Milo500

The coil packs are a possibility, however I am starting to think it is the speed sensor on the back of the gearbox

Right, so it still has the issue, it still cuts at 5k on 1.5 boost...I am now at a complete loss, please help haha...had allready booked the speed thing at japfest.

So... I have changed the plugs to -8 ones and now it doesn't seem to cut. However it starts making a wastegate chatter noise above 5k ish and doesn't go any higher in the revs. Is odd, as it's on a screamer pipe you can clearly tell the gate is open.

If that was the case how would I know if one was not working correctly at high rpm...the demand is the same (spark wise) at 5kwhether it be at 0.7 bar or 1.5 bar No?

Wow that was a dense question I asked haha, even if they were damaged surely it would miss fire all the time, but hwne just on high boost...(is ok at 0.7bar but cuts any higher than 0.9 bar, is usually 1.5bar

No it doesn't Has one built into the piggyback ecu

I always hear this, what do you mean by the coil pack clips? As they are just pencil coil packs right on top of the plugs (non vvti). And yea low down it fine

The afrs are rich. I have changed the boost controller, it is fine up to to about 0.9 bar, anything higher than that it starts cutting...usually it is at 1.5bar.

Ok man will do

I'm hoping it's not the box, and it feels exactly the same as the last box, so I presume it isn't. It redlines in neutral but is the same problem in every other gear. I have a sneak suspicion that it is the boost controller, as the screen was smashed about 5 months ago around the time when the gearbox did this, but because it was slipping in every gear badly, I presumed this was it's final blow. I have another controller coming and will see how It goes as I cannot change the boost settings on my current greddy profec. Also I will add, the air fuel ratio peaks extremly rich when this happens.

Yea it's because the fuse is out. It does it with it in or out. I had a look and couldn't seem to find anything annoyingly. The pin outs looked the same as my other box and David p confirmed this. It did it with the old box aswell, and as the old box was on its way out I presumed it got worse and that symptom was the outcome....now I've changed the box is still does it

Opinions? Haha

Right, so I have taken two videos, notice how both misfire at the same time

Yea it is originally a gte lump. I have asked the place that tunes it and he said it might be a speed sensor? As it doesn't feel like a misfire, I'd more like the a rev limiter has been put at exactly 5k revs, is 5k Every time. Also with the trac fuse, I heard someone say it damages the auto boxes to remove it? Or is that if you remove it permanently, also if so, why does it damage them? Cheers

Yea it's stock ecu with a greddy piggyback. And no I need to try without a the trac fuse. When In neutral it can rev to the normal limiter when driving or stand still. Is only when in any gear. I'll get a vid tonight

Any guesses?

Yea Is my guess. My old box was very much toast...the fluid was black and stopped wanting to go into gear. The new one has 40k on it from a stock aristo, shimmed by David p, full atf flush, titan 4400, Lucas stop slip etc...so should hopefully be all right for a while. My main problem is this rev limiter feel miss fire...I am completely stumped

Right, so it wasn't the coil packs...I officially have no idea what the weird miss fire at 5k revs is. It feels like the stock rev limiter, but at 5m revs... Need advice please

I'm currently not using a thermostat, can you link me or tell me what brand a good inline one would be? I have fitted a gearbox temp gauge etc so i can now see when it is warm/too warm. How much torque/power were you using each time you killed a box? As this is only my second at 474hp similar torque.

Also I have read that it's bad for an auto box to delete the trac control, why is This?

Awesome, thank you very much for the response....the misfire is a small problem, I was more concerned about the launching problem...what's the reason for replacement of the fuse after? Is it not the same as just deleting the trac control? And yea I'll only be brake holding it on the drag strip...really don't want to have to change the gearbox again too soon haha. Cheers

Hi, I have just changed my torque converter to a precision 3200 high stall and my old knackered auto box for another one (aristo box shimmed by David p). The car is a Turbonetics single turbo conversion from original twin (jap spec). It has a greddy emange blue piggyback ecu and made 474hp at hudson speed shop on a tune. However I need some advice as I have two problems. One of them is that when everything is warm etc, holding it on the brake and under throttle standing still, the revs go up and down about 1k over and over at around 2.5k-3.5k...which it didn't do before. I need this to work as the reason for the converter is so I can hold it in the brake on the drag strip. The other problem is probably not to do with the gearbox, but any advice is greatly appreciated. When driving normally, the car runs perfect...however when under full throttle It feels like its misfiring above 4.5-5k revs. Do you reckon this is fueling/electrical, or could it be to do with the map? (It was mapped about 8 months ago and ran fine before). It had this issue just before I changed the gearbox. Many thanks for any advice/solutions.

Very interested

Hi, I have bought an na 5 speed that has been stood for 4 years and got it through an not etc etc after doing the relevant bits. However it sometimes idles at around 300-500 rpm and sometimes cuts out...where as it usually idles at around 700-900 like my turbo. What could be causing this bearing in mind it has been stood for a while? As it is intermittent. The other issue along side this is it feels like it has some sort of light misfire top end (over 5k rpm) ... which is usually all the time. New parts are as follows regarding ignition...ht leads, plugs, battery etc It also has fresh v power and fuel filter Any help appreciated, Cheers, Tom

Cheers, I have bought a pi3200 off of a guy on here, and am hopefully going to be having David p shim it etc so ut can hold some more torque than stock. The converter should lock up on the road, but wondering if it will be enough stall to make a big difference om the track...what is the stall of the stock converter?