Milo500

The thing is, I have always done everything parts wise on cars, would happily rebuild the engine and box, but to be honest, I don't want to go near the ecu and mess it up as I havn't done it before...I'm not even sure how much of a task it is...I need to try and find a tuner near me that will do the car first haha, as its hard to find anyone... The chances are I will go for the aem one that you have iirc? If so how could you go about sending me the Base map buddy? Cheers

So you reckon get the ecu Base mapped for the 440 and the put the 650s in afterwards? If that works it sounds like a good shout... I won't ever be going about 550, so 600 as a limit is ok, as long as this doesn't strain the pump? Also I was going to get the walbro 400lph, but at the mo I have a Kemso pump...are they a crappy brand? Cheers

I'm going to do it all there...except the fuel pump, as surely that won't make a difference? Also with the adjustable fuel pressure regulator... Is 350lph enough for 500-550bhp? Or do I need a 400lph?

I know it depends on the tuner/mapper but what piggyback ecu is good for the money... not looking to spend a fortune but not a greddy emanage (have herd horror stories) and where can get hold of the correct one with the correct wiring?

That's pretty much what i needed to hear haha, would it be ok for a short drive when all of it is done bar the ecu and mapping? as i will do the injectors etc. myself and is around a half hour drive to the tuning place that i am going to?

I take it the ideal way to do it is to do it all at the same time? The thing is i do pretty much all of the work on the car myself, apart from obviously the ecu install and map, meaning i don't want to have to pay for someone else to do it all for me when i can d the pump, turbo and injectors myself :/ ... don't really know what the best option is

I was thinking this, i will be getting an aem fic8 piggyback, however will all of this need to go in at the same point? meaning i can't put the injectors and pump in before i put the ecu in...but then surely i can't put the ecu in and map it without the injectors or pump in?

Hi, Im going through a single conversion from a standard twin auto "94 going for around 500bhp. it has a cheap ebay turbo on it at the moment (from the last owner), so im litterally never boosting at all so i don't scrap it . I've had a turbo specced and custom ordered from Turbonetics The question is, i have the new 650cc side feed injectors and 350lpr fuel pump sat waiting, can i put them on now without a fuel reg? and still run the car? It has the pulsation dampner bypassed allready. cheers, tom

UPDATE: Although whoever bypassed it didn't put a fuel reg on it, could someone link a decent fuel reg...cheers

All of it is going in the bin haha, am just figuring out what exactr parts i need. I was looking at 650cc top feed injectors, however why not have 800cc side feed, as the pulsation dampener has allready been bypassed. as im not going to silly power why shouldn't i have side feed. DO i need top feed?

I have allready had it apart... Tis is pretty much the kit haha http://www.speedyracer.com/turbokit/1993-1994-1995-1996-1997-1998-Toyota-2JZGTE-Supra-Turbo-kit-w-T4-Turbo-Upgrate absaloutly terrible haha "EMUSA"

Thanks for the reply guys much appreciated )))) Im planning on going AEM piggyback of some sort, is a case of what the tuner i find knows best i guess. as around where i live there is no one that will touch a turbo supra haha, or my friends s13 haha. In the way of a turbo, what is best for making that amount of power (500ish) ? as in size wise. as surely there no point wacking some 90mm on there. Im selling my capri so yes there are funds available, but not too extravagant, looking at about 2k ish to throw at the car i was looking at a new garrett GTW3684R for about 1k, is that too big, as ideally i want it to make 500bhp, but not lag like hell haha i will be ordering top feed bosch injectors and rail etc, and will get a reg. Theres allready an external waste gate and screamer. In the way of the fuel pump, the one i have ordered says that it is rated to 700bhp at 340lpr :L is that true, or not believable haha Whats the reason for the 2 trans coolers...does the auto really get that hot at that power? Cheers guys you're great

Volk Rays SF challenge 19"

Hi everyone /vbb/images/smilies/bbcode_grin.gif /vbb/images/smilies/bbcode_grin.gif I have a single turbo converted (originally twin GTE) Auto 1995 supra. It has been converted to an unknown brand 70mm t4 turbo but the person before me didn't do any of the supporting mods, they just bolted a single on. I have so far added a greddy profec BC and GReddy BOV, Greddy Fmic, HKS FCD, however am looking for advice from someone that has carried out a single conversion before, and am asking if someone (for my current build) would advise a parts list for me. As far as the ecu stepup, it is currently standard and am looking at and AEM FIC 6 or 8 or a greddy emanage as opposed to a full stand alone. http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/aem-2515.html I have already bought a 340lpr fuel pump, but it has stock injectors/fuel rail/Fuel pressure reg etc. Think of it as stock but with a 70mm on it [sAD][/sAD] . If someone could be awesome and give a list of not necessarily brands, but needed parts they would be a STAR [GRIN][/GRIN] As it's and auto im only planning to go to around 450-500bhp Cheers, Tom

