Nathan

We mount the solonoids on the offside of the engine bay, and go through the grommet behind the wheel arch liner, which comes through near the pedalbox. Makes for a nice neat job. Cheers, Nathan TDI PLC

Get underneath the car and have a look. I was losing fluid on my UK car, 60K miles and found that one of the plastic-coated metal pipes from the rack to the pump was leaking. It was for no other reason than the pipe had corroded underneath the plastic sheath. Would've been a better idea to not sheathe them at all IMO because all it does is keep the water IN!! A few minutes removing it, brazing it up and topping up fluid meant problem solved. I've yet to see a leaky rack yet so fingers crossed. Cheers, Nathan TDI PLC

Blimey Gra, where did that come from? Chris, I know what you mean about alcohol & monoxide....and I'm only 31. Lord knows what I'll be like at your age.....probably be a recluse in a big house in the middle of nowhere with a bloody great dog to keep me company.... Cheers, Nathan. TDI PLC

Hmm....I'm not sure Chris. The 62.42 figure assumes you are dealing with water as your CFM side of the equation, which is obviously quite far removed from the air that Ian is trying to convert. On top of that, theres no mention of 'per min' in the 62.42 conversion either. In short, I don't think the 62.42 figure is of any use whatsover. Ian, don't go anywhere yet..... Cheers, Nathan TDI PLC

Now that is one seriously bloody good question..... I'm not even sure that the conversion is possible? CFM will not take into account air density but lbs/min will, which is why I guess turbo manufacturers would use it as I think it would be more accurate. I must admit I'm pretty unsure on this. I have 16 pages of A4 in front of me with conversion factors for just about everything on the planet and yet there is no mention of this conversion. The nearest is CFM>LBs of WATER (62.4242). I would think that using this equation could mean some funny figures... Maybe find the conversion for water to air and use the above formula? Thing is, we are back to density again, which will affect the weight... AARGGHHH!!! Nathan TDI PLC

Hi matt, £98.50 excluding VAT. Cheers, Nathan TDI PLC

Never said they mapped ALL Jap cars to 100 RON fuel..... Out of interest, what RON do you think they map the import JZA80 to? Regards Nathan TDI PLC

I forgot to say that if you do not have an FCD then you are unlikely to be boosting more than .95 bar. If you are detting at that boost level then you REALLY have a problem that needs sorting out.... Regards, Nathan TDI PLC

Hi Andrew, Yes, the import IS mapped to 100 RON fuel but it's well known that the cars can run 97 or 98 RON with no problem, even at 1.2 bar. Indeed, theres plenty on this very BBS who are doing just that, and FWIW I will catagorically state myself that it is safe and would be happy to run my own car at that. So, a direct question, are you running more than 1.2 bar? If not, then I will say again that you have a problem and IMO an AFR adjuster won't help, especially if like you say it is the top end which is causing problems as the MAP sensor will be maxed at that point. An AFR adjuster will certainly shove more fuel in lower down but that isn't where your problem is, and it shouldn't be needed anyway as the cars do not run lean up to 1.2 bar.........unless your fuel pump is shagged for example. But then it could be dirty injectors...or a faulty knock sensor...or...or....the possibilites are endless. I fully accept that Millers solves the problem, but personally I think it's masking something that shouldn't be there in the first place. There's plenty of things that could cause det (you might even have a modded ECU with a map specifically for race fuel for example) but I won't go into detail here as thats what your tuner is for and besides, speculation gets you nowhere. BTW, I don't know who they are, and personally I don't really care, but I'd suggest you find someone else to work on the car who can actually tell you why a car is detting. I'd wager that no-one on this site knows or uses them.... Regards, Nathan TDI PLC

A short, simple question: Why is the car detonating? All Supras (even imports) are quite happy on 1.2 bar with Super Unleaded. If you are running more boost than this an AFR won't help because your MAP is maxed anyway. If it's detting for any other reason then there is a problem that needs to be fixed, not more bits added on. Regards, Nathan TDI PLC PS: I wouldn't say £350 is overpriced for a good job, but I'd just like to know that you defo need the parts first...

