Milo500

Yea I agree haha, however I don't drive it every day now, and if it's going to cost me 1-2k to put a good tc or auto box build in it, it might just be worth spending the same/bit more and making it manual...however it depends what the problem is to start with tbf

Hi guys, I know there are alot of threads about manual converting, however this is slightly different. So the car is running 500, gte engine and single converted. The auto box has two large oil coolers, and has never missed a beat...until now (I think). When on hi boost it feels like the tc is slipping (almost feels like a clutch slip) but then it stops slipping for about half a second and then slips again, over and over...when driving normally it's perfect to drive as always and on low boost its not as bad as hi boost. Now does this sound like the box, the converter, or even the diff? Or does it sound like it needs the box filter and fluid changing? If it turns out the box or converter is knackered, then what shall be done? This is where I am asking for opinions. Do I get a better tc possibly high stall. Build the box. Manual convert it, not a getrag supra 6 speed (I'm not rich haha). M3 320 box, cheaper bmw box, 350z box? I have nothing against autos, and don'y mind people always being like...ohh it's an auto supra, or when are you manual converting it. Just looking at the best option. What do people recommned and what is the cheapest, as I will be doing all the work myself. Looking to do it, not on the cheap, but not looking at spending like 5k Thanks guys.

Hi guys, So I have the most annoying problem I have ever encountered with a car...and if anyone can help with ideas/solutions, I will be extremely happy. So it started a couple of months ago, whereby the the car would run as normal until turned off, and started again when warm. It would then run on 5 cylinders. I found out that it was the injector connectors, and have re wired all 6 of them. Since then nothing changed, and have found out that the no.3 cylinder connector requires pushing down when restarted and then begins running on all 6 again. I thought that it could just be a loose or dodgey connector, so re wired another new one in...nothing changed. This is the current situation, whereby I am having to pushing/wiggle around the no.3 connector until it runs on all 6 after being run and turned off (then re started once warm). Any help will be very appreciated as this is driving me absaloutly mad. The car has a stock side feed rail with 800cc sard injectors Thanks, Tom

? Thanks, Tom

Hi mate, Yea I'm well aware his is a twin, after realising he battered my time haha. I know what you mean by the nos idea, as a 50 shot won't take me up to what the equivalent power I would be at 3800 ish off the line. And I'm not sure how much I would want to run as I don't want to fry the motor. The other thing is I like the idea of it being mechanical, and not having to refill bottles of spray (if that makes any sense) ... why I would prefer a turbod car over a straight nitrous car. I don't mind it being tricky to drive on the street, as long as it doesn't drastically affect mpg, and increase the box tempreture loads...as the last thing I want to do is be driving down the motorway at like 3k with a 3800 stall and overheat the box, correct me if I'm wrong that it would be slipping under 3800? I should have asked for saq take me for a little drive in the car park at pod haha, as I know no one with a high stall, everyone round here with a supra is either na or stock twins. With regards to the et streets...I know they are legal, however are they quite thin? Is it still worth running normal tyres on the road and is there any obvious differences between running them compared to street tyes. Also is it easier/cheaper to get tyres for the 15" or 16", or does it not make a difference? As I have found some 15" weld racing in 114.3 for a supra. Also where can I look to look at buying this stuff haha? Cheers

Hi mate, Was good talking man, just need opinioms and places I can buy the converter from, as I'm not exactly minted haha, some people on here have wayyyy more money to throw at their cars than I do. The other thing is where to buy the et streets and what size will fit under the stok rear arches. Cheers, Tom

Hi guys, So I have recently just got back from santa pod, and realised (quote a while ago) that my times are held back considerably due to my stock auto box and converter. The car is a single converted from twin at 484 at the crank (but tbf that was at really high inlet temps after being on the dyno for 3 hours straight). I managed to do a 13.09 at 117, however due to not being able to launch it well due to not being able to hold it on boost at the line, the time is massively held back. So I was thinking I had 3 options...a rev limiter (bee r type of thing...but not a bee r), a bit of spray to just get off the line, or a high stall torque converter. After messaging with Chris bailey for a bit he said that high stalls work well, but drive badly on the street, which for me is a bit annoying as I drive the car on the road quite alot. I'm looking for people that have experienced a high stall to give me some advice as I have never in been in a supra with anything me than a stock converter/box. (Mine does have two very big oil coolers, apart from that everything about the box is stock. I was looking at a precision 3600/3800 (numbers might be off, apologies haha). Do you need to do anything for cursing on motorways etc after fitting one? As surely cruising below 3800rpm is the equivalent of slipping the clutch? Also when it comes to something like Mt et street tyres, what sizes fit unDee the stock rear arches? Am happy to go for 15" or 16" rim diameter... Cheers guys

That's the idea I'm going for haha! Just want to figure a way I can attach roof bars...the spiller will be easy

Cheers for the replys Yea European, but will probably be a few weeks, so wanted to makeep sure I had enough room The trailer idea is ok, but like you said you can't have as much legal "fun" haha... Was since I saw Jon Olson many cars that had terrible luggage space (make supras look like a freight train) with a roof box and thought it looked quite cool and practical.

Yea I presumed that tow bars are more common, do you know of any sites that sell the kits or are the custom made? Had know idea about the oem roof bars, pretty cool...suprised no company hasn't re-manufactured the design.

Hi, This is by far the most random question I have ever asked, however... I plan on going on a long road trip, but lack the space to carry luggage (as mk4's are so practical haha). I have looked over the Internet but can't seem to find anything. Is there and kits that actually fits to the odd roof line of a mkiv? If not anyone know of anyone that has fitted a tow bar? Thanks, Try not to abuse too much fr that he question haha.

