np89

Any chance of getting this moved to projects mods?

I don't think its conducive to turn this into a name and shame thread. Really pleased its going down so well! Perhaps a mod could move it to project cars? I think I've embedded the images correctly?

Thanks Sunny!

Boost is at 1.5bar just, so actually less than it was doing before . Thanks for the comments guys, much appreciated!

Correct, however, having been round this car many times, there really is no evidence at all of any remaining damage, only tell tale signs may have been that it was a UK car with a Jap bonnet and aftermarket front bumper :s

As you can see the blow was quite bad and the gasket was quite clearly done! Initially we tried to replace the gasket with an aftermarket option that we had sitting, however, as with most aftermarket gaskets etc, close enough was not good enough and the blow remained. At this point I felt quite bad for the tuner having to re-remove the manifold and replace with Genuine Toyota gaskets as he had spent a lot of time previously removing all the studs, cleaning the head and manifold faces to ensure a good seal. A final issue we had, was fault codes from the factory ECU which included a code 89 for the autobox as it was not getting the correct signal feedback, however, this was rectified swiftly through the use of a specific circuit board and feedback loops for the factory ECU to see all the signals it needed to whilst allowing the Adaptronic to carry on doing its thing. - - - Updated - - - So, issues sorted and all back together, mapping began: Final Figures were 442BHP and 471LB/FT AT THE WHEELS, given the usual 20% or so losses due to the autobox, that brings it to 553BHP and 589LB/FT at the engine, but we all know that figures are one thing but the way it drives on the road is another. I can say that the car drives a million times better than it ever did before, so much smoother and progressive (not that it can’t be suitably aggressive when required ), the autobox handles the changes beautifully thanks to the tuner's persistant and hard work in making sure that despite the Adaptronic being in control that the Auto ECU still received all the signals it needed to, to do its job correctly. - - - Updated - - - And now please enjoy the final spec list and photos of the car! Body Stock UK Body, including front bumper with working headlight washers Plastic OEM Side skirts OEM Style GRP Spats Lexus TTE Split width Rims with centre caps, fully polished (x6) 4500k Xenon Headlight Bulbs UK Glass Headlights Facelift front indicators Rear tinted glass Chassis UK Auto gearbox & large cooled UK differential Eibach Springs on stock UK Dampers Twin External SRD Auto box oil Coolers UK Spec Brakes EBC Yellowstuff pads Engine & Supporting Mods Standard internal UK Spec 2JZ-GTE Momentum Carbon fibre spark Plug Cover AC Removed New Coil packs & Connectors Cruise Control SARD 850cc Injectors Whifbitz Fuel Pulsation Braided Damper removal pipe Braided Oil Lines Garrett GT35R BB Turbo (.70 AR) HKS Manifold & External Wastegate (Fully Heatwrapped in Black) Custom Downpipe and Decats (Fully Heatwrapped in Black) Screamer Pipe Apexi N1 Catback Exhaust Bosch 044 Fuel Pump Bosch Twin Ignitors, running wasted Spark AFM Removed K&N 4.5” Filter & Turbo Inlet Polished Oil Catch Can Whifbitz Aluminium Radiator Whifbitz 4 Row FMIC & Pipework AEM Aquamist Water/Methanol Injection Custom Intake air temp sensors MAC 3 port Boost Solenoid Electronics & Management Adaptronic 440d full standalone ECU (compatible with Android Tablets for live readout) Standard UK Autobox ECU UK Spec Traction control Alpine 10” Subwoofer & Amp Greddy FATT Interior UK Cream Leather interior & Carpet UK 3 Bar Steering Wheel Optional Black fabric headlining Alpine Headunit with full Ipod connection Heated Seats Control Unit for Aquamist mounted in Armrest

