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NA to TT engine transplant - step by step guide (Pic heavy)


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NA-TT Installation

 

I've decided to start doing a write up of my engine swap/conversion that im currently doing to help any others that might want to give it a go themselves ;)

Parts...

 

-Complete TT engine (with loom)

-TT Dial cluster

-TT airbox

-TT Inlet pipe (goes from the airbox to the manifold0

-TT throttle cable

-TT power steering reservoir

-Intercooler and piping

-Uprated clutch/tt autobox

-TT igniter pack

-TT ECU

-TT throttle control ECU

 

 

Tools...

 

-Engine crane

-decent chains/straps/rope to lift the engine

-Torque bar

-Blow lamp for difficult nuts and bolts...especially on the exhaust. (although i have heard plus gas is very good.)

-Clutch alignment tool

-Obviously a decent tool box with sockets, spanners etc... definatly get 2 sets of 12mm, 14mm and 17mm spanners as these get used allot.

 

Day 1 & 2

 

-Picked up the engine and got it on a pallet with wheels on it so that i can move it about easily

 

-Gave the engine a good clean and polish

-Before any of this i covered up all the electrical connectors and hose ends with small bags and elastic bands

-Ive used auto glym engine cleaner on mine and a small water spray gun attached to a compressor. This doesn't use that much water and runs at about 8 bar (so good for blasting off all the dirt!)

 

 

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Day 3

Spent today just preparing the car

 

-Got the car jacked up and the front wheels off

 

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-Then removed the battery, headlamps, bumper and active spoiler

 

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-Next job was to remove the 2jz-ge ecu from the passenger footwell. Carpet needs removing aswell as a plastic cover.

 

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(Then it started to rain! so thats all i got done today)

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Edited by JustGav (see edit history)
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Day 4

 

Got quite a bit done today, although it doesnt look allot it all took me about 4 hours

 

-removed the air intake piping, filter and exhaust heat shield

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-removed the first cat. all 4 nuts aswell as the 2 bolts on the second cat pipe were taken off from underneath the car using a long extension (requires allot of strength and penetrating fluid..possibly even heating the nuts up.)

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-drained the coolant from the radiator. There is a small white drain plug that you undo. in the picture it has just been undone a little bit. but the whole plug can come out for a faster drain. (the coolant running down from the top is because i undid the upper rad hose. this will speed it up, oh and yeah there will be some coolant in it!!:D) i also undid the lower rad hose too after the drain.

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-Then i drained the coolant from the block. There is a drain plug located on the drivers side towards the rear. (picture isn't very good, but the cat needs to be off and its just below the shiny coolant pipe that runs horizontally, which is that blurry thing running along the middle of the picture)

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-removed the 3 coil pack leads

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-removed the alternator lead

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-removed the lead from the ignitor pack

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-removed the two connectors on the fusebox

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-removed the battery lead from the fusebox. a flap needs opening to reveal a nut that needs undoing for this

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-removed the ground lead which sits at the back of the engine

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-removed the two coolant pipes that go into the firewall at the back

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The next job is the power steering lines. These run from the pump, underneath the engine (bolting onto the sump) and into the steering box.

 

This is quite a messy job so gloves and rags at hand is a good tip.

 

-you can see here on this picture the two fluid lines next to one another that bolt onto the sump. i undid the two bolts.

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-I then took off the rubber pipe that connects to the pipe on the passenger side and drained the steering fluid. The other line doesn't have a pipe that disconnects from it, this instead is fixed on and works its way round to the pump and reservoir. take the rubber pipe off of the drivers side once the fluid has drained (some may still come out of this pipe)

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-The large bolt in this picture needs taking out as well as the two small rubber hoses. make sure its just the bolt turning and not the whole assembly. use a spanner on the other larger nut to stop this (the brown rusty one an inch further up in the picture). (only do this once the fluid has all drained, but a small amount may still come out so have a rag handy.)

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-On the steering box there is a similar connection to that on the pump. Take this off. In the picture i have put the bolt back in to stop debre getting in. and have done the same on the pump too.

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-Now with that all off i weaved the pump pipe down through to the bottom of the engine and brought the whole lot out...

