Gareth Davies

Justin, what type are your fast road pads? I really need a new set after 'cooking' mine at bentwaters. Matt, UK Spec brakes are rare as f*&k (since they're a very worthwhile J-spec upgrade). Seems the only place to get them is if someones 'upgraded' to either the brembos or AP's. I believe Justin could get them for a 'reasonable' price from Toyota new. Or distract one of the UK-Spec owners at a meet and 'borrow' theirs Martins/Emmas as a preferance as they're painted really well :biggrin: But if you get Doughies check the pads As Alex said, J-spec brakes really are the weakest link on the track. If you change the system, get the best brake fluid you can find too. If you're looking for cheap pads i'm pretty sure you can get EBC green stuff for them.

That Supraforums thread looks a bit, err questionable. Considering the competition want £5k plus for a similar setup how exactly can someone do it for When I was looking at the Hollinger box a while back it was £20k+ for the box with none of the supporting components and rebuilds every 4500. But changing gear perfectly without having to use the clutch sounds like a dam fine box to me. Tiny bit rich for my blood though Now i'm no great fan of the auto, but it's not that much of a problem. But a Quaife box for £6k sounds a bargin, guess it's about the same for the install though. To me it seems a shame not to do a gearbox conversion on an Aero, since it makes it ultra exclusive.

Ha ha, I doubt anyone actually thought (believed?) an add on controller would truly replace a fully mappable ECU. So about how much (cost / time) would a proper engine out, dyno tune, engine in cost for a supra? For those not technically minded enough to already know So anyone going to arrange a group buy for these things?

About how much would you expect a system to cost (excluding installation?), since the veilside one is expensive, but not a bad price if you were replacing the gearbox anyway. Would you be looking to increase the ratios to give a better top speed (240 mph anyone?), or just a better launch? Trouble is they need rebuilds at stupid intervals. The sequential box in the Jun supra didn't even need a clutch the gearbox was that strong, needed rebuilding every 2500 miles though. Increases your running costs a little bit

Doughie, I've got the online manual thanks. It's just it seems fundamentally people are saying the boost controller doesn't do what I thought it did! Oh well, it does what is says on the tin for me so i'm happy. Maybe i'll dump the boost "controller" (paperweight) and fit a bleed valve like real men Guess I just need to work out if the car has cats or not!. Heres hoping it does (so I can take them out and get more Puwah! Muhahaha). *Slap* Sorry got a bit carried away there...

Hmm JIC stated the cats had been removed... not that that proves anything. It definatly would explain the MOT passable emissions when we rolling roaded it. What does confuse me though is that if the controller is higher, the boost goes higher simple as that. I've had it at 60 and I backed off as it was going past 1.3 bar. So inversly having it set lower does lower the maximum boost, however all my settings are wrong at the moment as I believe the cold air is allowing it to boost faster/higher so the controller doesn't catch it. I'm not saying this works to extremes, since doesn't Justin have serious over boost problems with an AVC controller? I really do need to find an idiots guide to car modding (Max power is to advanced for me ) that explains what a boost controller does, since I was stupid enough to think that it controlled boost :biggrin:

Ok guys, you've got me confused. If a boost controller can't reduce boost, what the hell does it do?? I only have a typical blitz DSBC, and changing the values changes the peak boost, simple as that. My J-Spec has a de-cat and a hiper exhaust and with the boost controller set right it can be varied from 1.0 to 1.2 bar (well thats what I set it to, 1.2 is at 45%). God knows where it would boost to without it. Plus when you hit your limit it reduces the value by X percent to potentially reduce the spike.

Mine seems to have 1 electric fan and the stock system (the radiator is a larger alloy one). The only thing I find is that when it's on it drains the battery mighty fast we're talking a

Thanks for all the info people, it'll be nice to have a decent setup to load on when I get round to fitting mine (after i've checked the ECU wiring with mines). I think it would be a good idea to host some of this information in the faq, or at least have the file somewhere on mkivsupra.net so people can download it when they need it. Wonder how many people are trundling around on the wrong setup?

Ian C is Norwich based, so a fair way out Hope things are ok though, i'm sure things can sound a lot worse than they are. Surely that car had had some serious internal work done already? Well as you said, good excuse to upgrade What they of gearbox did it have? Auto or Manual?

Err aren't style 275's side skirts the upgraded toyota ones? My cars have both had / got aftermarket side skirts (member 25), the aero had bomex side skirts and the TT has veilside ones. I didn't fit either if that whats you're getting at. I can't recall seeing any others at the meets (i.e. only stock, and veilside).

