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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Uprated Anti Roll Bars


JamieP
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Stiffer anti roll bars will affect the ride. If you drive over something like a sleeping policeman they make no difference, as the bars effectively make independent suspension semi live axle. Both wheels on each effective axle rise and fall together, the spring rates don't change. However, hit a pot hole, or a bump in the road, or a track kerb with a wheel, or wheels, at just one side of the car, and the spring rate of the bar, which can be very considerable on stiff bars for heavy cars, is added to the suspension spring rate, and the car will feel a lot less supple.

 

TRD bars are decent material, hollow, and so lightweight, and come with harder mounting rubbers and new brackets with grease nipples. For a road car that does some track work they work fine. Personally I don't rate Whiteline stuff. their springs seem to settle, suggesting very poor material, and I have twice seen broken Whiteline ARB's.

 

The stock ARB arm length is short enough for a set of (say) three link holes to make a noticeable difference to the rate of them.

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Titan Motorsport adjustables all the way, you cant go wrong. We use them on all 3 Time Attack cars, if your serious about track use and you want the adjustability to really tune your car in that comes with them these are the ones to get. TRD are fine for road use.

 

I second these, I thought I had done enough research to warrant the TRD ARB's, bought them and sold them off(before I decided to sell up completely)

 

The front TRD ARB's are better than stockers, but the Rears are too stiff, TRD rears werent ever made by TRD Japan they were an aftermarket item arranged by(Dusty?) via the same manufacturer

 

The Titan sway bars are adjustable in the sense that they can be changed to suit your driving style(jack the car up, socket set, easy enough), they are also lighter than TRD sway bars

 

I was surprised at the weight of the TRD's - they are a lot heavier than stock!

 

?Question for suspension analysts, I dont like polyeurethene bushes, the TRD ARB's come with them(I assume Titan ones too), but then so do most TRD parts, is it better to fit new stock rubber bushes - assuming its a daily driver?

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Cusco ARB spec

 

Cusco Front ARB

153% stiffer than stock

Ø32mm hollow construction (stock Ø30mm)

 

Cusco Rear ARB

240% or 297% stiffer than stock, depending which hole the drop links are bolted to.

Ø22mm hollow construction (stock Ø19.2mm)

 

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/9608/p1030625sn1.jpg

 

http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/5200/img2094vx7.jpg http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/5765/img2095zg6.jpg

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?Question for suspension analysts, I dont like polyeurethene bushes, the TRD ARB's come with them(I assume Titan ones too), but then so do most TRD parts, is it better to fit new stock rubber bushes - assuming its a daily driver?

 

Good question, I'd be interested in people's opinions too.

 

I'm looking at replacing ALL of the bushes on my car, but it seems you can't buy replacement rubber ones, only poly. I'm unsure whether I should go down the cheaper route and get 'upgraded' poly bushes, or replace the entire suspension components in order to get new rubber bushes... :(

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Good question, I'd be interested in people's opinions too.

 

I'm looking at replacing ALL of the bushes on my car, but it seems you can't buy replacement rubber ones, only poly. I'm unsure whether I should go down the cheaper route and get 'upgraded' poly bushes, or replace the entire suspension components in order to get new rubber bushes... :(

 

Me three. :search:

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Ahhh, so a thick/stiff ARB at the front will cause understeer, and a thick/stiff ARB at the rear will cause oversteer... So matching them up is important. Unless you want to change the handling of the car, in which case you use thicker or thinner ARBs where appropriate.

If you go TOO stiff back and front, the the car is prone to spinning out on corners, and thinner ARBs back and front will result in the car maybe not turning in as much?

That right?

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