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- a good tip is to bag all the pipes. this prevents dirt getting in and collects any of the extra drips

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Edited by miko_supra (see edit history)
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day 5

 

For today my main aim was to detatch the a/c pump from the engine. i wanted to do this so that i could keep all of the lines attached to it and mate the same one onto the tt block, thus not having to spend £50 regasing it. Although you can purge all the gas if you wish it doesnt really matter.

 

-So to begin with i removed the fan cover, which is just 4 bolts at all 4 corners

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-The a/c pump has 5 fixings

-3 bolts at the front

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-1 bolt from underneath

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-and a further nut and stud attached to the side. the stud needs to come out too (one of those star shaped heads)

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-once they are all undone, the drive belt needs to be slackened off. This is done using a socket on a braker bar and just pushing down clockwise.

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-when the belt is slackened, pull the pump away from the belt and rest it just below ensuring none of he pipes aren't under any stress.

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-ok with that done another little job was to remove the fuel line from the fuel filter by undoing a the large bolt in the picture, aswell as the earth lead too.

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-a small amount of fuel trickeled out of the filter and fuel line, but after a couple of minutes the fuel started to syphon out of the tank. so to solve this problem, gain access to the pump underneath the spare wheel and remove this fuel line (placing the bolt back it to stop debre getting in.)

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-tomorrow im planning on removing the drive shaft so to gain a better access in the area i removed the rear wheels, exhaust (the whole lot including 2nd cat) and exhaust heat shields.

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-this is what needs taking off tomorrow or whenever

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Edited by miko_supra (see edit history)
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day 6 part 1

 

ok to get back on with were i left off yesterday i got the drive shaft off of the car...

 

-firstly remove the two brackets, first one that is attached to the drive shaft, held in with two bolts

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-the second is located further back and isn't actually attached to the shaft, but will get in the way when trying to pull the shaft out.

-once they are off, undo the 3 bolts on the diff shown in the picture.

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-Now the shaft can be slid out by pushing it towards the gearbox, taking it off of the locating shaft from the diff and removing it completely

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-Next was the gear shift assembly. Firstly remove the ashtray, and gear knob then remove the dash piece that surrounds the gear lever.

-then remove the metal fixing, which are 4 screws and remove the rubber gator and seal (these both pull out.)

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-Then undo these 4 screws here

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-Underneath the car, pull back a rubber cover and disconnect this bracket from the gear shifter (its a nut and a bolt.) Then you can pull the gear shift out through the top inside the car. (Also in this pic you can see where the prop shaft was located into the gearbox

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-now you need to drain the gearbox oil by undoing this bolt here.

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-then take off part of the clutch fork mechanism (left hand side of gearbox.) undo 3 bolts. two are easy to get to and one is located from the font of the engine which also attaches the bracket for the fuel filter ground lead (so that needs coming off with it and putting somewhere safe). the picture shows the location of the 3rd bolt.(to the left of the picture is the engine sump) once off, just let the lot dangle.

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-now remove the gearbox bracket by undoing these 4 bolts and 4 nuts. Don't worry, the gearbox wont fall on your face!

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-once the bracket is off, remove this part too, which is what the 4 nuts were attached to

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-now the ECU loom needs taking out. theres a big white and orange connector in the foot well that is mounted at the back. take it off the mount and try and pull these two apart. took me about 5 mins to eventually work out how to do it. and just make sure everything is free to travel up through the heat shield.

-to help getting it out undo the two bolts that hold the charcoal cannister in and pull it away from the firewall.

-then undo the 3 bolts for the loom shown in the picture.

-the metal bracket that bolts onto the firewall was a bit sticky on mine and just needed some gently prising with a flathead screw driver to make it come away. now just pull it through (a second person to be down in the foot well is handy)

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-once out just lay it on top of the engine

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-now take the throttle cable off of the throttle body. just loosen this nut in the picture, pull the butterfly spring mechanism towards the drivers side and slide it out. (just leave the cable on the side of the engine bay for now)

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-now take the bonnet off. before hand remember to take off the windscreen washer line. the whole line doesn't need to come off just the part nearest where it leaves the bonnet and travels into the wing (just clips and pulling the hose off from the rest is all that's involved)

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-to take the bonnet off is easy, but a second person is needed. just take off the 4 bolts from the hinges (2 each side) and away you go. Not as heavy as i originally thought either.

