Wez Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 What size fitting have you got on your cam covers, are they -10 or bigger? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 What size fitting have you got on your cam covers, are they -10 or bigger? to keep the breathers the same as stock you need -12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 to keep the breathers the same as stock you need -12 I thought the stock fittings were a tad over 10mm which is closer to -10 isnt it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted March 1, 2009 Share Posted March 1, 2009 I thought the stock fittings were a tad over 10mm which is closer to -10 isnt it? once you pull the grommet off the plenum side you are left with roughly a -12 hole, i suppose you could use -10 (it would be cheaper ) but that would only match stock and we are talking about engines shifting a lot more air than stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted March 1, 2009 Author Share Posted March 1, 2009 Well, mine are -12. You're right, the fittings are not cheap! I got the engine back in the car yesterday with the help of a couple of friends! Probably the most effort was pushing the car up my sloping drive to get the front of it into the garage and level. Once we (well ok, they ) had done that I put some moly grease on the gearbox input shaft and slipped on the clutch plate and disc. Then with the transmission jacked up as high as it would go we lifted the engine in with my crane and manouvered it into position. I then managed to get one of the transmission bolts in and tighten it up to bring the two together, with a fair bit of wiggling and manouvering! Then I removed the jack under the transmission and lowered the engine crane carefully so it dropped onto the engine mounts, not as much of a pain as I thought it might, although having no room either side of the car in my garage is a pain! Didn't take any photos, sorry... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 Well, we're getting there now. I've been busy doing lots of jobs before she'll be ready for the big fire up! Quite a few as a result of changing the intake manifold - bit PITA that. Then there's the general refitting of stuff and some other little jobs as a result of changing things while the engine was out, namely: I have moved my wideband from the 2nd decat pipe to the bottom of my downpipe, which has a bung for that purpose, and removed the stock O2 sensor which wasn't doing anything. I changed the 2nd decat pipe as mine was pretty rusted and crappy. Because I removed the stock oil cooler (see earlier in thread) I had to change my oil hoses and fittings a bit to reach. I also sprayed by exhaust manifold while it was off with a high temp coating - it was looking pretty tatty! Here's a couple of pics of the engine in and mostly sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 Because I changed the intake manifold I had to make up a bracket for the throttle cable - I'm using a Lokar cable. I found a bracket that goes between the throttle body and manifold to which I attached a bracket I fabricated to hold the cable. You can see it in the attached close up from an earlier pic. I also had to drill a hole in the throttle body and tap it 1/8NPT to put a fitting in infront of the throttle blade to go to the power steering idle bypass - the other end goes to a fitting in the intake manifold. The other thing you can see is the intake air temp sensor - I tapped a hole in the TB normally used for the idle control valve on the mustang this TB comes from to bolt that in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 To make sure I didn't forget anything I made up a checklist of stuff to do. I'll post it up to give people an idea what I've been up to since the engine went back! Intake related make brake booster line & fit make throttle cable bracket make throttle cable (i.e. with barrel end) engine ground straps - fit front, mid, rear modify bracket for dipstick & fit install power steering bypass fitting before thottle fit power steering bypass mani hose sort out rad expansion bottle fit throttle cable, trim to length, adjust etc. Engine Install related connect fuel hoses block coolant nipple on head fit downpipe & gearbox mounting bracket fit 2nd decat pipe fit exhaust bolt up clutch refit clutch slave cylinder & hose reconnect boost gauge hose secure oil filter remote mount make up new oil cooler hose & fit change fitting on cooler hose & fit refit aircon compressor refit power steering pump, secure hoses to block bottom. refit aux belt refit ignitor etc writing refit boost controller & plumb in fit intercooler & hoses fit BOV refit rad hoses & fan wiring refit undertray refit battery fit airbox & intake refit fmic plate etc refit bumper refit lights refit bonnet refit starter & wiring secure FPR hoses remember to put sump plug in! oil filter on fill with running in oil refill coolant Other stuff make up turbo side heat shield refit ecu fit & wire in wideband Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Tidy! HUGE cam breather hoses! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luka-P Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Looks great Simon. Best of luck when firing her up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 interested to see how the Ross Machine plenum performs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 interested to see how the Ross Machine plenum performs Me too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luka-P Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 Any news Simon? Looking forward to this beauty coming back on the road! