msupra1

So I've decided to stay with the factory intake. Any suggestions on what can be done to better improve it? I will start off by shaving the throttle body for a cleaner look, get rid of the unneeded components. what about porting work?

Yes honestly I am doing it mostly for looks. Just love the way it looks. If it's adding significantly more lag then I wouldn't go that route.

500rpm of spool is a lot! See that's what I'm afraid of. I am thinking to maybe stick with the stock intake and clean it up by shaving the throttle body clean and removing anything from it that's not necessary.

Just wanted to bump this thread and see if anyone else have any experiences from upgrading their intake manifold or have knowledge on it Again from my understanding there should be some 'minor' low end losses but hoping this wont affect the way the turbo spools. Getting ready to buy one but don't want to be disappointed with the affects on the low end (if it happen to be bad)

A strong automotive sealant bond will do the trick. It Is a hassle but I guess. The body shop will sort it for me.

I received my ridox front arches today. Start playing around with the fitment to make sure I am happy with them before I ditch OEM. The problem is it doesn't have headlight brackets. Those who run fiberglass front fenders from Grams what was your solution? I cannot even install the headlight since the left side has nothing to grab onto.

I have several grams styling pieces arriving next week. They mentioned the original Ridox front wings fenders didn't fit good, and their mold has improved corrects for fitment.

Just looking for real world comparisons. So anyone who put one on, I want to know your impressions... if it added lag and such.

I am making 900bhp through a BW 66mm turbo. 10:1 compression, pretty responsive setup I would say. Doing a couple changes to my setup, and one of the things I'd love to add is an aftermarket intake manifold. I just love the way they look and hoping to gain some more power with one. I am looking into something such as Greddy. Do they add any additional lag? I've read that as long as its not a cheap ebay manifold and a quality piece, it should only have positives to this mod? One thing I am trying to avoid is adding additional lag. I get full boost around 4400rpm and redline is 8500. Love the current power band. Cheers

Regardless of the cost, it will be done proper. Once the motor is apart we'll see how things are looking. The motor will be fully stripped and machine shop will do a full cleaning of the block and whatever is required. That previous photo I attached is actually inaccurate. That was dirt/gravel in the oil pan. The shavings are much more fine. Almost the eye cant see it, very fine. The only larger pieces of metal that we could find was on the magnetic drain plug. Here is what I purchased, CP pistons with upgraded wrist pins BrianCrower HD rods ARP main studs Titan oil pump head gasket valve cover gasket kit rear main seal and will most likely also need new oil cooler. anything else like bearings can be had locally. Shooting for 900bhp now. My setup can make it no problem on E85.

This is what we are thinking. Well I took the chance, put in new oil, drove it around a bit and flushed it. The magnetic drain plug picked up metal shards... bits of metal. I didn't see It with my own eyes first time but this is convincing enough. So it time to strip this motor and get it fully built.

Just generally speaking regarding the power ^ I drive the car hard too so I always have it at the back of my head things may not hold up. So here's a photo. They drained a little bit more oil out the motor. And you can ignore the upper part of the photo as bucket had some gravel in it.. but the shavings are most obvious towards the bottom. The flash and camera makes it pop more than it does in person... but its a very very fine. Just has a glimmer to it under certain lighting. Also I should note. I was running this oil on a new freshly rebuilt turbo, and it had a new oil feed line. The cam covers were also off for a rebuild. Any possibility of any of that having an affect on it? I'm putting new oil into the motor, drive it around lightly for a day, and rain the oil and see if the shavings are still coming up. If they are will move forward with building the bottom.

That's what the shop told me pretty much in brief. I will feel more guilty to leave it as is and cause further damage. So I think I'm out of luck and just have to get it done once and for all now. My head has all brand new gaskets, seals, apr head studs, any hardware, and new cams/springs and retainers... so my head has less than 5000km on it... it was machined as well.

700bhp on the stock bottom end is peanuts. I thought the general guide for the 2JZ is to keep the torque at or under the 600wtq range. To the wheels I wasn't even making 500wtq. I'll be talking to them later today in person. I just found this news out not too long ago so I don't have full details. I just happened to install the magnetic drain plug too.