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Edited by miko_supra (see edit history)
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day 6 part 2

 

-it was just a case now of disconnecting a few things that i had forgotten about before...

 

-ok first there was this connector on this steering box

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-then this vacuum line that goes to the braking system (take the hose off where indicated or it will get in the way when taking the engine out.)

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-then this connector here the whole thing comes off with the bracket

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-then this fuel line here which is located passenger side near to where the inlet manifold curves round.

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-there was also a hose that went into the charcoal cannister that needs disconnecting too.

 

-i decided to take the radiator out as well to give me some more room. this is just two 10mm bolts on the brackets at the top.

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-Make sure all the looms are on top of the engine and aren't going to get caught on anything. (one thing i found was the fuel line from the fuel filter was caught on the front cross member so i brought that up and tucked in onto the engine near the top)

 

-Now get your engine crane and strap it/ tie it/ chain it...whatever to your engine. there are two lifting points on the engine- one at the back left and one at the front right.

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-i then decided to remove the fan too for more clearance. this is just 4 nuts holding it in.

 

-then the engine mounts need undoing. these are just two nuts from underneath

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-i also took off the drivers side mount completely as it was going to foul on the steering box. this is just another nut from on top

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-there where three of us for this job.

 

-one to control the engine crane

-the other to be in charge and control the engine coming out making sure nothing was hitting (careful of the a/c pump if you have disconnected it from the engine) and to steer it

-the third (ME!) to lay under the car and hold onto the tail of the gearbox making sure it doesn't hit and pushing down on it to help it clear.

 

 

-and then it was out! a tip i learnt is to put a bag over the revealed end of the gearbox as a small amount of oil may still trickle out.

 

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Edited by miko_supra (see edit history)
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Looking good. Go team! lol

With the wiring loom, did you just trace it back along and undo the connectors as you went?

 

they are all located in close proximity with one another. 3 of them are connected to the ECU, and you can work out what the other ones are with common sense

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day 7

 

just a little bit of work done today...got the gearbox, clutch and flywheel off.

 

-Ok firstly disconnect these two connectors and lay them on top of the engine

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-then undo these bolts. including the two that hold in the starter motor on the left

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-remember to do this bolt on the other side down on the right. there was an exact same on on the left too, but this was taken off with the clutch fork assembly before the engine came out, which holds in a bracket.

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-before taking the gearbox off remember that the C of G is going to be completely changed so just bare this in mind as the engine will tilt forward (get anything out of the way)

-then just slide the gear box out. there are only a couple of 3/4 inch long studs locating the gearbox, that hold it in. so just slide it off of these. the box doesn't weigh too much and is easy enough to carry by yourself (but still watch your back and all that for this one)

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-now take the clutch out. the part you can see at the moment is the housing which contains the release mechanism. there are just 6 bolts for this and it comes right out with the clutch.

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-I still haven't decided what clutch to use on mine yet, but I've been told that the stock clutch is sill good for stock power on the tt. Mine looks like its on its last legs any way so its worth replacing if you are still sticking with stock.

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-now take the fly wheel off which is 8 bi hex bolts. when you try and undo them the fly wheel will turn, so to get over this, gently place a flathead screwdriver between the teeth on the fly wheel and wedge it into part of the housing at the back (indicated where i put the screwdriver on mine in the picture) or alternatively if you used an air powered gun to undo them, the impact shock would overcome the flywheel turning i would imagine.

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-two parts to the fly wheel. The primary (which has the teeth) and the secondary which sits in front and what the clutch presses against.

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-now im using my n/a 5 speed box to put onto the tt engine, so the 5 speed fly wheel needs putting onto the tt. and obviously if you were using a 6 speed, then you would need a 6 speed fly wheel.

-to put the fly wheel on put in all the bolts and do them up to leave 1 thread showing. then tap around the fly wheel with a rubber mallet to ensure the flywheel is properly located. keep doing this as you tighten them up with a ratchet.

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-the bolts must be tightened up in pairs (ie; tighten one up, then tighten the one opposite that one. then the next pair should be at 90 degrees to the last pair.

-Torque the bolts using a torque wrench to 36ft.lbs and then turn them a further 90 degrees.

