carl0s

Looks like a cheap Coolermaster thing that some kids put in their computer

£6k if you're lucky I'd say.

You definately tried the other hole? Mine was a Greddy PEII (Power Extreme 2) so the bracketry is obviously different between this and your Evo's, but with the bracket on mine there were two holes, one of which was too small by a little bit

OK, I just searched again. Red means Oil Pressure. I had this light up once whilst cruising at 60mph on the motorway about 6 months ago. The car lost power and the warning triangle came on, for about 2 seconds, then everything was fine, and has been ever since. Yellow means oil level.. No worries there then, my car has done close to 100,000 miles and is probably burning oil through leaky stem seals. So I'll just top up a bit now. How right am I?

OK, I don't care that I look fookin stupid. My owners manual is upstairs somewhere. What's what.. Yellow oil light just came on, did the same this morning. Can't take an oil reading now as the engine has just been ticking over. I've been guessing that red oil light means NO OIL, and yellow means Oil Temperature. How wrong am I?

LOL I was thinking that, but no.. I remember the Woolston bit. Thanks very much Jake, you're the man

OK i'm leaving for the post office now with some other parcels.. in the unlikely event someone useful sees this in the next 10 mins.. ring me [censored] cheers

Anyone got a phone number for JohnK ? After bloody ages I've finally finished fixing his laptop and I'd like to get it posted in the next 10 minutes so he has the bank holiday to play with it. it'd be a shame now for it to not get posted until Tuesday. thanks.

me too.. well, actually, I pulled it down into second, BUT, I was pressing on fairly hard, round a gradual bend. Wrote off the LHS of my car remember! All I'm saying is that it doesn't 'just happen' by itself. You've got to be pressing down fairly substantially and I think it's one of the things you learn about the car - don't be trying to accelerate fast on gradual bends unless you're prepared for it.

Toyota's Celica 190 engine makes 189bhp out of 1.8ltr - 105BHP/L- that's not bad, but.. Honda's S2000 motor makes 237bhp out of 2ltr, so that'd be 118.5BHP/L .. wow.

and RMC means right-mouse-click. (I've never seen that acronym before.. just thought I'd help out! )

Which is also good for backing up ones data too in the event you decide to reformat the boot partition again. Many laptops have been shipping like this for a while, because they come with 'recovery' disks which just go over the whole partition anyway. The only addition I'd make is that you don't need to format these other partitions before you delete them.

It's an NA auto, but no cats! The thing is, there's basically no muffler of any kind on there. It's just one long straight 3" open pipe. The back box has some kind of shit around it, but that doens't do anything until you put the baffle in anyway.

Well, Animal got his exhaust, and.. it's devastatingly loud What did I say...

Not managed to find anybody to farm them off on yet then mate? I paid £70 to someone on here for those!!

from the great wikipedia.. The most-common definition of horsepower for engines is the one originally proposed by James Watt in 1782. Under this system, one horsepower is defined as: 1 hp = 33,000 ft·lbf·min−1 = exactly 745.69987158227022 W Metric horsepower, as a rule, is defined as 735.49875 W, or roughly 98.6% of mechanical horsepower. This was a minor issue in the days when measurement systems varied widely and engines produced less power, but has become a major sticking point today. Exotic cars from Europe like the McLaren F1 and Bugatti Veyron are often quoted using the wrong definition, and their power output is sometimes even converted twice due to confusion over whether the original "horsepower" number was metric or mechanical.

A340 / A340E / A343E the numbers don't seem to mean much. The box is basically called the A340E regardless of the fact that there are differences depending on what vehicle it's in.

yep!

It's nice to maintain a bit of exclusivity

I gotta agree there. It never fuckin changes when you don't expect it. You've got to push down to make it change, and even then you have time to lift off just before the power comes in. When it's raining, the whole world is a skidpan. I love nothing more than bald tyres in the wet. I have chilled out a bit lately, but when I had 19s on the car, and they were bald, I loved doing silly oversteer out of bends.

A basic VVTi system only varies the cam timing. This is what you're getting on the 2JZ VVTi. More advanced systems are able to vary cam timing, valve duration, and lift. This is VTEC or Toyotas VVTL-i (Variable Valve Timing and Lift (w/intelligence!)). Toyota/Yamaha's VVTL-i system on the current shape Celica, puts an extra 50bhp on top of the regular VVTi engines 140bhp. VTEC as we know gives 240bhp out of 2 litres. I'd expect that the BMW VANOS system probably has more in common with these variable valve systems than the older more basic cam-timing only ones.

Also, the Thor FCD doesn't actually remove fuel-cut, but instead raises it to whereever you want.

I could be completely wrong of course. There are differences in the Dometic and Export Supras. Export uses MAP for fuel cut and for putting the fuel pump into 12v (full) mode only, so you can actually just disconnect the MAP, but you might then not be able to supply enough fuel to the engine. Domestic (jap spec) cars use the MAF. or it could be the other way around Read here http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/ffcd/freefcd.htm

Sounds like it might work, but the problem I can see is that this device is basically scaling the boost pressure signal down completely, so your ECU is being given a misreading of boost all through the range. Someone more knowledgeable will hopefully come along and explain how this might screw up your cars fuelling. I suspect that as the ECU is being misinformed on the amount of boost, it would not supply enough fuel, thus running your engine lean, which is definately not a good thing. The Thor box works a bit smarter than that.. it allows the signal to pass un-modified, right up until just below the point of fuel cut, then it holds the signal right there.. by which time your injectors are running at 100% duty cycle anyway so concerns of running lean are erm.. invalid. I'd hate to buy a Supra of someone who has skimped on the £70 for a proper FCD and used a 15p pot instead..

I'd be more than happy with a Lotus badge. My concern would be whether they'd make it reliable. If the engine was to come from BMW, who'd supply the gearbox? Drivetrain.. clutch.. No problem with the badge though - I have a lot of respect for Lotus