Ok, so a while ago, having had my White GZ Auto that I loved (and that was sadly written off, not by me!) and my Gunmetal Facelift NA-TT6 (which was ok, but just not quite right), I decided my Supra journey was far from done and purchased my current Black UK Spec from Matt K on the site. The car had been single turbo from around 2006, believed to have been completed by a well-known Supra tuner in mainland UK and looked like this: After a long lonely drive from Matt’s, I got the car back home to Belfast, where to be honest, it was less than pristine, so I began to clean and clean and clean at it, including some very intensive machine polishing and after a few days, had it looking like this: You may have also noticed that the wheels, like most TTE wheels were chuffed to say the least, so I set about “refurbing “ them by way of a full mirror polish and brake caliper refurb as well as they were less than acceptable: At this point, the car looked reasonably acceptable, however, in my view the car is a UK spec and should look like one and as Toyota intended; call me a purest but I couldn’t have it any other way! So the search began for some very rare UK Spec parts such as headlight washers! I eventually got hold of the required items and “made” a UK Bonnet and bumper , however, my painter was busy so I cruised about like this for a while: The original spec was: GT35r Turbo Apexi AVCR AEM AFR Gauge Greddy FATT Apexi N1 Exhaust Greddy Emanage Blue HKS SSQV However, after a while it became apparent that this set-up was not doing the job it was supposed to be doing. It “ran” the car and that was about it. It stalled at traffic lights due to the AFM and VTA dump valve and the very limited capability of the emange to “alter” the signals going to the factory ECU. The car was very aggressive and not in a good way, the power band was so sharp and short with detonation top end and coming on boost and the autobox did not like it at all. I also later discovered that despite the Apexi AVCR being installed, all it was doing was reading boost, what was actually controlling the boost (at 1.6bar) was a bleed valve…….. I also discovered this little beauty of an oil return that had assumedly been installed by the well-known “Tuner”: At this point enough was enough, the car was not right and it was time to consider options that were going to primarily manage the car properly and secondly be done right and done once with no messing about. The more research I did, I firstly decided that a piggyback was only masking the problem and could never fully compensate for the stock fuel and ignition map setup being manipulated for single turbo application; so that said, standalone was apparently the only way to go. I firstly considered the standard option of Syvecs and with a lot of advice from Lee at SRD, I was nearly sold on it, however the more research I did into it including the considerations of the trip to mainland UK and associated supporting accessories and displays, a £3k idea was turning into like a £7k idea and for me that was too much to pour into the car for what it was. Being limited support wise in Northern Ireland, and having had some experience with various “tuning opportunities” offered, taken and regretted over the years left me with a hard choice. However, long story short, I got chatting to an up and coming young tuner in Northern Ireland At this point after talking things through with this tuner, I decided to go with his speciality,Adaptronic and what’s better, it does everything Syvecs does, including live read-out to your Android or Apple Device/Tablet, with only a few additional sensors required, everything else it needs, the car has! The ECU also allowed the removal of the factory AFM much to my relief as it was a complete melt! The list of upgrades also included new sard 850cc injectors, fuel pulsation damper removal pipe, and a new fuel filter; As well as an AEM water/methanol injection kit. Also fitted was an Innovate lc-1 wideband controller which allows the full Adaptive fuelling control in the Adaptronic ECU. This feature has the ability to self adjust the fuel table to keep everything running at its best even after the car has left the workshop. Work Began on the install including the addition of GM water temp sensor and an Intake air temp sensor to compensate for the removal of the AFM which included the IAT sensor integrated into it. As with most projects we ran into issues, most were overcome without any great issue, however, one that gave a bit of hassle, was an exhaust blow which turned out to be a nightmare to locate, but in the end, it appeared to be coming from the manifold:

A local turbo "specialist" insisted that they are completely different and thw blades etx are different and its not just a matter of swapping them. Am I to assume there is zero truth in this?

Hey guys, Having recently discovered my turbine housing is actually T3, I was wondering is it possible to change the housing to T4 to allow greater flow? Thanks Niall

Sounds like the master cylinder is away, my old RX7 used to do that and it was leaking badly!