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Edited by miko_supra (see edit history)
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should have a couple of decent bits to write up tomorrow...going to install the side mount, new spark plugs, new ecu, new throttle cable and take out the old rev counter but now i'm just waiting on some parts till i can put the new engine in. these being....

 

tt rev counter

1st cat

tt power steering reservoir

inlet pipe

tt airbox

new flywheel bolts (i got these from mvp with the new clutch for £20 from toyota its about £80)

and i've decided to go for an RPS max clutch with street disc (should have this in a couple of weeks)

 

*Edit by Homer: Pic missing*

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did a little job today. thought i'd write it up to let people know as its well worth it as the engine is out and you have full access. i just replaced all the of the rubber vacuum hoses on the engine with silicone ones. half of them you could get access to with the engine in the car but the other half are all tucked away. these hoses are getting old now and can crack resulting in a loss in boost pressure, it's also only a £20 job

 

sizes needed were

 

4mm- 2 meters

5mm- 1 meter

6mm- 1 meter

8mm- 1 meter

 

all ordered in black from http://www.espdesign.co.uk/esp.storefront/EN/Catalog/SRP_SVT?ProductType=SRP_SVT&browse=1

 

oh and it's also worthwhile getting a cover for your engine if your keeping it outside with all this crappy weather.

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(possibly get some students to steal some traffic cones too)

 

My rps clutch should be arriving during the week so if the weather is nice i may well get that fitted next weekend, meaning im all set to put the engine in :D!!

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Edited by miko_supra (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

ok got some bits through this week. which means i can start getting this project back on the road again on monday as im off for a week.

 

i got...

 

my new rps clutch and pressure plate

oil 9 (it's 0w40, but got this very cheap from a mate at halfords, so i'll exchange it for some 10w40 as 0w40 is too thin)

oil filter

rocker cover gaskets

fly wheel bolts

 

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Edited by miko_supra (see edit history)
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Day 9

 

Ok hopefully going to get the engine in tomorrow as i have everything done now that needed to be done before hand.

 

firstly, i installed my new fly wheel bolts that i got through, and then i put the clutch assembly on...

 

-it is important that the clutch is put on the right way around...the springs stick out more on one side that the other; the side where it sticks out more is the side that needs to face the gearbox.

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-next, install the clutch alignment tool

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-then slide on the clutch (the right way around!)

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-then slap on the clutch housing/pressure plate, there are locating studs for this

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-then torque the clutch bolts to 14 ft.lbs each

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-next task i did was to drain the old oil and replace the oil filter. obviously you can do this in the car if you wish it doesn't really matter.

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-next i got the gearbox on

-torque the gearbox bolts up...37Nm for the 14mm bolts and 72Nm for the 17mm bolts

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-then i connected up the gearbox sensors

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Originally i thought my engine was from an auto, which has different gearbox connectors, so i asked jezz how to resolve this and this was what i got...

 

the big plug with the most wires in (6/7 wires?) has the reverse light wires in and these need joining to the reverse light switch. You just need to put 12v to each one until you get the right one that brings on the reverse lights, and the 2 thicker wires on the connector need snipping and joining together. The only other one thats used is the speed sensor which has the right plug on anyway. The ones that aren't used, we just tape up and tuck out of the way.

 

hopefully that will help

 

(NB: ensure you put something like copper grease on all the studs/bolts when reassembling)

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Edited by miko_supra (see edit history)
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Day 10

just needed to do one little job before the engine goes in...

 

-take the old n/a throttle cable out, there are two bolts located in the drivers foot well, which are on a bracket next to the top of the throttle pedal.

-just undo these and pull the old cable out through the foot well and install the new one (which is of course longer)

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-then i got the tt engine in, which was a nightmare to say the least. you need to try and tie it up to the crane so that the gearbox end is heavier so it can slide in better

-obviously the bonnet needs to come off for this, and also take the fan off for better clearance

-the engine is now just resting in its place and a jack under the gearbox waiting to be secured in

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Day 11

twas freeeeeezing today. but still got some stuff done!

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i started taking photos, but figured it wasn't really necessary as everything i did today was just refitting what was taken off.

