Milo500

Ohh right, fair enough

Ohh yea ofcourse hahah, completely forgot about the obvious, so I'm guessing in a few years time Also I have seen a couple of rhd over there, and there isn't as much of a price difference of what you would think...there is also a video of a guy on YouTube on the roads untraveled channel of a guy who bought a rhd mkiv and he says it didn't bother him about ut being rhd, but bought it because it was slightly cheaper than a us spec one... Is interesting to think how it will affect the market.

Hi, guys, I had a conversation with a buddy of mine who also has a mkiv, and he is thinking of selling his in the new year. We started discussing the fact that the mkiv's in the USA are at an extreme price difference compared to here in the UK. To which I ask, has anyone ever thought of exporting to the USA for the sale of their car? (I am aware that the driving side will be incorrect, so will reduce the price slightly), also registration and shipping will be a factor.... However, even with all of this incorporated, there would still be a great difference in what you could get for one over here to the USA. Have people thought of this allready and has been disproven? I can't be the only person that has had this as a thought. Please throw your opinions this way Cheers, Tom

I guessed that, but the thing is, for the price of a high stall converter (1k at whifbitz) a bee r or a wet 150 shot of nitrous would surely give a better result? Especially for the cost? Also I drive this car daily...and the turbo is a new Turbonetics TNX 45/64

I do have a standard torque converter, however my issue is ofcourse not having boost low down, so how will a high stall converter gain me more power lower down?

For the power I'm running there is no real need for me to be running any more than my greddy emanage...as all I wanted at the time was just fuel and ignition control... What's their bad reputation if you don't mind me asking?

Does no one on here have any experience with any of this?

Hi guys, I have built a 550bhp ish auto originally twin turbo, single mk4. The problem is, autos are notoriously slow to get off the line until on boost hits (which I noticed at santapod), and I'm trying to think of a way to solve this issue, if not just better it... Is a Bee R limiter in anyway worth it? As it cuts ignition not fuelling, does it work similar to a 2 step system? Can you set it at a certain linit? As holding on the brake and accelerator in an auto only let's you get to 3-4k before the wheels start spinning (and in a single it is ofcourse not on boost so is very sluggish off the line)...ideally I would like to leave the line slightly on boost, so any opinions fire this way Is using one damaging to the engine? (I know it will be to the turbo). Are there other options? (I know a small shot of nitrous below the boost of the turbo would work, but is alot of faff for just below 4k rpm on a launch). Ideally if someone has a link to an install guide or has done one before and could give any advice on how good it is etc I would be very pleased Cheers

I did yea, had a 20 mile journey before doing it. And cheers, will have a look tonight need to get it done before santa pod japshow this weekend...probs won't be happy with oil down the strip haha

Haha sorry hahaha, I have done the test, and nothing came out at any point through the rev range, hmmm... The oil level is fine and have only been the expected amount to lose from any car over time... Not really sure now haha, I need to check the underside of the car for atf now...the thing I don't know is where is the breather on the gearbox? Cheers

It could be the gearbox atf when it hit the windscreen of dave's car, but when you were stood behind it still, was it definately the same oil? Was it just condensation or definately red oil?

No it wasn't and the exhaust is brand new when I did the conversion, also I agree with you with the coolant haha, definately eouldn't make it to the end of the exhaust before burning off (and no I am nt using red coolant)

I'm not saying it is the box, but it define try comes out of the exhaust...so everyone getting aggro saying that if it is red then it has to be the box, the titan pros engine oil is fairly red in colour. It spits when stood still aswell

Definitely came from the exhaust then?

I was incorrect haha, is what was on there before I put the turbonetics om there haha, keep referring to it accidently as 88....it is 82mm 64 mm compressor side

This is what I was thinking, my friend said he was fairly certain that it was from the exhaust...the problem is the engine oil is mst define try red aswell haha, so csn't really distinguish... If it's coming out of the breather, will it damage the box? I take it means it is over filled?

Hi guys, I have finished my single from twin supra auto build, and am running 550hp at the crank safely at 23.5psi, at perfect afr with an ecu and tune...the car runs compete perfect and has no flats spots in the map...... BUT...when I was infront of a friend in his car, I put the foot down and splattered his windscreen in engine oil that came out of the exhaust, hence it bein red (titan pro s). I compression tested the engine before the tune and it has 155-158 psi in all 6 cylinders, and the turbo is a brand new t4 88mm turbonetics...so oooo, what could this be guys? Cheers in advance on any feedback

Hi guys, got a bit of a big dilemma Just chaged the fuel pump to a walbro 255, turns out it had one in there before haha, but since that I have been getting horrendous mpg. As in I have a 10 minute drive and it goes down about 3-4 bars on the fuel gauge (without even going near the throttle, just pottering around. I can't smell any fuel, so I have no idea. Any help very appreciated Cheers, Tom

Hi, I am unable to take the banjo bolt off, as it is siezed, what is the best way to get around this? Cheers

Brilliant, thank you for all of the feedback...yes I am just putting the pump in, not changing the reg or anything at the moment. I am putting the 650cc saRd side feeds in when being tuned only going for 500bhp as it's auto...but is enough for me om the road

Hi Guys, Am going through a single conversion from TT to about 500bhp. I have got a walbro 255lph and am wondering, will it run fine after putting it in, or does it have to be tuned straight away? I am getting it fully tuned soon anyway, but can I put the pump in now? Surely the fuel reg will keep everything the same? Cheers, Tom

Have ordered a rebuild kit for the one caliper that has always been 'a bit bindey' hopefully that will sort it...and hopefully I havn't cracked another disc.. Surely if the disc is cracked it will be all of the time? ?

Hahahaha hahahahaha, i'm not going to lie, i had no idea when i wrote it, just a happy accident hahaa

Hiya lads, I have had a leak coming from the diff for a while now. Have ended up just topping it up over and over. I believe it's coming from the left hand side (if your looking from the rear of the car). Can anyone locate the seal for them? As I'm finding it a pain to try and find one. Also is it a hard/long job to do, aka drop the left hand shaft? Cheers

Pretty certain one is binding a bit, as it cracked one of the old discs a few months ago, then I changed the pads and the rear discs...and now this is happening m. One of my mates (mechanic) thinks it could be the bearing between the two parts of the propshaft...sound like a usual thing to go? Cheers