It's a 2JZ-GTE with 140k KMs (87k miles)

So the Supra was parked for 5 months in the off-season, it had quite a bit of sludge in the oil as a result of not driving it, just starting it up to move around. So changed the oil to regular oil, ran it for like 30km, and then flushed it out again and put in good oil. That oil maybe had 200km on it. So my mechanic / engine builder was flushing it today again and said there is a lot of metal shavings in the oil. Oil was being flushed again to take care of an oil pan leak. We were prepping to throw the car on the dyno next week. It was making about 700bhp, or a little under for the past year. The new tune was going to see about 850bhp. There is a lot of money into the car, everything is done to the head and whatnot. The only thing that remains unopened is the stock bottom end with pistons/rods. Should I be worried because I am. I was planning to eventually build the bottom end but in no rush as I didn't want to spend that money this year. Even if I build it, I won't be pushing it past 850bhp. That's more than enough for what I'm doing with the car.

I went with this set, I can report back if anyone is interested... It's basically a solid mount but not in metal. https://serialnine.com/products/jza80/chassis/supra-differential-bushing-kit

Also, I've experienced bad wheel hop issues. Brand new OEM ones should help with that?

I found this, which seems to fall in between OEM and a Solid mount. http://www.shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=236

My rear differential bushings are cracked and worn out, and the fronts look okay and don't seem to have any play to them. I was just wondering can I install SOLID rear differential mounts while retaining the OEM front diff mounts, or is it suggested it's installed as a full set if going with solid mounts? From some reading the solid rear diff mounts make things louder and more 'harsh'. In what way would it make the car drive more harsh? My suspension setup is relatively soft, will it effect the ride stiffness? Cheers

The turbo oil line kit I purchased years ago, I wasn't sure on the sizing. I purchased a proper 4an 1/4 inlet line which is the correct one for a billet S366 So there is a few factors why I had these issues.

I wasn't running one but I did purchase an oil temp gauge now. I will perhaps stay with 10w40 or 5w40... and monitor the oil temps and take things from there.

I don't live in the cold part of Canada ..The weather now is averaging above 10c daytime, and is anywhere from 20 to 35c in the summer. The car is not driven in winter. Most start taking their cars out in February and store them in October. I was reading about that too thick of an oil, like 10w60 isn't necessary the best for an unopened stock bottom end.. because it wasn't designed to flow that thick of an oil... but it seems like many are running 40 and 50 weight from my searches. So considering it's not cold but mild and getting warmer... just trying to see if something like a 10w50 would be okay for the bottom end. Or another option may be sticking with 10w40 and get an oil cooler. If I don't have to dish out the money for one, I would prefer not to... but if greatly helps I will probably.

Hi gents. Looking for some advice and help. Long story short, shortly after my tune early 2015, I had my turbo rebuilt. The rebuild shop was claiming oil starvation was the culprit. The car was tuned for 600whp (high 600's bhp). It was running 10w40. So after I got the Borg Warner S366 rebuilt. I ran it for 6 months last year for about 3500 miles before it started shooting blue smoke again. I just got around to getting it rebuilt again. They are now saying the inside of the turbo was fried, the bearings, and had dried up oil on it. They rebuilt it to factory spec + beefed the turbo up to tolerate higher heat this time around. The car at this moment is just had the whole fuel system redone for E85 fuel. The other mods remain the same, such as full 4" dp / exhaust, gsc s1 cams with springs/retainers, greddy 3 row, and all other supporting mods. The bottom end is unopened and stock (87k miles). So i'll see how long the bottom will last me.. but got some other guys here pushing more power then that for years. I'm trying to decide what weight oil is good for around 800bhp. I was thinking 10w50 because the last 10w40 didn't seem to hold up. My only concern is how thick in oil can I really go for stock bottom. And would an oil cooler be a good idea? For the majority, this car is used driving around town and on cruises. Cheers.