Yeah wtf do they only manage fuel up to 1.1 kg/cm? Is it limited by the stock 02 sensor etc. If I was replacing an ECU that would be most of the point! Oh well guess it's useful to know. Do you know if it's a plug and play ecu (i.e. straight swap) or does it all need rewiring? Something I really should try and find out before I attach the RLTC to it.

Fair play, i'm sure with the collect power of the group sunday we should be able to crack it.

Gordon, The spoiler should work fine after a proper conversion, this however is linked to many a long conversation on delimiting (as you suspected). If you want the specifics then try one of the other threads, but I believe in summary if your spoiler doesn't work properly now the speed coversion isn't right (or it's broken). Do you know if you have a SLD (Speed Limit Defender), or a FCD (Fuel Cut Defender) installed? Do any of the other speed related devices not work? Do you know how the speedo is converted? What year and type is your car (TT or NA before any smartarse says supra)? Have I asked enough questions Should get us started...

I believe the one you are refering to is an oil can over a wavy line, means your oils low. So I guess not having it on is a good thing Check your oil, if thats ok it's probably the bulb. No doubt thats a 20k replacement part from toyota (but get the glass not plastic ones)

Hmm, the only fault I know of that causes the warning light to be on with no obvious other lights is the active spoiler. Does it come down properly if you press the down button? When you say you don't have the EFI2 fuse is your layout different to mine (as in the picture) or is there no fuse there? If there's no fuse then i'd get one sharpish as I believe thats the one that allows the ECU to hold it's error codes. You don't have to go to toyota to get the diagnostic code, there's a technique to get the error codes flashed on the O/D off bulb (Err I presume a manual has this as well then?). I'm sorry I don't recall the exactly procedure but it is around somewhere else on the bbs and I believe i've seen it on MKIV.com. Again I don't really know how the speed limiter works (since my NA was divided I never hit it) like the majority of the others on this BBS.

Is it just the triangle that comes on or are any of the other lights on? Does your car have an active spoiler (yes they do exist on NA's too), does the power steering seem to be different? Since all these are speed related might help track it down. I don't know why this has become apparent once the ECU has been reset. I think the safest bet would be to find out what the error code is it's reporting. You mentioned in the other thread the 30 was upside down, strangely these were like this on my NA and are on the TT. But you should have a EFI2 fuse which sits next to the EFI1. Don't exactly know what it does but i think you're supposed to do both. Have a look here for a piccy. Bit big to put on the thread, or go look for the tiny picture martin posted last time.

As Martin said, a lot of people try and maintain a clean interior so you should look for somewhat standard to put it and design it round that. I believe the most common places for such a device would be in with the stereo. Also at some other point if you're going to add some other devices then having them so they link up a bit like the Blitz SBSC or the avc-r units, so you can have the two 1/2 din units look like a tidy 1 din unit etc. Personally I think if i'd mount one it would be in the roof lining as long as it's not too deep so a 2x 1y 1/2z ish style would be better, that way it could be mounted either flush or facing. I think the LCD style might be better than the knight rider LED rows

There are a couple of europeans on the mail list, you could ask there (Flavio's the one with the stunning red LHD one right?) Try the various internet sites (yahoo has a load of european car sites) or try the auto trader equivilents (not that I know what italy's is) Look on the bright side, you have access to the holy grail of supras, the manual targa top

My new supra has gold / silver wheels (over UK-spec brakes). I believe they're the volk racing designs (i've seen them on www.mvpmotorsport.com but don't know a UK site). The only reason I mention it is they pretty dam cheap compared to the other brands ($2500 for a set) and in my mind look pretty good. But hey, the Z1's look pretty fantastic. I just updated my membership info (member 25), the side view has a reasonable view of the wheels. (Edited by Gareth Davies at 11:07 pm on Nov. 4, 2001)

Have you never seen this before? When the warning triangle came on did any of the other lights come on? I believe a functioning speed limiter doesn't trigger any warning lights, just a loss of power. Also I don't believe the large warning triangle is supposed to flash. I definatly did not see anything like this in my NA, which had managed signifigantly more than that (we're talking km officer...). However I did see a similar problem in my TT when the speed signal was duffed. AH's speedo does all kind of fruity stuff over a certain threshold, I don't recall were you got your car from (if you've mentioned it before). But as you assume it, does sound like a duff speed conversion / speed limit defencer (SLD). If this is the case though there isn't an 'easy' fix (see Paul Booth's epic thread on speed coversion elsewhere on the board). I believe Pete Betts does a good unit ( http://www.trlperformance.com ) for about £80 the harder bit is sorting out the old conversion properly. Maybe it's worth opening another thread as many of the more knowledgable people on this subject have very little time and will probably not recheck a thread on petrol types.

