SimonB Posted August 10, 2008 Author Share Posted August 10, 2008 Simon good stuff might be a bit late now but can you remember what the inner surface of the aluminium sump was like? Was it rougher than the outside and just looked a bit of a poor casting finish? (just after reassurance that this is the norm as mine look a bit ropey to me!) It was a bit rough, not too bad though IIRC. I'm sure as hell not taking it off to have a look though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 It was a bit rough, not too bad though IIRC. I'm sure as hell not taking it off to have a look though! fair enough , the fact you noticed what i'm on about is reassurance enough to me that its normal, ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Batmax Posted August 10, 2008 Share Posted August 10, 2008 Wow, wish you liver here in Portugal, good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted August 18, 2008 Author Share Posted August 18, 2008 Another couple of bits on, cam position sensors back in the head, pic 1. Oil level sensor back into no.1 sump - for some reason the engine rebuild gasket set doesn't come with the gasket for that so I had to order a new one, pic 2. Brass water drain plug, pic 3. I had to order new couple of studs for the no.2 sump as the old ones were knackered. Those arrived so I applied good old loctite 5910 in the pattern in the engine manual (basically along the groove and around the inside of the bolt holes) and bolted sump no.2 on with the many bolts and 2 nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted August 18, 2008 Author Share Posted August 18, 2008 Next, I was going to put the head on but struck a slight snag! Anyway, before I found that out I'd installed the head studs - just nipped up with an alan key, pic 1. I made double sure the head and block surface were spotlessly clean and put the head gasket on, pic 2. I'm using a HKS 1.6mm gasket because the Jun pistons are designed to have a standard 8.5:1 compression ratio with that thickness of gasket. I installed a new union on the intake side of the head - the old one got damaged at some point and I had to remove it. Pic 3. Then I lubed up the threads of the studs, the washers and nuts with ARPs grease, and put the washers in the head. You need to do that as they won't go through the holes in the head after the stud is in place. Then I lowered the head on - this is a right fiddle and I had to use a pair of forceps to jiggle a couple of the washers on to the studs properly. In hindsight it may have been better to put the studs in after placing the head in position. That's about the point I realised ARP in their Americanness use 1/2inch nuts for the head studs rather than 12mm. I haven't got a 1/2inch deep socket and the one I have got is too shallow so I've had to order a 1/2inch deep socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 You may well find you need to turn the socket down to a smaller OD in a lathe, clearance is tight. I find it easier to block the head up a bit on the studs and winkle the washers in then, but you can of course fit the studs after the head is settled on its dowels. It's looking good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_have Posted August 18, 2008 Share Posted August 18, 2008 I had the same problem Si, ended up fitting the head on the dowels and winding in the studs after. Also had to machine a long series socket in the lathe (13mm). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted August 23, 2008 Author Share Posted August 23, 2008 My 1/2 inch deep socket turned up earlier in the week so I could fit the head. It's a 3/8 drive and fits perfectly as you can see in the pic with no need to modify it so that's good! So I torqued up the head in three stages following the order in the engine manual (this is very important). I used 70ftlbs with the ARP assembly grease, so I tightened them to 40ftlbs, then 55ftlbs, then 70ftlbs. Then I installed the cams. I had already measured the valve clearances and ordered and installed new shims for the exhaust side, and swapped some of the intake ones around to get the right clearances - I'll double check them again later. Again with the cams you torque the caps up in the order given in the manual. When you install the 1st cap you first apply sealer to the underside, see pic. That's pretty much all the assembly I can do before taking the other engine out to strip stuff off it - I'm hopefully going to do that this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted August 23, 2008 Share Posted August 23, 2008 that head looks new Simon how did you get it that clean ? certainly didn't look like mine when it was off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted August 24, 2008 Author Share Posted August 24, 2008 that head looks new Simon how did you get it that clean ? certainly didn't look like mine when it was off Can't take any credit for that Paul, the machine shop cleaned it up in their parts washer before (and after) they worked on it. It is lovely and clean though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luka-P Posted August 24, 2008 Share Posted August 24, 2008 excellent stuff! getting me in the mood for mine which needs doing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted August 27, 2008 Author Share Posted August 27, 2008 I've got my current engine out now. Took a bit longer than I thought. I was hoping to get it out Monday but I had to finish off yesterday as I lost the light before I could see why it wasn't coming out! I went for the engine only method rather than taking the gearbox out too - my garage is very small and there's just not room, plus my hoist is only capable of lifting 250Kg at maximum extension. I had to run the front into the garage as my drive is on a slope, which is a real PITA as you then can't get under the side. So you have to get under the front and shimmy back - my shoulders are now aching big time! It's worth planning ahead and making sure you've got everything disconnected beforehand rather than end up disconnecting things with it dangling! Having said that I still forgot to disconnect the speed sensor and reverse light connection from the gearbox and snapped the cable - will have to solder that one back together. It's quite funny looking at the front ride height once I'd put the bonnet back on and pushed it back down the drive, looks ridiculous! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted August 27, 2008 Share Posted August 27, 2008 Coming along Simon, out of interest what happened to the old engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted August 27, 2008 Author Share Posted August 27, 2008 Coming along Simon, out of interest what happened to the old engine? Good question mate! Basically it gradually started burning more and more oil. Smoke on boost and when getting back on the throttle after lifting off, which led me to think it was rings or possibly valve guides. At this point I started sorting out the rebuild of my other engine and driving it like a wuss. Got about half way to Le Mans this year and it started misfiring. I ended up nursing it the rest of the way and back on five cylinders - got home and there's zero compression on no.6 cylinder. Charlie and I had a peek in with his endoscope but we couldn't see anything obvious like a dirty big hole in the piston! Could be a stuck valve or something but the cams still turn normally. I'll find out when I take it to bits, pretty interested to find out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 That's pretty poor luck Simon. I remember seeing that engine at Triton before it got installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Batmax Posted September 2, 2008 Share Posted September 2, 2008 Right, this thread is long overdue an update! I got the machined block and head back a while ago. The block had been cleaned in a parts washer, then bored and honed. It was skimmed slightly to make it absolutely flat (it was pretty close anyway). The head was cleaned up, old valve guides pressed out and new Ferrea ones pressed in. It too was skimmed to make it absolutely flat. Then the seats were cut for the +1mm Ferrea valves and the head ported and matched to the exhaust and intake gaskets. It's a relatively mild port, but cleaned up inside a fair bit. He also repaired a thread on one of the core plug holes which I had mullered getting the plug out - it was machined, tapped for a size up and a new brass plug screwed in and sealed. Lesson learned - don't bother removing the core plugs from the head! Here's some pics of the head. Hi My head was worked to but I notice in you image he is dieferente worked pls see my pics : Your: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=78160&d=1215027617 Mine: I notice in mine it does not split could these be bad ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted September 30, 2008 Author Share Posted September 30, 2008 Hi My head was worked to but I notice in you image he is dieferente worked pls see my pics : I notice in mine it does not split could these be bad ? Sorry, I missed this. TBH, I really don't know. I'm not an expert on airflow etc. You pretty much have to rely on the head experts for this stuff, it's an art form. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted September 30, 2008 Author Share Posted September 30, 2008 Time for an update, just in case everyone thought I've been sitting on my arse instead of engine building! Although that's pretty close... Anyway, I've stripped everything off the current engine to swap over to the new one. Not very exciting cleaning up stuff so I haven't any photos. I also took the opportunity to tidy up my wiring loom while it's all out the car. I stripped all the uneccessary stuff out, that's all the sequential turbo VSVs, evap, traction control, narrowband O2 sensor etc. I traced the wires and pulled them out so they are now completely gone from ECU connector all the way. The traction control ECU harnesses have gone too. This is pretty time consuming and I wouldn't recommend anyone bothers unless they are quite anal and have too much time on their hands! So that, me then... I've bolted on the water pump (I'm reusing the current one as it's not very old), pic 1. You'll see that I have replaced the nipple that the water feed to my turbo was attached to with a proper threaded union, I'm changing the hoses at last and using proper aeromotive connectors on both ends. I've also put the cam gears (JUN), pulley and cam belt on, pic 2. The tensioner, cover and crank pulley have also been put on after the photo was taken. The oil filter mount and cooler are on, as is the water pipe, pic 3. I've also put the cam covers on, pic 4. There's a few other things I'm going to do while the engine is out. I'm moving my wideband O2 sensor from the 2nd decat pipe to the downpipe (which has a thread for it) and getting rid of the stock O2 sensor that was mounted there as I don't use it. I've bought a new 2nd decat without a WB bung as mine was rusty and pretty skanky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 Looks a stunning job, very pretty have you considered losing the stock oil to water heat exchanger and mounting the filter straight to the block with a remote cooler sandwich plate? Takes load off the water cooling system and tidies up the region, plus deletes a few water hoses and pipework. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_have Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 Looking good Si, should be ready for the Ringwood meet next Tues? Are you degreeing the cams? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted September 30, 2008 Author Share Posted September 30, 2008 Looks a stunning job, very pretty have you considered losing the stock oil to water heat exchanger and mounting the filter straight to the block with a remote cooler sandwich plate? Takes load off the water cooling system and tidies up the region, plus deletes a few water hoses and pipework. I do have a remote cooler as well, a 19 row Mocal one. Never really thought of removing the stock one though. Hmmm, might have a think about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted September 30, 2008 Author Share Posted September 30, 2008 Looking good Si, should be ready for the Ringwood meet next Tues? Are you degreeing the cams? Not quite! Got a few more toys I've been buying to add on while the engine's out, like a shiny new intake manifold & throttle body (when it arrives) I've set the cam gears to 0 at the moment so it's effectively at the stock timing. I figure the best thing is to fiddle around with the timing on the dyno while being mapped to see what works best anyway so I haven't bothered degreeing them. Plus I'm not sure I have all the info for the JUN cams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted January 31, 2009 Author Share Posted January 31, 2009 It's been ages since the last update on my engine build, I've mainly been waiting for various bits from various suppliers. Anyway, update time! First of all I decided to do what Chris suggested and bin the stock oil cooler assembly and mount my filter takeoff direct to the block. That removes the need for the coolant feed to the cooler, and I've also binned the feed to the idle control valve as it's not needed with our climate. So what I decided to do was replace my TT water pipe from the water pump with a NA one, which doesn't go round the back of the block. Much neater. I haven't got a pic of the TT water pipe handy, but you can see the NA one in place in the first pic. I had to modify the bracket that attaches it to the back of the block a bit. The other problem you have with attaching the takeoff direct to the block is that you need a union bolt to go into the block to screw the thing into. I got a tip off supraforums that you could use a part from another Toyota which I duly ordered. However, it's too short - it ends up flush with the block. I hunted high and low for an alternative - you can use a Ford part apparently but it's a USA part and a pain to source. Eventually I found an extension which has a male thread and a female. I cut that down, threaded the male end into the block and the Toyota union I'd bought into the female - result a nice bolt length to attach the takeoff to. You can see the bolt in the 2nd pic and the takeoff attached in the 3rd. I'll replace the straight threaded adaptors that go into it with 45 degree ones I think. You'll have to block the water return nipple on the block too, I've just done that with a bit of hose blocked with a bolt for now although I'll probably replace it with a proper plug if I can find the correct thread size to go into the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted January 31, 2009 Author Share Posted January 31, 2009 I gave in to temptation and bought a Ross Machine Racing intake manifold. It's a really nice bit of engineering, lovely welds, proper velocity stacks etc. There is also no need to move the battery, PAS reservoir or intercooler pipes. You can see it bolted on in the pics. It comes with a fuel rail and the correct size holes in the manifold for Bosch type top feed injectors (which I have). It has a flange for a 90mm Ford Mustang throttle body - I bought a Wilson one. There's quite a few things you have to do to fit an intake manifold like this. It has ports on the side for the stock idle control valve and various vac ports. Those will be used by the brake booster (you need to change the fitting on the hose), the fuel pressure reg/MAP sensor via the stock damper thingy, my BOV and the return from the PAS idle bypass on the pump. The other problem you have is what to do with the intake air temp sensor. These intakes are made in the USA and US spec cars don't have it so there's no provision for it. The Wilson TB has two ports in it which are designed for the Mustang idle control valve - one is in front of the throttle blade and one behind it. Normally you would block those off with a plate I bought. I found that the one in front of the blade is almost exactly the right size to tap a thread for the intake temp sensor though, so that's what I did after modding the blockoff. Very neat and quite cunning I thought! See the pic. That leaves the IN port for the PAS idle bypass. I'm going to tap into my intercooler pipe for that. I also need to knock up a bracket to attach the diagnostic port and dipstick. Plus a bracket to mount the throttle cable to - that I'll do when it's in the car I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 Nice intake manifold, looks the same one as Ryan woon runs on his new drag car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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