Adam, look at it this way: Do you think that it's 'normal' for a boost controllers display to show 1.1 bar when an independant gauge shows 1.5? All manner of things could be wrong: calibration, signal line takeoff, faulty solonoid, even a faulty head unit. All I'm saying is that it ain't right and the usual culprit is a badly set-up unit. For example, the offset function on EVC's can easily affect the boost level it shows. Indeed, there is a section in the manual entitled 'calibration'.... No idea on the Blitz units. Cheers, Nathan TDI PLC

Yeah, I know what you mean Chris. Not banging on about HKS again but it's things like this that make the difference. Their EGT probes are designed specifically for the job, with a nice short probe, and a spring coil covering the wire to prevent heat and crimp damage. The SPA probes are horrible IMO. No doubt they work OK but I can't stand permanently-fitted stuff that just looks like it's been pulled from an industrial RS catalogue (like the Apexi solonoids). The wire connectors are big and bulky, the probes are far too long and the wiring setup is messy. You pays yer money.... Sorry matt, drifting a bit there. If I remember I'll take a digipic of the next EGT installation we do. Cheers, Nathan TDI PLC

Errrm.... take it somewhere who can set up boost controllers...? Cheers, Nathan TDI PLC

IMO the reading from an independant gauge will always be more reliable than a boost controller. Boost controllers rely on them being set up and calibrated properly to show an accurate reading. Most aren't. Many people just fiddle with them until they hold about the right amount of boost (say 1.4 in your case) and dismiss what boost the controller is actually saying, which is wrong. The peak boost might be OK, but the response and spool up can be considerably affected, negating the use of one in the first place. In fact, a badly set-up controller is no better than a bleed valve... Regards, Nathan TDI PLC

Hmm....thats why I said to make sure. The only reason I suggested he check it out was because I couldn't believe SPA (for example) would make a thermocouple that was so bloody long in the first place if you couldn't alter it's length. I take on board that it may use an olive so you can stick as much into the port as you want but it seems crazy to leave such a huge amount poking out from the engine. Sounds like an accident waiting to happen if you ask me, hence the suggestion that he at least check it out. Regards, Nathan TDI PLC

Matt, Are you sure that you can't cut the length of the probe down or fix it fitted length? 2 inches is well long. The HKS one is only about 2cm or so. The probe on the SPA gauges is huge; about 6" long, and you just cut it to size. Don't take my word for it, but check it out. Might save you a lot of agg. Cheers, Nathan TDI PLC

Terry, As I usually say to most; whatever works for you. Like I said, I run the coldest plug I can get away with. No point tempting fate IMO. With HKS plugs, they seem to spark consistently and well enough to run 8 or 9 grade where most plugs would struggle. For example, I used to run 'regular' grade 9 NGK's in my nitrous ZXR750 and the cold running was diabolical compared to the grade 7 it ran as standard. Had no choice though. I take on board that you have had no problems with your grade 7's; exactly what make/type do you use? The BKR's? It may just be that most of the plug problems we have come accross have been simply because the plugs are of a poor design/make/type rather than grade, but 8 is always what we have used on most soops with zero problems, so we'll stick with it. Like I said you can't do any harm by going as cold as you can with plugs, so I err on the side of caution. The IK24's: can you get them in grade 8 and 9? Cheers, Nathan TDI PLC

Hi Terry, Just that they are simply not cold enough IMO. I always run the coldest plug I can that doesn't give missfiring or cold starting problems. We've fitted S40i's (equiv Grade 8) for years on BPU soops and their performance record is impeccable. I really can't emphasise how pleased we are with the HKS plugs. I'm honestly not plugging a brand here; if there was another plug that worked as well then I would reccomend that. I have seen just about all the different types of plugs used on Supras and many of them give high boost missfire problems. Some don't, but the HKS Superfires are a known quantity, and so if a Soop comes in with a misfire the plugs are the first area we look at. OK, it's a 100 quid gamble but it's not often that the problem stays.. I'm also aware that they are plenty of cars out there not running HKS plugs that seem fine. Thats OK, but it simply the fact that the HKS plugs are good for us as a commercial enterprise as we can rely on them 100%. I used to run S45i's (Grade 9) in my car and only then did I have some mild problems with cold running for the first few minutes in extreme weather. Very rare though, and certainly preferable to worrying about whether a lesser/warmer plug was going to fry on full boost at 180mph.. Cheers, Nathan TDI PLC

