Andy-No-Knee
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Everything posted by Andy-No-Knee
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Or try this.... edit - for some reason the link will not work try item number ...8071083385 £298.49 plus shipping. I have one of these, they are great and ok it is all of 5mm shorter than the Hybrid one. I have bought alot of stuff from this company and they deliver what they say they will. But saying that, if Nic can get it even cheaper then go with him, but I have always been dubious about Hybrid Intercoolers.
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On all parts of the M25 where there are road works. Its their new 'incentive' to slow down as Gatso's are a 10 second wonder....
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They measure the time taken for you to travel the entire length of the road works and if the average adds up to more than 40... Wammo! NIP in the post, 3 points on the licence and good old Gordon Brown is £60 better off. Good luck.
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OOhhhH!!! Bitchy from the pair of you!!! Chris, I have HID's, and forgot it was called a Ballast, And Joe...... (insert James Cagney voice) Ahhhh Wise Guy huh! Why I orta........
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Got mine!!! Cheers mate... leaving feed back as requested!
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You know that thread about lieing to the missus to mod the car, weeeell....... :innocent: :eyebrows: I now have a DLi! She thinks its is a new headlamp bulb powerpack that broke 'last night' dear.... Cheers CJ!
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The best person to talk to is Chris Wilson, but personally, I wouldnt unless it was set up by someone who knew what they were doing. Having a wider (less) offset cuases the car to handle worse, but if set up on a 4 wheel alignmet rig can get rid of the detrimental affects. When you move from the OEM settings it really is a case of try it and see unless you get someone like Chris to set it up. The trackday Soarer I look after for a friend was set up in Japan, and has 40mm spacers on it, it looks mental, but is without a doubt the best handling car I have driven. The Teins help as well.
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It wont be that easy. The offset is part of the make up of the wheel. An easy way to look at it is this. When you stand at the rear of the car (a normal Sup, on bogo 17's) the wheels are dressed in a bit from the edges of the arches. That is because the offset is correct. Yours will be sticking out, and worst case is where they stick out past the wheel arch and look like some kind of reject from a days 'proffesional' tuning at a Ripspeed/Halfords branch. Some times spacers have to be fitted to the wheels to move the inside of the wheel away from the calipers, that removes from the offset, eg a wheel with 40 offset and 15mm spacers will actually be a wheel with a 25 offset. You need a new set of wheels, unless for some reason they have fitted spacers. But to fit spacers they should have extended the wheel nuts and have a sholder lip on them for the wheel to locate onto. You need to find out what the offset is, and I would guess at about 20-25 from your description and the need to roll the arches.
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The offset is the amount of the wheel centre sits from the centre of the hub. It should be +50 on a Supra, but most after market wheels bring it down to +35, yours may be even lower if they are not Supra secific, possibly 20. The offset also hugely affects handleing and tramlineing, or following the contours and seams of the road.
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Anyone doing Oulton this Friday with EasyTrack?
Andy-No-Knee replied to Chris Wilson's topic in Supra Chat
There are lots of places, do a google, here is one I found... http://www.competition-car-insurance.co.uk/productsa.htm -
Anyone doing Oulton this Friday with EasyTrack?
Andy-No-Knee replied to Chris Wilson's topic in Supra Chat
I have only done them on a bike, how much is the cost of the day (not inc fuel etc, just the booking), how long are the sessions, and are they in 3 groups, track virgins, intermeidiats and liars? -
Does it come with the correct loom to instal it (and idiot proof instructions)?
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Did a Supra Roll over at the Ace Cafe during yesterdays meet?
Andy-No-Knee replied to supRo's topic in Supra Chat
Total B.S. It was a bike doing stoppies, and whoppsie! Over it went. The old bill turned up in a six pack and went every where together... and then the paramedics turned up and strolled around. Then a cossie turned up and turned the air blue and showed all the 'drifters' how to really do it! -
Ahhh! Cheers! Off to the Ace, catch ya all later!
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Its an AVCR, and I'm not 100% sure, which is why I'm hunting down all the other psoibilties before I spend out getting a new one. Also, there is the question of the centre bolt, which I seem to recal someone saying affected how the power was delivered, eg the severity of the w/g opening???? Again, not 100% on it so I'm askin....
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or, if they are anything like mine were... grip in the wet!
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Well it is suposed to stay closed until the boost presure reaches the pre set level in the boost controller and then it opens to allow the extra to blead off, but it isnt even doing that! It pulls like a train up to .89 bar then when it opens it slows right down but continues to rise to 1.4bar. Had a chat with Terry and going to try what he suggested......