Dean, got it sorted at NICE in norwich. Well they sorted out the turbo timer, relocated the siren and found my mysterious problem... which was... The stupid head up display unit. Apparently the control box for said device was hidden behind the dashboard and had been switched off accidently. Since it was wirely serially into the speed / rpm signal it was thus preventing it reaching all the other devices. Doh. Oh well i'm so relieved they fixed it, I thought that one might have been a real nasty one. Dyno was ok this morning, 403 RWD BHP (well the first run said 557, but we'll not count that) at 1.2 bar exactly. Not bad for a auto. I could only do the run in 3rd (as you can't lock 4th), so maybe thats a bit down, but hell i'm not complaining So all in all a good day, minced a impreza on the way home too (Alex - Chris's). I now have than inane supra induced grin back :biggrin: Thanks for the help guys, greatly appreciated.

Alex, yeah I tried the ECU thing (infact I tried it on the Sunday morning before bentwaters). My money is with Speedo / RPM (as I think that's why the HUD kicks the bucket). It all just smells that way. The confusing element is why has it started happening (again smart money goes on the alarm / install), and why it was effectively intermittent. The fuel con still has the information though (as it's staged to the RPM). I fear it's going to be a real f**ker to find, if it's a case of the installer knocking X, or causing a fault in the system I’d be surprised if it wouldn't take more than a few days to track it down. I don't think it's directly related to the Speedo conversion as it was all perfectly fine before the alarm install. What really annoys me is the butchers did the converting their usual way and f'd it up while the ecu was fine the way it was (i'm 99% sure the Mines unit eliminates fuel cut and the speed restrictions). Oh well i've got a dyno run at 8:00am tommorrow (which no doubt will be a waste of time with these problems), and it's back at the alarm installers at 9:00. Fingers crossed it's something simple and they'll sort it out.

When I had my NA, putting super in it really did help, I don't think it's possiable to have too high a ron fuel (ok within reason) since we're all after the magical 100 ron. I believe a better way to reset the ECU is to pull the EFI fuses (1, 2?) for 30ish seconds. They're labeled in the fuse box in the engine bay. That way you don't have to worry about the alarm, radio etc. The point of this is so the ecu has to 're-learn' and thus picks up the better ron immediatly. There are side effects of this, i.e. floating idle etc. but it should have relearnt within about 15 minutes of varied driving. Otherwise it takes it about a tank (and you don't need to play with the ECU). Trust me, some optimax and millers will do wonders for the humble NA.

Ok this is a good one, and something that is obviously way way out of my league trying to solve. I'll try and write down everything I think is relevant, but it might be something coincidental. Last Friday I had a Clifford 600 alarm fitted, they spent all day playing with it, but it seems to work (other than they put the siren in front of the induction kit, and you can't lock the car when the turbo timers on). Now on the Saturday we were playing around with Alex's car fitting his boost controller (after raising my car a massive 1 cm on the suspension). I lent my car to my brother, as he wanted to go and show his friends. About 15 mins later I get a call saying there are a load of lights on the dashboard and what should he do. Not sounding like anything’s (engine wise) is broken he brought it back. Now the problem is that the O/D light is blinking and the little head up display thing (very cool little device that reflects the RPM / Speed off the windscreen) is not working. Also the 'malfunction' light is on and of course the red triangle. Also the slip cont off light was flashing. We left it for a bit then tried it and it seemed to be ok. This problem then became intermittent after x minutes the O/D light would start blinking and the HUD would go out. Later the slip control off light flashes. It seems the malfunction and triangle come on if you go over 70ish mph when the O/D light is flashing. Strangely enough there was absolutely no problem with it when we were at Bentwaters (but it was intermittent on the way there). It's now degenerated to that the HUD doesn't come on at all and after 10ish seconds the O/D light starts blinking (even gap, continuous). I'd had absolutely no problems at all before the alarm was installed (but that could be coincidental). The car has all kinds of other devices in it and the wiring is unfortunately of the 'rats nest' variety, which no doubt will mean locating this problem will take ages. I'm just hoping all of this adds up to someone, or maybe if they can direct me to even an area to begin looking! The car has a mines ecu and it seems it has the standard JIC f'ed up speed conversion (trac con always activates in snow mode). Thanks in advance...