Yes, I think you've got the idea..... So, I was about right then. No chance of you creeping around a corner with that thing.... Would love to have had a go on that Beretta 92SB! Cheers, Nathan TDI PLC

Personally I wouldn't use BKR7E. Then again, I wouldn't be running a grade 7 plug period. You need to get a proper boost gauge in there to see how it compares to the boost controller reading. DO NOT take the BC's reading as gospel. I don't think it's fuel cut if you're not getting the triangle flashing up. Fuel cut is invoked at the same time as the triangle. Regards, Nathan TDI PLC

Well, if you are going to use a bar then just jam it against the chassis (be careful of paint damage like I said) and use the starter's torque to indo it. Also- stand clear. You really don't want to catch your finger between the bar and the chassis. As for doing it back up, stick it in 6th and have someone put the footbrake and handbrake on. That should be enough. Hang on the bar if you have to until you reach the well-known torque figure of 'FT'. I doubt if you'll find a torque wrench in Halfords that will do the job... Why have I got this comical vision of a handgun with a 24" barrel... I know what you mean about the BB diameter problem. I don't know if you have tried but the lead BB's fit perfect. The steel shot I use (Copperhead) fall through the barrel like you say but in fact I find the steel shot more accurate! Probably the weight difference. Would love to have a barrel to suit the steel BB's though- I didn't know it was possible to change it. Please, let me know if you go ahead. John Woo indeed- don't forget that for tru gangsta stylee you have to have both your arms outstretched, crossed over each other, with the gun butts horizontal.. Absolutely useless way of firing a gun with any accuracy of course but the movie watchers love it Cheers, Nathan TDI PLC edited to make some sense of this bloo$y VB script thingy..

Ooops..! Sorry Al- missed your Q ; yes, 'normal' thread ie right hand. Ian: Are you doing this engine out of the car? I sort of get the impression you are. If you are using a long bar, how are you going to lock the engine? BTW, like the firearm description I've only ever been into airguns personally. Odd because my Dad is into shotguns and my brother into rifles! Totally converted to CO2 now- fantastic. Zero recoil and quick-fire action. I usually use a Walther CP88 Competition 8 shot semi-auto with pressure pad laser and Simmons scope. Just bought a Walther PPK 15 shot semi auto gas blow-back though- awesome fun! Cheers, Nathan TDI PLC

Indeed. It's criminal that the full facts weren't given to you at the time. Like you say, adding the cost of the crank pully isn't really an issue... Nathan TDI PLC

Hi Rob, 99.9pc come undone with an air impact wrench. I've no idea how 'stong' the ones are that the lads downstairs use but they sure look meatier than most I have seen in say Quik-Fit or summat. To say they give a kick when using them is an understatement. Colt 45 springs to mind. As for getting them undone with blowtorches, well, sometimes needs must. If you gotta change your timing belt and all other methods have failed, what are you going to do? Sure, you risk crankseal and pully damper damage but then again snapped timing belt..... I think we've had to do it once or twice from memory, and obviously the customer gets informed of the situation. Thankfully, neither car suffered any after-problems, but then you don't need to heat them up so much that they glow red anyway. It's simply an option when all else fails, and doesn't always result in a problem if done carefully. Those looking to undo the bolt and don't have the tools CAN try the old starter motor trick but a: you won't always get them undone this way and b: as a commercial enterprise we don't think it's ideal to let the customer see and hear an almighty 'thunk' when the extension arm clouts the underside of their motor cos you sure as hell don't want to try holding it... Cheers, Nathan TDI PLC

This isn't very wise (on WM's part) and only goes to suggest that they either aren't too switched on business-wise or are simply gambling that the card numbers they get are kosher. Taking a card number via phone (debit, credit or otherwise) and then charging the amount in full (when it's not a mail order)leaves you wide open to fraud. Not saying that anyone here is worried about whether WM has any fraudulant card problems but it's all one big circle and if companies take card numbers over the phone on these terms it simply fuels the need for bent cards in the first place so everyone loses out. The correct procedure is to take a deposit amount, say 10pc of the total value. That way, when the customer comes down to settle up you have a signature for most of the amount charged. So far, I've seen no evidence that the card number you gave them was in fact yours, and they have no signature from you to say otherwise... ....shame you didn't happen to have someone elses card around when you paid for them if you get my drift.... Regards, Nathan TDI PLC