I have recently installed a standalone (piggybacked for auto) in my UK Spec Auto which included getting rid of the AFM, however, now, understandably I have codes 24 & 31, both to do with the AFM, is there any way to fool the factory ecu into thinking the afm is still there and not to throw a code?

Ok so as helpful as this thread has become, no one has answered my question lol - will this diff fit??

2 way appears to be the only aftermarket option for auto supras as far as I can see? Though from your response I imagine I am mistaken? Perhaps you could inform me a bit more comprehensively? As I say, my knowledge on the subject is extremely limited.

I have a UK Auto, which obviously has a UK Diff, however, the Kaaz website seems to suggest this diff will fit in AT cars, but I am not sure if that would include the UK one, does anyone know? Sorry I am a bit ignorant when it comes to gears and drivetrain specifics Thanks Niall

Ive never had them map anything for me but I know they deal soley with Link. Richard Bradley uses them religiously for all his machine work and used to get them to map for him before he did it himself so id say they are along the same lines as Richard.

They wont map anything they haven't buiilt

and how does one go about "setting up"a boost gauge?

Thats what I mean, a healthy engine should pass an emissions test without a cat at all, sure all cars in the supra's date range are supposed to be subject to the non cat test anyway so they really shouldnt need them. The only reason Toyota put them there was to make emissions super low, but really they should still be well below the limits without them. Having 1000cc injectors I can understand is a slightly different story, in that case you would just get a mapper to elan it right off on idle but not to the extent that your hydrocarbons climb. Really I'd be asking the mapper to have an exhaust gas analyser on the car when he is doing the idle map to be sure it is right.

You are mapping a car that still has the cats in?? Thats a bit risky in itself running above standard boost with a cat in, well certainly the first cat in, the heat would be insane!! If thats the case a duffed cat could be your issue. The idle map shouldnt really be any different from standard single or twin turbo, unless you've changed your injectors because the engine isnt under any load so there shouldnt really be any need to alter the idle map.

You don't base maps on emissions or power at all, however, it is possible to have a map correctly done to deliver both power and the correct emissions. Although if your emissions are bad that usually means that something is wrong with your engine, a healthy engine should pass an emissions test with no help. Anyway, I know NCT is different from UK MOT with the emissions based on Hydrocarbons etc as opposed to Co like it is in the UK/NI. TDP are apparently very good, Robbie maps the SATS Cosworth drift car and I know Mark Luney personally and he speaks very highly of him. Richard Bradley is also very good, however, if its not a drift car he's not really interested in mapping it. Gavin at GSport is currently doing my standalone big single UK car and while he isn't finished, seems very good so far

I'm not sure you quite understand how mapping works...... Anyway, TDP is probably your closest option, or Richard Bradley in Bradley Motorworks or Gavin in GSport cars for Link based ECUs

Also a BOV will cause the auto to stall if its MAF as in UK and VVTI.......... do you need me to explain the logic or just call you a taxi?.......

Hey guys, just looking for a bit of advice. Getting my UK Single Auto mapped this weekend on a standalone (piggybacked because of the autobox), which I had hoped would facilitate the complete elimination of the need for the MAF, however the mapper who is doing it seems to think that the MAF plays a part in autobox control, however, I am aware that JDM cars didn't have a MAF and still ran the same autobox, so is there a way round this on a UK car to make it read off a MAP signal instead of relying on the MAF? Sorry if that seems a bit conveluded or daft, as I dont fully understand how it works so perhaps someone a bit more knowledgable or tech saavy could fill in the blanks for me? Thanks Niall

You can get a wee rubber wheel that fits in your drill from any motor factors, will remove it the very best - - - Updated - - - just go easy otherwise it will need painted - - - Updated - - - you'll have to let it dry and harden again first tho

is there not a ground on the back of the oem steering wheel for the clocks etc?