Im very very very new this forum, how do i go about finding his for sales on here and for the time being im keeping it under 500 till i can afford the supporting mods. Greddy e manage is around 220 shipped. I will definately be going for the piggyback, im 19 not broke but then not made of money haha, can't just go and ask mummy and daddy like most people my age do haha. If you could send me the base maps you will be an absaloute hero :) are the base maps dependent on the piggyback ecu (brand wise)

Hi, Will be ordering a walbro fp and a greddy emanage piggyback for the time being I don't see how larger injectors are needed when im not running anywhere near the power that max out the stock injectors, won't be going anywhere above 450 because of the trans anyway. Thanks for the help guys but when people say don't drive it at all, isn't what IanC correct? Surely the standard map will be running more than enough fuel down the bottom end of the rev range to drive normally with no boost? Im not trying to go against what people have said, as im very appreciative of the sound advice, but at the moment this car is my daily as my capri is off the road. If if not spooling the turbo at all, is it nkt safe to drive?

Just did an old school check of checking the spark plugs (as i don't have a wideband) just to see what is going on, and annoyingly all 6 plugs look completely perfect, no white residue on the electrode :/ so I'm not sure. I know it's supposed to be running stupidly lean.

Im not driving it on 16psi, that was just to get the figure to see how low it was running once. When driving it im not boosting it at all. How do you go about "disabling" the boost? As i've allready bottomed out the boost controller

Im pretty sure i've got a stock j spec fueling system, i think the guy who had it before me was a bit of a doughnut and did the single turbo conversion and did nothing with fueling, had no boost controller, blocked off the wastgate hole (with no waste gate) no fuel cut defender etc etc. (Suprised he didn't ruin a 40,000 mile 2j) It now has a boost controller, proper wg setup, fcd is in, but has stock ecu's and i suspect stock fuel. I have bottomed out the greddy profec bc and is running 16 psi at a minium under full throttle...i never put my foot down due to obvious reasons, just once to get that reading earlier. Driving the car normally without booting it should be fine to drive right? It doesn't have a wideband, but i had a narrow afr gauge lying around, and just wired it in to get the basic, lean, normal, or rich reading...ofcourse it bounces all over the place on idle i know, but under full throttle it reads rich with no jumping to normal or lean...i know i don't know by how much, but is definitely reading rich

Thats not what i was hoping for haha, heard standalone ecu's are around the 3k mark. If i ran the equivilent to what would be safe to run on the stock turbo's at bpu, or a slightly less, surely the stock fuel can keep up? Im just guessing though you guys are the pros. Is just a cheap garrett t4 ar/70

Hi buddy, This is what i was thinking, how do i got about finding how much mine flows, is just a single ar/70. After the fuel cut defender goes in this afternoon, roughly what would you think is safe so it doesn't lean out (presure wise so i can set my boost controller to limit it)...pretty sure it's a stock fuel system. Cheers

Hi guys, I have a 1995 single turbo converted originally tt supra. I have installed a greddy profec bc and will be putting on the hks fcd, but it has the stock ecu at the moment. What is a safe amount of boost to run without changing the fueling/ecu? Cheers, Tom

Brillant, thank you so much for your help :) :)

Hi I currently have volk c-ultra 17" wheels on my mk4 with 265/40 back and 235/45 front tyres on there at the moment. The problem is, i have bought some new volk sf-challenges in 19" 9.5 back and 8.5 front with both et+38 ...but i have no idea about getting the right size tyres for the 19's...what would be a good tyre size for the new wheels? The supra is on the standard bilstein springs at the moment, but will be changed to coilovers eventually and be a bit lower. The old volks fitted the arches with room to spare, but were fairly close to the arch width ways when going over big bumps on the road. It currently has spacers on the old wheels but will be removed when the 19's go on. I don't really want much/any stretch or camber as cops are teally hammering down on it in my area, so what would you guys suggest? Cheers

Thanks for all the advice guys