Milo500

Hi guys... So I just had an mot...and I had previously had some bubbling rust on the front drivers side side skirt (stock looking oem, with no aftermarket skirt)... Once I was home I realised that the mot place has poked two fairly big holes into where the bubbling was (both about a £2 coin size). My problem is, where do I go from here, as I always thought that the skirt could just be unbolted all these years...until I have now realised that it is the sill and is part of the frame...do I weld it and put a skirt on it...Or replace the whole thing, what is the best option, (the inner sill is in good condition)

I have another issue... The car is a single turbo auto. It has been running perfectly for a couple of years on the setup it currently has...however, after changing the gearbox etc (to sort another problem), it has developed a weird noise and is down on power. On boost it sounds like it is "fluttering" (surging) ... Not to a huge extent, but to the point where you can hear it when watching me going down the strip at Santa pod (outside the car), and is definitely down on power to probs around 400 at the crank, from 500. It has no blow off valve anymore and has no boost leaks. Any guesses?

ANSWER....THE PROBLEM IS SOLVED If you buy new coil packs, it doesn't mean all of them work haha, I mixed and matched 5/6 new could and 1/6 from my old set. That was one part of the problem. Anyone who has this issue in the future, make sure to strip your coil pack wiring right down to the wires...over time the heat cracks all the insulation for the packs, making them etc against each other...insulation tape each wire separately and 're heat insulate as best ad possible. This was the other half to the fix of my issue.

It is still the original fuel pressure reg, and when the missfire happens it runs 10.1-10.8 afr rich.

Quick update. I have checked the cam position and throttle position sensors, and they all check out. I have tried it without the 3 bar map sensor for the emanage, and nothing has changed. Everything hasn't been changed since I have had It running perfectly...so things like the crank sensor being wired incorrectly etc can't be the reason as it is still probably the original, or if it was replaced, it was by a previous owner atlesst 4 years ago

So I had a profec before the screen got smashed, so have replaced it with an LD Performance controller...as I also thought it was the boost controller limiter...however it sounds very different to the limiter/missfire I have...when the controller hits the limiter,it sounds like a rush off air being pushed out for a second.

I totally agree, I am used to old school tuning when I had my old Capri/beetle/Herald/land rovers...even though I am a bit of a computer nerd, I am not so good with ecu's compared to carbs etc. I have an aem wideband, and when on the dyno the gas sensor for the dyno showed very accurate results compared to my wideband. So when I say it's running rich I mean on my exhaust sensor/wideband. The pump is definitely on the list, it's fairly new, but could be on it's way out. But if it was that (running out of fuel/pressure) wouldn't it run lean? With the coils, I have changed between my new ones and old ones, and it is the same with both of them. I have taken the ecu apart...there are no signs of corrosion or a leaking component.

Ohh haha, yea I know that, I have done all of the above. I'm more used to old school tuning compared to ecu's

That's the thing Chris, it throws no codes up at all, and presents nothing when plugged in, otherwise I would be all over it haha

I do have an aem afr gauge/sensor... it riches out when the missfire happens... usually around 10.8 - - - Updated - - - I changed the pump about a year ago, and it was £98 from walbro...and if it riches out when the missfire happens, could it still be the pump?

Yea I what I thought, isn't so much like in the video now, it does actually go past 4.5k, but does the same limiter/missfire, and does it all the way till red line. How would I go about checking the stock ecu?

Good point, is there a stock overboost limiter somewhere in the ecu? Or something that will start shitting itself whenever you go over 1.2bar? As it was at 1.5bar for a couple of years and didn't have the issue. Cheers

Ahh ok thank you. As my tuner is 4 hours away we are planning on him talking me through what to do etc and sending the software...as all I need to know is what laptop software is 32bit, the software and what data cable it is

How do you go about data logging a emanage blue? (Not ultimate) Chirst, how did it lose the drivers?

Hi guys, I am very very desperate with this now haha. I have posted a couple of times on the Facebook group, but the thread ends up dieing and I don't get too far. My car is a originally twin turbo auto. I have single converted it (Turbonetics tnx) making 485hp. The spec in a nutshell as follows: Sard side feed 800cc injectors Walbro 255 pump Greddy emanage blue piggyback ecu (3 bar map sensor) New coil packs New coil pack connectors New plugs (have tried -7 and -8 copper ngks) Fmic Decat straight through exhaust Stock motor internals Stock intake Stock fuel reg 3200rpm stall precision converter Totota aristo (40k miles) gearbox, shimmed by David P The problem has been around before I changed the gearbox and prior to that it was tuned and ran perfectly for a couple of years. The problem is when on any boost above 1.2 bar it starts to missfire...at least that is how it feels. Link to video below: It drives perfectly when driving off boost and anything under 1.2 bar. It's slightly better now than how it is in the video as it actually revs to red line slowly, but still makes the same missfire all the way up. I need HELP desperately, as the tuner doesn't know what it is yet either...I have had the problem for 7 months and been changing parts to try and find the problem. I have tested for boost leaks, one was found and sorted. Changed the spark plugs and coil packs quite alot of times. The ecu checks out fine, as it was plugged in and adjusted slightly on the dyno. Please anyone tell me what you think it sounds like, as I am at a complete loss.

Still unsolved

Fair enough, I only changed them as it is what it says in the supra spark plug thread

Yea, that is what I have done haha, I had -7 in there before, and have changed to the copper -8 ngk....so isn't that unfortunately:(

I have now changed in new coil packs and wired new connectors. It now revs past 5k all the way up to red line and changes gear etc, but is like it's got a boost leak. I found one but still feels like there might be another, but it feels like a miss fire. Drives fautlesley on anything under full throttle though. So the packs or connectors were part of the problem...but it still misses on full throttle. It's now running 1.5 bar again, not 0.6, however, it defimeylu isn't making around the 500 mark, feel more like 350, so I think it has to be a boost leak.

Yea the speedometer works perfectly - - - Updated - - - I have not, the coil packs and clips are the things I haven't done yet. I do plan on doing that asap, but it rev limits perfectly at 4.9k every time, would be weird if it misfired from the coil packs at the exact same point every time?

Ahh ok, in that case, can the sensor go bad and cause this sort of issue? If not then I will just sort this issue and will swap the gears in the future as I still have the tt box

Ahh ok thanks...if it did it right after I changed the box then that would be a good shout, however it started randomly doing it about am inch before the gearbox change

Thanks, do you know what the common reasons are for the ecu thinking it is in park/neutral? I presume this has happened to people. Just to add to the info list...the car doesn't bring up any codes and there is no dash lights saying anything is wrong.

Hi David. I have read that, and 're read it again to make sure I didn't miss anything. The aristo box I bought didn't come with one of the speed sensors (on the right hand side of the box when looking at the tail shaft end). So I had to take it out of the old tt box. As it is now doing the same thing it was doing before I changed the box, is what is making me think that it could be that speed sensor, as it is the only part I took from the old box

I have done everything people have suggested bar the coil packs...that is because I have not got round to getting a set to borrow yet. And yes as I have gone from a tt box to an aristo box, a speed sensor could be part of the problem?