The pump has been changed for a new one and is still proceeding to have the same symptoms, so would that rule it out? Could it be the fuel pressure regulator? Or would it do it all the time if it was that? I can't see or smell fuel, so don't think it's leaking. It's only a piggyback greddy emanage as it's only running just under 500 at the crank, the setup is very simple sith the stock plenum, rail etc...so the ecu doesn't have data logging unfortunately. It has a walbro 255lph pump Sard side feed 800cc injectors Other than that and the emanage piggyback that's the fuel system I am running with. With the pressure gauge, as the system is braided line, should I make up an adaptor to fit before the filter? If so that should be ok, just not sure where the buy the gauge on its own that won't piss fuel everywhere haha. Thanks again

I am not sure as it is a stock rail and stock reg, however it is single converted and tuned, but been running well for the past year... On start up its the same as it always has been, is only ever once it's been driven and turned off and turned on again...before I changed the pump it was doing it all the time, but now just after it has been driven.

So I have changed the pump, changed the filter and it still does the bad leaning out... It starts and drives perfectly, but once you turn it off and don't leave it over night upon start up to will run lean and very lumpy, on the as we are looking at 16 to 1... after a few minutes it usually sorts itself out, but not always. What else can it be? Does it sound like the reg? - - - Updated - - - So I have changed the pump, changed the filter and it still does the bad leaning out... It starts and drives perfectly, but once you turn it off and don't leave it over night upon start up to will run lean and very lumpy, on the as we are looking at 16 to 1... after a few minutes it usually sorts itself out, but not always. What else can it be? Does it sound like the reg?

Is what I wanted to hear to be honest haha, as I don't fancy going to buy a new set of injectors, wiring or a new pump when all of it is fairly new...will checking the plugs and packs first off

Hi, Yea I have a walbro 255lph pump in there at the moment and is undef a year old - - - Updated - - - Is what I wanted to hear to be honest haha, as I don't fancy going to buy a new set of injectors, wiring or a new pump when all of it is fairly new...will checking the plugs and packs first off

Yea, I don't mind changing the pump again, just don't want to replace loads of things in succession to find out that it's something else, as I have changed most of the parts on it for new replacements anyway and all has worked well till now...and no I don't have pressure login on the ecu Jist wanted to see if anyone would jump out saying that they have either had the issue before and know what it is, or if anyone knows straight off the bat what it could be

HI guys, So I have had an intermitent issue whereby the car would be running fine (mkiv gte to single conversion auto) and then start to run rough, similar to how a misfiring engine would sound, however as soon as it happens the afrs jump straight to the max at 17-1 upwards, so is leaning out horrendously...this happend for about 10 seconds until it sorted it self out...I then drove it a couple of times and it was fine...however it started doing It again on start up and wouldn't stop, I suspected a blocked fuel filter so changed it, it was then fine for about 4 miles and then then started doing it again, but would cut in and out of normal running and what I think is fuel starving (the pump is new)... The car on the whole is very reliable and this is the first running issue is have had with it for about 2 years...when it first started doing it I had about 2 bars of fuel and then did it again after a fuel fill up and was about 1 or 2 bars from the bottom, however I have run the car in the past way lower on fuel supply and never reacted like this, and nothing has changed in the way of fueling. It has stopped doing it now, but don't want to be out far away if it does it again...just wanted to know people's guesses to what it could be...and please don't just say the tanks empty hahaha. Cheers in advance

Damn, 4k baring in mind a decent box is under a grand to buy...Cheers though, do you know the name of the firm? Can then see what parts they use and will buy them myself

Hi guys, I'm thinking similar posts may have bee put up, but maybe not about the gearbor I'm asking about. I have a 1995 mk4 originally a gte auto, I have now single converted it and always wanted to go manual, but at the cost of a v160 I never thought it was worth it, imo. However after looking at someone's build, they have used an e46 m3 6 speed, and they are ea silly available for around £500-£800. So my question is, how much would it cost in parts (as I would do it myself) for the conversion, start to finish? The car is running around 550 at the moment (at the crank) but would like to go higher, although I am not sure how much the e46 getrag wilL go up to before starting to deteriate. Thanks, and like I said, if there's a similar post that will answer this, please link me Cheers, Tom

Thanks guys! To be fair everytime I tried this I must of had it in overdrive. And it always kicked down through it... I re-tried it with over drive off, and in manu in 3rd and it won't kickdown hence can be dyno'd. Thanks

Hi guys, Have read through numerous threads for this, but want a definate answer from someone that has DONE IT/HAS an auto. As I have asked before and usually get people just saying, "put it in manu mode"....but if low down in the revs and in manu mode in "d", then you floor it...it still kicks down...making it unacurate on the dyno. The car is a single converted originally twin, around 400-550 ish...but want a definate number on it. Is there any way to make it not kick down? Will appreciate anyone that can respond to this with FACTS, not guesses, or aggro saying "well you obviously do this etc etc etc". Cheers, Tom

I have paid! Please may you add me to the paid list

Hi guys, Quick question...I know there are many threads on this, but none have a factual answer. I am looking at removing the toyota badges from my mkiv, but I have heard some say that they are held in by pins and glue, meaning holes will be left when debadging it, but I have also heard that it is just glue meaning there won't be holes. Can some clear this up with 100% fact before I do it? Haha as I don't want to do it and end up with holes. Cheers guys