the pedal feel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spartan Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 (edited) I took my front strut brace (Cusco) off when I first got the car. I wasn't convinced it had any effect, apart from adding weight. If the top of the suspension turret does flex then wouldn't the brace just transmit that flex to the other turret (assuming the brace is stiff enough, if not all it will do is absorb the flex which is as good as doing nothing)? Are the BMC braces still available as a separate item - Cusco? Can't see any listed anywhere ... Sorry! Just realised I've gone off-topic - apologies to the OP. Edited February 3, 2010 by spartan Apologies (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Are the BMC braces still available as a separate item - Cusco? Can't see any listed anywhere ... Yes the Cusco Brake Cylinder Stopper is still available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Sorry to go off topic slighty but does anyone ever notice a difference with a stut brace, i have used 5 different braces on various cars using both steel and alloy bars and i couldnt see a blind bit of difference. I would like one for my NA but there's no way i'm paying £200+ if its going to make sh*t all difference. I know they make some difference - I jacked up the front of the car on the lower subframe once, so all the weight was off the wheels/suspension, and *then* tried to take the strut brace off. Could I? Could I 'eck as like. The turrets were trying to flex outwards to the point where they wouldn't let go of the brace. As for handling differences, well... who here is on the edge of traction in bends on public roads, to the point that a strut brace would make a difference? 0.1s faster to Tesco? -Ian PS in my defence the strut brace was on the car when I got it. God help me I've got one on the rear as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 God help me I've got one on the rear as well. I use to run one on the rear as well, there are two large plates that look like they do a similar job plus I have since had a cage welded in which goes to the rear suspension mounts so I removed it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 I noticed a difference when I fitted a rear strut brace. I had speed bumps near where I lived, if you went over them at an angle ie. one wheel then the other, you could hear the rear door twisting slightly against the rubber seal, this was noticeably reduced after the brace was fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 I've had both the Carbing and the TRD braces and they do make a difference. It's especially noticeable on a floppy aerotop, but still helps on a hard-roofed car. The top nuts on the suspension are only supposed to be tightened to about 27 lbft, so the brace is never going to be clamped hard to the chassis. Oh, and the Carbing brake stopper just butts up against the cylinder, it doesn't bolt on so that can't be considered to triangulate the brace against the chassis for extra strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 (edited) O.K. the job is jobbed. Putting it on the correct (TRD badge backwards) way around helps With one spacer each side, and the "tweak it down over a piece of wood" trick, achieves a knockless fit. Problem is, the bonnet was still hard on it, it would close, but had to bend to do so. Decided to work some off the manifold to achieve a spacerless fit. Maxed the groove to achieved a knockless fit, but only just. It was touching the front of throttle body, so took some off there too. Again, the bonnet still touches, but only gently now. I think the only way to achieve total clearance with either an N/A or TT, would be to remove the fibreglass lining, or maybe fit a TRD bonnet? Or 'donk it' in the middle with a club hammer. I didn't want to do either, so piped the edge of the modified snorkel with small bore rubber pipe. Sooner have metal to rubber, than metal to metal contact. The car seems happy with this brace to bonnet light contact, no rattles or buzzes. Haven't been for a B road blast yet, but on my way to Tesco's, it was noticably less twitchy over single potholes. Edited February 3, 2010 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 I've had both the Carbing and the TRD braces and they do make a difference. It's especially noticeable on a floppy aerotop, but still helps on a hard-roofed car. The top nuts on the suspension are only supposed to be tightened to about 27 lbft, so the brace is never going to be clamped hard to the chassis. Oh, and the Carbing brake stopper just butts up against the cylinder, it doesn't bolt on so that can't be considered to triangulate the brace against the chassis for extra strength. As i said earlier the TRD is probly about the only 1 with a chance of doing whats it said to do as its a steel and fairly stronger than the carbing but still im not convinced at all by these 'bling bars'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 is that inlet manifold dented?? thats not good mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil-NA Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Is that not where he took a grinder to it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 The inlet manifold is not 'dented', I wrapped some 40 grit sandpaper around a piece of 1 1/4" plastic pipe, rubbed it away, then polished it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 why did you have to do that? because of the bonnet? has your bonnet got a vent? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 (edited) I explained that inbetween the pictures Edited February 3, 2010 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 oh right i see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 With all the TRD braces that will be in circulation from the group buy, I thought this information would be useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 yeah it is useful dude but i never ground anything out, but my bonnet is stock so all have there own ways of doing things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 For anyone with a GTE lump, the badge needs to face downwards. You only have to install this back-to-front to fit over the NA manifold. HTH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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