 

-firstly i got the engine loom through the firewall and down into the foot well. this was pretty time confusing and fiddly

 

-next was to attach the grounding lead at the top of the firewall

 

-then connect the two coolant pipes up at the back of the engine

 

-then take off the old igniter pack and fit the new one

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-fit fuel line to pipe the pipe on the passenger side that connects to the fuel rail

 

-connect alternator positive lead and screw down

 

-fit a/c pump

 

-fit gearbox cross member (not torqued yet)

 

-fit engine mount nuts (not torqued yet)

 

-fit gear lever

 

-fit prop shaft and fit nuts and bolts 58lbs.ft

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day 11 part 2

ok just did all the small little odd bits...

(still waiting on a few little bits, if your wondering why i havnt already done some other stuff)

 

-connected the ecu's up (you need a 2jz-gte ecu to replace the 2jz-ge one and a throttle control ecu which is about half the size of the main ecu) these both sit in the passenger foot well and are joined up to the engine loom that got fed down.

 

-next fit the new tt air box

 

- then fit the inter cooler piping

-this diagram will explain better than any pictures

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-then connect up the steering rack connector

-theres a round one and a square one on the TT, im yet to find out what the round one is for, but the square one is what goes into the steering rack

 

 

-fit the throttle cable. it connects up onto the part nearest passenger side. the other is for cruise control if you have that

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-then fit the fan (if you had taken it off)

 

-then fit the radiator and upper and lower radiator hoses.

 

-fill the radiator with coolant

 

-then fit the exhaust heat shields

 

-refit this bracket

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-refit exhaust system (2nd cat, cat back)

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day 12

 

-fitted the inter cooler

-fitted the inlet pipe from the air box to the manifold

 

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-fitted the new tt power steering reservoir and piping.

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-now the engine can be safely test run...

-ensure all the electrical connectors are connected properly (check and double check!) as you don't to stress yourself out trying to find why the engine wont start.

-check your coolant and fuel lines!

 

Dont be surprised it if doesn't all go to plan first time around...

-i turned the key in mine, then discovered the battery was flat, so i hooked it up to my other cars battery and turned the key. the starter motor was running fine, but the engine didnt want to start. i looked under the car to discover a large puddle of petrol underneath the petrol filter. a washer was missing from the bolt that held down the fuel line to the engine DOH! so i soon found this and fitted that.

 

-turned the key again and the engine fired up just fine!

-although once looking around i noticed a horrible chattering noise coming from the front of the engine. i soon discovered that the power steering system needed bleeding as there was allot of bubbles in the reservoir.

 

to bleed the system...

-jack the front end of the car off the ground, start the engine and move the steering wheel full lock left to full lock right (i did this about 10-15 times) this should bleed the system no problem.

 

-ok with that sorted i took the car for a little test drive (no bumper fitted so couldn't use the main roads...just up the block and back was all i did)

-drive it carefully, check the clutch and gears all engage properly and TEST YOUR BRAKES! then bring it back and keep it running. then do a leak check (i hadn't fitted the floor pan yet for this reason)

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Edited by miko_supra (see edit history)
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day 13

ok now just to add the final touches.

 

-fitted the active spoiler and front bumper

 

-fitted the engine pan

 

-fitted the new tt tack (the whole cluster including speedo, rev counter, petrol and temp gauge.) i had an auto tack which meant it had all the gear select lights on the rev counter. theres no point trying to swap over the manual face as you have to take the whole thing apart and you can run the risk of messing up the calibration. for the moment i just took all the bulbs out the back and stuck a piece of black tape over them, until i get some new nice white dials to go over the top.

-this might help http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/Indiglo_gauge/index.html

 

-then fitted the gear surround and gear knob

 

-secured the ecu's, refitted the foot well cover and carpet.

 

-then i took the car out for a short run. the 1st turbo should kick in just under 3000rpm and the second comes in at around 4500rpm. you'll feel and hear them, so if you don't notice both stages then something ain't right!

 

-the car ran well, and it was better than i had predicted, this engine really is a magnificent piece of engineering by toyota. :):):):) It was abit damp so i couldn't give it too much. You also need to go easy on the clutch if its new and run it in properly.

 

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thanks jezz at silverstone garage for supplying me with the engine and parts and thanks all those on here that provided me with some excellent advise :)

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Edited by miko_supra (see edit history)
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