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Yep, all I needed was a drill, with a large masonary bit about 15mm for the dead bolt to go into, and a smaller drill for the bolt holes in the garage door. They supply headless bolts. Really easy peasy lemon squeasy!
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Bad luck mate, as you say, glad it wanst the Sup, cos I remember seeing it that time and it looked very nice! The local chav druggies try to do that with my garage too, so I ended up fitting lockes that bolt down into the concret floor. They were only about £30 for a pair from a good locksmiths. Took 3 hours to fit mind!
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I think it has the .8 spring in, but I want it to stay shut until I want it opend, which is how the AVCR was programmed to do it, but it just wont hold it closed. I was kinda hoping to keep costs down and do it myself, as I am but a poor fireman and cant afford to eat!
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I posted up some time ago that I was having some 'issues' with my HKS 50mm waste gate. They are..... It will not hold boost over .85bar, but will open fully when the boost controller tells it to at 1.4bar. So I have tried various things, re-routed the actuator pipework and renewed it - Fine Put jubillie clamps in the ends of the pipework - fine all to no avail. So what I want to do next is replace the brass screw in nipples that connect the pipes to the waste gate, in case this is not a seal and it is leaking from there. The problem is, where from? Any suggestions? Any traders have some I can by?? (Due to the location of the w/g I need either 1 elbow joint that I can tighten up the thread and still control the location on the angle or 2 x stright thread-nipple conectors.) Also, I remember reading on here somewhere where people were talking about the large centre bolt, and that it is suposed to do something inside the w/g. Can some knowegdeable person please remind me what thay was, as I think the large centre bolt is missing and I need to know if I need to replace it. Ta very muchly!
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I think they are the mutts nuts! They may wear out a little faster, but for grip in the wet and dry, unparrallelled. (spellink)
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Provisionally SOLD
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And 2-3 Soarer's, 1 with a single conversion, 1 with mild tuning and one standard but immaculate! See you there Lui, I'm planning on getting there around 18.30
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1991 Toyota Soarer Twin Turbo HKS Single turbo conversion - Garret 30/37S. Auto
Images added to a gallery album owned by Andy-No-Knee in Supra Garage
Engine Specifications: 1JZ-GTE 6Cyl in-line, 2476cc, DOHC, 24Valve, Fuel Injected, Twin Turbo (Big single fitted) Autobox DENSO IK27 plugs GReddy/Trust engine oil cooler and filter relocation kit Turbocharger & Induction: HKS (Garrett) GT3037s single turbo kit. HKS pod filter Custom Ram Air Cold Feed HKS 100mm Alloy Intake pipe HKS 60mm Alloy Outlet pipe GReddy/Trust VSL type Front Mount Intercooler HKS SSQV Blow off valve Ram Air Induction pipe from old SMIC location Boost Logic Turbo Blanket Lots of Thermowrap! Fuel, Tuning & ECU: Walbro Fuel Pump SARD 650cc Fuel Injectors GReddy Emanage Programmable Fuel Controller Apexi AVCR Boost Controller Exhaust: HKS Stainless Steel Single Manifold HKS 50mm External Wastegate HKS 3 Inch Downpipe HKS SuperDragger 3 Inch Pipe HKS 3 Inch De Cat Optional (not bothered fitting) HKS Sports Cat Drivetrain: MV Autos 1.5 Shift kit 10 mm shift shims Transmission Oil Cooler A02B Factory LSD Suspension, Wheels, Tires & Brakes: Front Supra TT 4 pots/Rotors (UK Spec) Rear Supra TT 2 pots/Rotors (UK Spec) Porterfield Fast Road pads front and rear Stainless Steel brake lines 17" MKIV Supra wheels Front and rear Strut Bar (Eibach Lowering Springs) (TEMS Suspention) TEIN Coilover Flex Race Suspention (to be fitted) Interior & ICE: Levoc Shifter Levoc Hand Brake Protector MOMO Race Steering Wheel, Horn Button Mounted Cruse Control Recaro Racing Seat and 4 Point Harness Import Scene Wood Dash Kenwood 10 Play CD Changer AEM Air Fuel Ratio Gauge EGT Gauge Oil Pressure Gauge Oil Temp Gauge Factory Lexus Fit Nakajumi system Exterior: Dark Tinted Rear Windows LiquidArt 'Evil' Toyota Badge HID Headlight Kit Dip Beam PIAA Main Beam Bulbs Performance: Thor dyno sheet 375RWHP at 1.2 bar 302.4 lbs torque -