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted April 3, 2009 Author Share Posted April 3, 2009 I'm hoping to fire it up tomorrow. I was going to do it last weekend but had a few problems to sort out. To start with I was getting no power to the ECU. Got the multimeter out and probed around before I discovered I hadn't locked the big orange multiplug into place above the ECU. It was connected but not locked into place. Then after filling it with coolant and water and checking everything the starter wouldn't turn. This turned out after more multimetering to be a small grey plug on the harness that wasn't plugged in on the left hand side by the ECU - easy to miss as it's hidden by the other plugs and I thought it was the plug for the traction control ECU or something. Anyway it's all ready now, and re-insured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 Good luck with it Simon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 Hope it all goes well. What's the running-in procedure going to involve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted April 5, 2009 Author Share Posted April 5, 2009 It lives! Had some problems getting oil pressure to start with, in fact it took most of the afternoon! I ended up using a hand pump to pump oil through the oil lines to my oil cooler (from the oilstat), the return to the block from the oilstat and back up the feed from the block to the oil filter. Having the remote filter, cooler and oil thermostat definitely didn't help. Eventually after a lot of mess and fiddle I got the pump to prime. It pretty much fired straight up. It runs a little rough - it needs the map tweaking a bit but it's ok on the wideband closed loop on the Motec. I forgot just how much new heatwrap smokes, bit disconcerting having clouds of smoke come out of the bonnet! Took it for a quick shakedown drive, the new clutch is really grabby right now! I need to sort a few things out, I have a couple of coolant leaks from the hose going from the pipe on the block to the heater matrix, plus my oil pressure sensor isn't working, think the plug is connected in wrong. Think the power steering needs bleeeding too. Still, I'm a happy man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted April 5, 2009 Author Share Posted April 5, 2009 Hope it all goes well. What's the running-in procedure going to involve? Always hard to know which of the contradictory ones to go for! I'm going to do a mixture I think, I'm going to give it progressively more throttle and back off aka Motoman, but no real positive boost. Then I'm going to change the oil and filter after 50 miles or so and drive it with varying throttle and engine load, keeping it off much boost (it needs a remap anyway) and under 4krpm. It needs to be MOTd too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 Fantastic stuff Simon. Good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted April 5, 2009 Share Posted April 5, 2009 Always hard to know which of the contradictory ones to go for! I'm going to do a mixture I think, I'm going to give it progressively more throttle and back off aka Motoman, but no real positive boost. Then I'm going to change the oil and filter after 50 miles or so and drive it with varying throttle and engine load, keeping it off much boost (it needs a remap anyway) and under 4krpm. It needs to be MOTd too. understand you apprehension with the running in Simon i have been looking at this for a while and its hard to know what to do for the best, in one of my tuning books (A. Graham Bell) he mentions about bringing the car up to medium revs then snapping the throttle shut to get the vacuum to make the rings seat, as i've never heard of "Motoman" is this what your refering to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveR Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Excellent. Glad it went well - a testament to your efforts no doubt. So, will you be signing up for Supra Pod and more importantly, Llandow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted April 6, 2009 Author Share Posted April 6, 2009 understand you apprehension with the running in Simon i have been looking at this for a while and its hard to know what to do for the best, in one of my tuning books (A. Graham Bell) he mentions about bringing the car up to medium revs then snapping the throttle shut to get the vacuum to make the rings seat, as i've never heard of "Motoman" is this what your refering to Yes, that's it. It's all over the internet, he basically advocates using first 50% throttle, letting it coast down, then 75%, then 100% (and max rpm too!). To be honest I don't think any of these methods actually makes much difference. You can kind of see the logic behind most of them, even the contradictory ones! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 Hey SImon - glad to see it's all shaped up nicely! Out of interest, what was it you used on the exhaust manifold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted April 19, 2009 Author Share Posted April 19, 2009 Hey SImon - glad to see it's all shaped up nicely! Out of interest, what was it you used on the exhaust manifold? Cheers! It was Tech Line black satin exhaust paint, this stuff: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=NIM1004 Tech Line do a ceramic coating too but that needs baking in an oven. I've sorted a few things out this weekend. The heater hoses at the back of the block were leaking - I think the rubber had perished a bit and the clamps Toyota use are a bit rubbish too. I replaced the lot with some 16mm flexible silicon hose (15.8mm ID) - this stuff has a wire spiral so it can be bent without collapsing. So now there are just two lengths of this hose, one going from the water pipe attached to the block directly to the heater matrix pipe on the rear bulkhead and the other from the rear of the head to the other matrix pipe. Gets rid of those naff metal joiner pipes at the back, looks much neater and hopefully won't leak! I also tidied a few other bits up, refitted my stick-on indicator repeaters that are needed for MOT and the air duct to my air box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 The heater hoses at the back of the block were leaking - I think the rubber had perished a bit and the clamps Toyota use are a bit rubbish too. I replaced the lot with some 16mm flexible silicon hose (15.8mm ID) - this stuff has a wire spiral so it can be bent without collapsing. So now there are just two lengths of this hose, one going from the water pipe attached to the block directly to the heater matrix pipe on the rear bulkhead and the other from the rear of the head to the other matrix pipe. Gets rid of those naff metal joiner pipes at the back, looks much neater and hopefully won't leak! Any pics of this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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