Andy-No-Knee

The Supra is crap thogh, the Mitzi Evo kicks it's butt.

Bijal, you interested in my seat?

I have an OMP seat here that I want to sell, in VERY good condition, looking to get it out of my front room, so will happily take offers.... PM me your email for piks.

As I said, in driving lessons you are taught to pass a test, not the best way to drive....

One of my many jobs (I'm a fireman) is I am also a motorcycle riding instructor and a driving instructor. When I learnt to drive ('86) I was taught to drive and use the gears to slow you down as this would reduce the effort the brakes had to do (first introduced when cars had drum brakes and they didnt stop too well) and it meant that the car would always be in the correct gear for the speed. Now days you are taught to pass a test, not how to drive correctly (so many different styles, driving in snow, on motorways, in the wet etc) and as technology has come forward so much they 'frown' on you for engine braking. As the brakes no longer need the help and they say it is better for the ecology as you use less fuel. (Never saw that one myself, it isnt like your reving the engine using the accelorator) They also want us to teach you in such a way that it bad for the long term health of the car. Riding the cluch for example. It doesnt cost the driving school or the DSA anything but you will wear out the cluch quicker and therefor cost you more.... and the added extra use of the brake pads for continual slowing down etc.

I know mate, and your pictures have had me drooling like the local village idiot, alas the missus has been knocking sence into my head each time I say.... 'Hmmm, I can afford these wheels now'!

Apart from problems asociated with side wall flexing and that causing a reduction in tyre surface on road surface the other thing to be aware of is the weight of the wheel and the gyrosopic effects. 17's by their nature are lighter than 19's as there is less metal. Think of the car's flywheel, a big heavy one takes time and alot of power to start spinning and then time and alot of force to slow down. Turn that into a wheel, and I found when I was running 19's that my 0-60 was slightly slower and the 60-0 braking times were slower too. And due to the added weight on the wheels on the suspention the car was not handeling as well as it could or should. Because when spinning a gyroscope that is heavy takes effort to move the axel it is mounted on, where as a light on requires less effort. (This effect is why mortorcycle wheels have also become very light, as the heavy wheels affected the handeling and 'turn in time') So this will affect your ability to throw the car around and into and out of corners. If I can find a set of 19's that weigh next to nothing then I would go for them, but until then I am sticking with my 17's for winter and track and looking to get a set of Weds 18's as they are LIGHT! I had a set of chrome Mania Pasific's and they looked the nuts, but one wheel weighed almost the same as 2 17's. Not good.

No answers yet, so I'll put in my tuppeny. The F-Con V is an old model, and yes it has a built in FCD BUT if it came on the car from Japan then no one in this country can re-map them as they use a different software to the HKS Europe ones. If it was bought and fitted over here then it may be software locked meaning that you have to (A) return it to the original tuners to fix or (B) take it to an HKS dealer to wipe and then remap. That last part will cost abit! £80ph and most of the day! Only autherised HKS dealers have the software to map them, and they charge ALOT! As I said the V unit is old, they are now and for the last few years have been called the SV and Pro, so it may be better for you cost wise to get a replacement where you will not be tied into HKS tuner prices. A good (less expensive) replacment is an Emanage Ultimate (which is also alot more powerful and has more options than the old V). If you have a manual car then Apexi Power Commander is also a good replacment that doesnt cost an arm and a leg. Hope this helps.

The braded hose, is that the internal size? Is it £40 for all of it, or for just one length? If it is for all of it, I will have it! Please PM me your payment details.

Nice looking job! I did the same on my Soarer with a GT3037s. Where did you get the braded hose for the wastegate actuators from? As all I have done with mine is wrap the silicon pipe in the thermo wrap silver covering, not 100% this will work when pushed. I also used the old SMIC location as the cold air feed right into the front of the air filter. Works a treat.

OMG! The Reg, that is very scary - J801COO, is only 1 number away from mine, which is also a Soarer!

If it came with the F-Con fitted in Japan, then it will only run on the Jap software and cannot be remapped in the UK. TDI, and Abbey also do HKS F-Con's. And the £1000 mapping quote sounds like it was for the gold unit, the Pro V

As someone said in another thread.... This is a forum for blokes not little girls hiding behind Asda carrier bags!!!! We are all adults here... go for it.......

War.... What War??? Where am I? Who are you??? Are you going to give me lots of money???

Naaaah. He wasnt a sniper, Chris Ryan was.

Carlos Norman Hathcock II was the highest scoring sniper with the US Marines in Vietnam. When I did my sniper course there were some US instructors on it who used him as an example, and I was interested in him so I bought a book on him. I joined another forum and used his name as the log in name and as I have a memory like a gold fish with altzhimers I kept it here. Real name is Andy.

Is it powerful enough to play games on? Like Doom3/Quake 4?? Or am I really on drugs asking that?

Are they only 8J, or are the rears wider?

Cheers Boyz....... It has been a good one! Hic!

Cheers, Its looking that way so far.................

I have a single kit using a HKS waste gate, 50mm I think, and I am 99% sure there are problems with it. The boost controller is set to ope at 1.3 bar, and when driving the waste gate starts to open on the spring pressure of .9bar, and then at 1.3 opens fully. Until it opens it is pulling like George Cluny in a Nurses home, and then when the spring goes it goes down to about half the effect that it was and then at 1.3 there is no more. So I think that either a there is a leak in the pipework from the controller to the waste gate b the join at the waste gate is leaking c the waste gate is fekked d (only a slight poss) the boost controller is set up wrong. The controller is an Apexi AVCR Picture of the waste gate attached. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to test the above said bits without having to strip them off? Or suggestions on what to do otherwise I will have to strip it all down and still wont know what I am looking for.

Oh dear!!! As far as I know there is no oil in it per say. It MAY be oil from the turbos pushing into the feed pipes. I would take off the pipes and using a pipe cleaner push it into them to check. If it comes out clean then it is from the box, if it comes back oily.............

Do you know what model they are? And do they come with the braket so they fit a Supra?

A friend of mine has a Skyline in Japan, and one here. His tuner in Japan told him to ONLY take it to Abbey, as they as seen as being the best skyline tuner in the UK... in Japan.... er.... if you get what I mean.

Are they folding recliners?